About to tackle big project in the head - new faucet and countertops

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noworries

I've searched the archives, and most of the info is a little dated, so I thought I'd ask to see if anybody has anything new to add.

We've got some issues in the head that we need to deal with:
1) The faucet leaks
2) It seems to me that when we mix hot + cold water, we lose pressure.
3) There is no shutoff on the shower head
4) Because the faucet leaks, it has warped the counter top in the head
5) The shower sump pump rocker switch has become unreliable

Faucet replacement options:
1) Replace the grohe with the same unit and add a home depot shutoff ($90)
2) Go with something like this, which would be nicer because it has a mixer instead of 2 valves ($165)
3) I also found this one for $100
4) This one from the forums for $130
5) Or pull the one on the boat off and see what I can find at Home Depot that would work (is getting a kitchen pullout one an issue?  Will it not fit over the sink properly?  Is there clearance in the back corner to move a single mixer handle?)
It looks like all of these would need the $5 home depot shutoff.

Any suggestions from those of you who've done this before?  I'm leaning towards pulling the faucet and just heading to home depot to see if they have something similar.

This was the best thread I could find on replacing the counter top: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5231.0.html
I like the idea of using starboard.  Not sure if there's anything else to add here, but I was considering putting a drain in the back corner in case there's ever water on the countertop again.  I'm guessing it would just drain to the bilge there, versus sloshing around looking for some formica to bubble up.
1991 Catalina 34 Mark 1.5 w/ M35

Stu Jackson

One of Dave's pictures in your link shows the small piece of teak he added to stop water flowing to the port side of the counter.  We did the same thing in 1998.  I wouldn't drill any holes.  I put a very small washcloth there to catch the drips.

We haven't lost any pressure when mixing hot and cold.  We do have to turn the water up a tad, 'cuz the pump is being asked to pump more water when both faucets are open.  Just turn 'em up.  Check your freshwater strainer under your galley sink.

The kitchen faucet you linked to appears to be too big, at least the baseplate.  The Scandvik looks very good with the single lever.  Looks like it'd fit, but check the dimensions.

Here's a link to a picture of the Grohe shutoff, many have reported finding less expensive shutoffs at Home Depot:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4174.0.html  Most of these are not complete shutoffs and leak just a tad, which is good since it keeps a little water flowing to keep it hot, once you set the temperature with the faucets.  A search on "Grohe" has a lot of other items you may already have seen.  Good advice about the thread compatibility.

Captain Al did a writeup of the replacement of his galley countertop in the C34 Tech wiki (and Projects) Galley section, same material as the head countertop.  Your choice of starboard or formica.

We replaced our sump pump switch.  It simply died.  We have a toggle switch with a boot.  Simple to replace from under the head sink area.  Get one at Ace Hardware, toggle or rocker.

Good luck.  
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

noworries

I finally got at the water pump a few days ago.  Was troubleshooting an issue and found the water line to the water heater had fallen off.  My c34 has 2 water filters (maybe 3, there appears to be a small one on the input side of the water pump?  do you regularly replace that one?).  The 2 large filters are identical, one is near the water pump, the other is under the sink in the head.  I was thinking about removing the one under the sink to see if that helped.

Those baseplates on kitchen faucets are typically an option (ie: you don't have to use it), my main concern is if I buy one online and get it down there and find out the spout is too long.

Same with the shutoff--I'm guessing it screws in between the spout and the hose--so that will add some length to the spout won't it?

I thought that piece of teak between the sink and the corner was just to cover that seam, but I guess it would make a good dam--I didn't look at it that way--thx!
1991 Catalina 34 Mark 1.5 w/ M35

Stu Jackson

Before you buy online, most manufacturers have detailed dimensioned drawings of their faucets, need to do some research on the vendor's websites.

Filters are there to protect.  The one in the head seems to be a PO add-on, I don't have one.  Just clean 'em out.  They shouldn't create any significant pressure drop.

Yes, the shutoff goes in between and will add a tad to the assembly.

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Jim Hardesty

Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Stephen Butler

Have you considered corian?  We are replacing our counters and will be using the old corian in the boat.  You can also find scrap pieces at any counter top fabricator.  Just a thought.
Steve & Nancy
Wildflecken II
1990, #1023

noworries

I'd get corian if I could find a cheap source... I just don't see that happening but I guess I can try.
1991 Catalina 34 Mark 1.5 w/ M35

Phil Spicer

Found a piece at a place that recycles home building products. Got enough to do the galley...$6.00... Then the wife wanted it for her new sink & counter this fall when I rebuilt her solar greenhouse. The boat will wait...........I'll keep looking for more
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

Stephen Butler

Fabricators that do granite counter tops also do corian and other synthetic materials.  They always have scrapes of granite, marble, corian, silver stone, etc. after "machining" tops for customers. 
Steve & Nancy
Wildflecken II
1990, #1023

Ron Hill

Guys : Watch out with your "heavy" countertop ideas that you don't ex-asterbate the C34 port side list. 

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Phil Spicer

Good point Ron. I was thinking that corian in the galley may help offset the port side list.
Phil & Marsha,Sandusky Sailing Club. Steamboat is #789,tall/wing-Unv M25XP/Hurth ZF 50 trans.

noworries

I went down to see how hard the faucet was going to be to get out.  It appears that faucet is up in a recessed hole making the nut holding it in a total bitch to get to.  I may just try and get the countertop off instead and deal with it after it's free of the boat.
1991 Catalina 34 Mark 1.5 w/ M35

Ted Pounds

Get a basin-wrench from a hardware store.  That should allow you to get at that nut.  Just a thought, I haven't actually tried it.
Ted Pounds
"Molly Rose"
1987 #447

Ron Hill

no : Those small black items on the water lines are "one way valves"-- not filters.  You'll have to get another brand as those (one ways) are no longer made.

On getting the faucet off the countertop - if you are going to replace the countertop, remove the countertop and then cut the faucet out.
Also you'll find that the head sink is a strange size (smaller than usual sink drain).   You may want to replace it, but  find a new one before throwing out the old one in the dumpster!! 

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Ron Hill on January 08, 2012, 04:51:23 PM
no : Those small black items on the water lines are "one way valves"-- not filters.  You'll have to get another brand as those (one ways) are no longer made.

Pictures of the old and new are included in this thread, one on each page:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4114.0.html
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."