Dahl 61 Filter Replacement

Albreen · June 15, 2011, 10:14:08 AM

Does anyone know of or use a Racor replacement for the Dahl 61 or 61W filter for the Dahl 60 fuel water separator? Searching the web hints at a replacement but doesn't go as far as cross referencing a replacement. Thanks.

Gary · June 15, 2011, 12:10:46 PM

Paul,

I replaced the Dahl 60 (original equipment filter in our 1986) with a Racor 215R2. It is rated at 15GPH which is more than enough for the Universal M-25. It has been fine for three seasons now. It is easy to drain before changing filters and has the clear plastic bottom to monitor fuel/water collection.

You can choose the level of filtration...... I am using the 2 micron filter.

Gary

Albreen · June 17, 2011, 10:04:00 AM

Thanks Gary. This looks to be a good way to go if replacing the entire unit. I was hoping I could simply continue using the Dahl 60 housing with a Racor element but I'm thinking it may just be easier to go with a new Racor unit entirely as you did. Ask for a Racor at any chandlery, everyone knows what you're referring to. Ask for a Dahl and the expression is predictably a dazed glare.

Did the fuel line fittings match up or did you have to modify the lines too?

Gary · June 17, 2011, 11:40:44 AM

Paul,

I believe you can purchase replacement filters for the Dahl online. Did that for five years having bought five at one time and decided to use them all. I know they are still available but in most marine outfitters you will get a blank stare as the Racor has become the standard. When it was time to order more filters I decided I liked the larger filter of the Racor and many of the parts on our 25 year old Dahl were tired.

I do not think Racor makes a filter to fit the Dahl. Racor would build filters for their units only.

When you purchase a new filter you will purchase bronze NPT fittings that fit the filter housing on one side and have a hose barb on the other to fit your fuel line. Buy right angle or straight fittings that allow for a "clean" run for your fuel hoses. Your current Dahl NPT fittings may be an exact match though. Please check your set up but I think the fuel line side is 1/2" The Dahl bolt holes to the side of the engine box were an exact match to the Racor. Easy to swap out in that respect. As mentioned many times on this board make sure that the fuel line routs from the tank to the filter than to the fuel pump. Many early boats had the pump first after the tank than the filter resulting in very dirty and failed fuel pumps. Having the filter first, then the pump, means the pump runs very clean fuel all the time.

Gary

Stu Jackson · June 17, 2011, 12:19:00 PM

Gary's right about the plumbing, included in the Critical Upgrades topic. The fuel supply hose size is 3/8th inch.

Albreen · July 06, 2011, 08:18:28 AM

Thanks Gary and Stu - in the end I replaced the Dahl with a 15 gph Racor - fairly easy swap out - fuel lines are 3/8" with 1/4" fitting for unit. The PO must have read about the fuel line sequence - the pump is after the filter which has a direct input from the tank. And the priming was a breeze compared to the former filter.

Gary · July 06, 2011, 09:30:53 AM

Paul,

Thanks for reporting back. Your fuel pump filter will now be absolutely clean and the pump life increased.

A couple of helpful hints. Racor factory installs the new plastic bowl very tightly to the filter. If you were at sea and needed to change your filter it is very difficult to get the plastic bowl off the first time. Two filter wrenches on hand turned in opposite ways might solve that problem. The first change of filters for me was this spring and I had to put the filter in a vice to remove the darned bowl. I had read about this as a problem but only after my personal experience, so I pass it on as a lesson learned. Anyway, I did not put the bowl on as tight (just hand tight) so that I will be able to remove it more easily in case of a filter change at sea.

I also found that instead of using the small hand pump on top of the Racor to fill the bowl it was easier to loosen the bolt/vent on top of the filter housing and allow the tank to gravity fill the bowl. Tighten the bolt just as fuel reaches it. That allows the smallest amount of air into the system. That is followed by opening the same kind of bolt/vent on the secondary fuel filter. Open the engine bleed screw to allow fuel to circulate, turn on the ignition/pump and the entire system will be purged of air. Close the secondary filter bolt/vent as fuel appears.

Hope this is helpful.

Gary

Stu Jackson · July 06, 2011, 10:31:41 AM

Gary and Paul,

You do NOT need to either open the vent on the Racor housing or use the hand pump. Ever.

Let the fuel pump do all the work, that's what it is there for. Save some effort and busted fingers using that pump.

It also has the advantage of lessening fuel spills. You still need to crack or open the nut on the secondary filter housing when doing that filter swap.

From Ken Heyman, our "Fuel Bleed Expert" --- http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5558.0.html

Fuel Bleeding 101: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6377.0.html

Albreen · July 07, 2011, 08:53:04 AM

Thanks Stu - despite reading here about the pump doing the work, I have to admit I was a bit dubious about the result. I'm now fully cured........it primed easily and ran without a single hiccup. I still prefer to prefill a new filter with PS Diesel and the concern with the Dahl was the difficulty in purging all the air - it always appeared to have an air gap in the middle of the plastic unit. Fortunately, this never materialized into anything but I always waited for the proverbial shoe to drop! As Gary stated, it took a lot of effort to get the new filter off the Racor unit and I'm glad I did it before having to change out on the water.