Macerator Failure

bbrooks · August 29, 2011, 09:20:16 PM

One recent Sunday, my wife and I headed down to our boat (1989 Catalina 34 #904) for a day sailing on San Francisco Bay. My nose arrived at the boat a couple of minutes before my wife's did and I got a whiff of that holding tank odor I knew something was wrong. When I opened up the boat the odor was so bad I told my wife to remain on the dock. I checked out the holding tank for a leak, and then noticed that the bilge was full of sewage and it needed a good flush out and cleaning. After pumping out the holding tank we (my wife) decided that we (me) replace the head and all the hoses to the tank. I did replace all hoses except for hoses connected to the macerator as they are so short they could not be leaking. Having the odor all but gone, new head, and new hoses I thought we were in good shape we preceded to hope for better luck the next time we go sailing. Several months later after using the boat and head several times we noticed that same odor coming from the bilge and the bilge was full of sewage again and my wife assured me that I did not know what I doing and I was to replace the holding tank. We were off to pump out the holding tank again and I determined it must be the hoses to and from the macerator as what else could it be (I cannot believe that a tank just starts leaking). I got the hose off from the macerator to the through hull and then I proceeded to remove the macerator and when I removed the last screw holding the macerator to the hull, water (sewage) was flowing out of the macerator and the macerator was coming apart in my hands. I thought the macerator was one part but it turn out that the screws that hold the lower housing to the pump had disintegrated and raw sewage was leaking out the side of the macerator pump when the level got high enough. I removed all the pump parts and hose to the macerator and placed a 1 ½" plastic pipe plug in the tank and a 3/4 plug in the through hull valve the and problem was solved. Someday I will get around to replacing the macerator but for now I will enjoy a leak free tank and no odor.

Peggie Hall · August 30, 2011, 06:46:38 AM

You've just made an excellent case for:

1. Never replace just SOME hoses. If you're gonna replace any hoses, replace ALL the hoses--including the vent line! There is no such thing as a hose that's too short to stink. But even if it doesn't, after about 10 years, hoses become hard and brittle and prone to cracking...and so should be replaced whether they stink or not.

2. Flushing out the tank and ALL the plumbing including the macerator 2-3x/year. Not only does that prevent sludge buildup in the tank, but it also prolongs the life of the macerator pump, especially the impeller. At worst, you'd only have had water in your bilge instead of sewage.

You're almost certain to have some residual odor from your spills...all the bleach etc in the world will NOT get rid of it permanently. But a product called PureAyre http://www.pureayre.com/index.htm will. Put it in a pump garden spray jug (much easier than a trigger sprayer) and coat EVERY surface, nook an cranny in the affected area. Do NOT rinse...just let it dry, with hatches open so that plenty of fresh air can circulate for at least 24 hours. If you still have any odor left, you missed a spot.

noworries · August 30, 2011, 08:21:01 AM

I thought I did a PSA on those evil jabsco macerators, but I can't find the post.

I had mine fail when underway, trying to pump out the full waste tank. If you search around about the jabsco, you will see it's a common problem.

I replaced mine with a Shurflo macerator.

So public service announcement -- CHECK YOUR MACERATOR -- IF IT'S A JABSCO, SOONER OR LATER YOU WILL HAVE A BILGE FULL OF NASTINESS!

Lance Jones · August 30, 2011, 09:00:57 AM

Peggy,
What IS the best way to flush out the holding tank? As a live aboard, that lingers in the back of my mind.

Michael Shaner · August 30, 2011, 02:18:55 PM

We have forgone the macerator all together. We have a Y valve with direct overboard discharge plumbed in before the holding tank for the rare occasion (ok, the one occasion) that we are far enough offshore to discharge overboard legally. The macerator circuit has been re-routed to power the anchor locker wash down pump...but I keep forgetting to re-label it on the panel!

Stu Jackson · August 30, 2011, 04:36:43 PM

That's a really good "solution" - I never understood why some designs run everything thru the tank unnecessarily.

Ron Hill · August 30, 2011, 05:40:57 PM

Guys : The major design flaw that I blame Jerry Douglas for is - not having a cutoff valve between the holding tank drain and the macerator !!!

Peggie Hall · August 30, 2011, 07:01:28 PM

Quote from: Lance Jones on August 30, 2011, 09:00:57 AMPeggy,What IS the best way to flush out the holding tank? As a live aboard, that lingers in the back of my mind.

Two ways to do it:

At a pump out: Pump out the tank. Then put 4-6" of water into the tank VIA THE DECK PUMPOUT FITTING. 'Cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up any sludge and hold it in suspension so it can be pumped out. Pump that out. Repeat...repeat...repeat..til you're pumping out only clean water. If there's a macerator or other pump to dump the tank at sea, put water into the tank one more time...open the thru-hull and use the pump to dump the water...to rinse out the pump and its plumbing.

At sea if you have a washdown pump: Pump out or dump the tank. Then, using the washdown pump, put 4-6" of water into the tank VIA THE DECK PUMPOUT FITTING. 'Cuz that sends the water into the tank at the bottom to stir up any sludge and hold it in suspension so it can be pumped out. Open the thru-hull and turn on the pump...an let it run while you also continue to let the washdown pump put water into the tank. Stop when you see that you're only flushing out clean water.

This should be done at least 2-3 x season, and especially in preparation for winter or other extended layup.

If you have some compulsive need to also CLEAN the the tank (do you also feel a need to clean out the sewer lines at home?), you can fill it completely with water and low suds LIQUID detergent--about a gallon of detergent to 20 gallons of water. Go sailing and tack a lot...enjoy the trail of bubbles out the vent...then THOROUGLY rinse out the tank with plenty of clean water.

scotty · August 30, 2011, 09:17:21 PM

OOhhhhhh, very good sugestion, Peggy!

Lance Jones · August 31, 2011, 03:33:27 AM

Thanks Peggy. Good suggestions. Don't think they'd let me empty into Lanier though...

Peggie Hall · August 31, 2011, 07:17:29 AM

Quote from: Lance Jones on August 31, 2011, 03:33:27 AM
Thanks Peggy. Good suggestions. Don't think they'd let me empty into Lanier though...

You're stuck with the "pumpout, repeat, repeat" method, 'cuz it's illegal even to have a macerator installed or any overboard discharge plumbing connected on Lanier or any other inland lake in GA.

Stephen Butler · August 31, 2011, 03:00:19 PM

Had to add our own experience with a Jabsco pump. It corroded and came apart, flooding the bilge. We spoke with several sailors here and the boatyard staff and learned this was a all too common problem. We currently have a Shurflow and so far, so good. Interestingly, we still have a Jabsco head, which works perfectly and has never been a problem. Just some thoughts.

Indian Falls · September 01, 2011, 04:55:41 PM

This seems like a good opportunity to add my experience on the thread.

I changed ALL my hoses like a good boy. I took my macerator all apart and cleaned it insuring the bolts were good, the gaskets were new, the impeller was ok, the shaft seal was good. Connected it to a battery and a pail of water to test it's operation... awesome.

I installed everything in the boat. Filled the already clean holding tank with water and used the macerator just to test the operation. I did not mention that when I bought the boat if you hit the macerator switch it blew the circuit breaker instantly. So now on my brief clean water test... it instantly blew the breaker.

I surmise that the reason is: the poor conductors involved in delivering current to the macerator from the battery bank. I removed the macerator installed 2 more gaskets... pause.... yep I had to add two when I first assembled it and tested in the bucket.. it would not turn. Too much squeeze on the impeller when all tightened down. That explains why there were no rotary marks on the stainless stator plate when I took it apart the first time. I can only guess what the PO might have done or not done.

Now it will run for about 10 seconds before popping the 30 amp breaker. None the less, it does work, I likely will never use it, I just wanted it in there because that is the way it came from factory.

It either needs larger direct wiring from the battery, or more gaskets, or somebody put the wrong impeller in the thing.

Before y'all start suggesting the motor is no good or the bearings are dry... seized... etc... it works just fine when not on the boat and only pulls about 18amps when sucking a 5 gal bucket dry. But in the boat with all that resistance the voltage drops, the current goes up and we all know the rest.

noworries · September 01, 2011, 07:14:13 PM

Sounds like if it works when you wire directly to a 12V source then the problem is the wiring on the boat.

Peggie Hall · September 01, 2011, 07:26:50 PM

I likely will never use it...

You're at least 700 miles from any water where you CAN use it legally. And while you may someday maybe take the boat to the coast and go cruising, by then any equipment on your boat that's never been used will be way beyond ever using again...'cuz the worst thing you can do to any equipment is, let it sit. So what if it was factory installed...would you keep a factory installed baby butt pink toilet and sink? Or cushions in that wonderful 70s "harvest gold" color? If you could use it, replace it. But since you can't, remove it. It'll be a piece of cake to install a new one one if/when you can ever use it. Meanwhile, you'll be relieved of maintaining at least one y-valve and seacock...and that macerator pump!