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[mark_53]

Dedicated Start Battery
When I fist bought my boat, 1989 MK1, and replaced the batteries with 2 new group 27s, I thought my starting issues would be over.  The engine would start most of the time but from time to time, it just would not start or even click.  Cleaned and tighten all the connections, replaced start button, ignition switch and fuses but still was not reliable 100% of the time.  A big problem with the OEM design is the cable length and number of connections.  Over time, these connection lose continuity along with the voltage drop due to cable length.  I thought I'd solve the problem by carrying a jump starter battery pack which saved me once or twice.  The problem with that is it takes time to set it up.  When your drifting towards a hazard there may not be enough time to set it up.  The answer is a dedicate start battery connected directly to the starter with much shorter cable runs.  There are several ways to accomplish this that can be found on this site.  This upgrade will effectivley double your house bank size if you have the OEM 2 grp 27 house batteries by allowing you to use your house bank without worrying if your engine will start.

[Stu Jackson]

Dedicated Start Battery

A big problem with the OEM design is the cable length and number of connections.  Over time, these connection lose continuity along with the voltage drop due to cable length.

The answer is a dedicate start battery connected directly to the starter with much shorter cable runs.  There are several ways to accomplish this that can be found on this site.  This upgrade will effectively double your house bank size if you have the OEM 2 grp 27 house batteries by allowing you to use your house bank without worrying if your engine will start.

You might be interested in this observation:
 
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8971.msg64907.html#msg64907

You're right about doubling the house bank size by doing this.  Remember, that the original boats were usually delivered with a "two house bank" system.  It is 1980s "technology."

[Breakin Away]

ENGINE SERVICE BULLETINS

YOU'D BE REALLY DUMB TO NOT CHECK THESE

AND THEN ACTUALLY DO THEM

...Also look around the Westerbeke/Universal engine website, here:

http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/InstallationManual.aspx?ID=7

...I clicked the link and it works for me...

The above link is still dead on all of my computers. Could someone else try it to verify whether I'm the only one getting the 404 error message shown below?

The resource cannot be found.

Description: HTTP 404. The resource you are looking for (or one of its dependencies) could have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.  Please review the following URL and make sure that it is spelled correctly.

Requested URL: /Products/InstallationManual.aspx

[KWKloeber]

I noticed the dead link Friday when I posted my Universal engine Service Bulletins on the Wiki, but didn't mention it.  Westerbeke changed its website (to "improve" it?) but not surprisingly Wb mucked it up. 

The SBs that I have are posted here  If anyone sees one I'm missing let me know and I'll modify the post. 
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals   (I OCR'd the PDF so you can search on a keyword.)

The link to the Wb page to the Universal documents is:  http://www.westerbeke.com/universalenginelibrary.htm
Then click on your model (the Service Bulletins are not linked in one location as they were previously.) 

But Wb screwed up the SBs -- the engine link doesn't necessarily show all the SBs for that engine.  For instance, the M25 shows only a four SBs (only FOUR?? no mention of an exploding alternator bracket, for example.)  Another example, the SB for the tranny linkage is on the A4 page, not the M25 page, but it is on the XP page. 

JTSO, but typical for Wb, but let's make sure we have a monopoly on an inferior seawater pump.

Gee I wonder why CTY dumped Universal?

-kk

[Kyle Ewing]

SCUPPER HOSES!  Here's one of my scupper hoses, original equipment on my 1990.  Both hoses were cracked and leaking where connected to the cockpit drain.  Several others on this board reported the same issue.  Please make sure you inspect and replace as needed.  A leaking hose can fill the bilge!

[Stu Jackson]

Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Check Ball Valve


https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10681.0.html

While not an upgrade, it will certainly help if you have fuel problems.

[jonathanc34]

Inspect and replace your fuel fill hose.

Just bought a 1988 C34, and after topping the tank and leaving it for a week, I found diesel in the bilge.

The fill hose was seeping, not at the clamps but the hose itself. I also found it barely attached to the fill opening on deck. The hose was dated 1987, so it's time to inspect all of the hoses from that era that still remain. I'm replacing the fuel feed and return lines in spring even though they still look okay.

My fill hose was 43" long, $63. Would happily have paid that to avoid the mess, cleanup, and odor.

[Stu Jackson]

HEAT EXCHANGER INLET PORT BLOCKAGE

Ed Shankle reminded us of this June 21, 2021.  I have been mentioning this regularly for years ever since 1998 when I first removed my old 2 inch HX and found the inlet port 3/4 gunked up with salt!  It was the cause of recurring overheating that my PO had been living with for years. 

As a reminder to all, if your water flow begins to slow and temp creeps up, before pulling the HX and bringing it somewhere to boil out, pull the raw water hose going into the HX and inspect inside the HX nipple. You may find a mineral blockage that you can break up with a screwdriver. It will get you back in business faster. Had to do that yesterday after I noticed slow flow, even though temp was still ok.

Regards,
Ed