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Author Topic: Racor Primary Fuel Filter/Separator Identification + Facet Fuel Pump Filter?  (Read 5914 times)

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Mike McDonald

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Hi all,
I'm not sure what Fuel Filter/Separator I have on the boat.  It seems to be similar to a Racor 215R2, but it has a silver top rather than white?? Is there a 220 Series?  Does anyone recognize this specific system? I am trying to find documentation.  My system is still in the wrong order (fuel tank > fuel pump > Primary Filter).  I am planning on changing it to the proper configuration (Fuel Tank > Primary Filter > Fuel Pump) and want to insure I buy the right fittings to add a ball valve to the Racor inlet. 
Also, I have a Facet electric fuel pump and would like to change the filter on that as well.  I just found out that it had a filter on it.  Do you know what filter it takes? Are there any special considerations for replacing it?

I'll try to attach a picture of the Racor to help identify.
Thanks.
Mike....
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Mike McDonald
1987 / #0396  / M25xp
"Irish Diplomacy"
Pultneyville Yacht Club
Lake Ontario

Stu Jackson

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Mike,

Since you are going to replumb the pump/filter, the first thing to do (after you shut off the fuel valve under the port locker at the tank) is to remove the fitting that is screwed into the inlet of the top of the Racor.  Regardless of what model Racor housing you have, you will then have that particular threaded piece in hand.  Take that to a chandlerey and match the threads to whatever fittings you decide are necessary to add the ball valve.

Pump filter:  you don't need to replace it, just take it out and clean it, don't drop the magnet, and remember where it goes so when you put it back together you can do it properly.

If you want to find your housing, go to the Parker Filter website, which is actually shown on the side of your filter in the photo!  :D
« Last Edit: May 26, 2014, 09:59:13 AM by Stu Jackson »
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

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lazybone

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I thought plastic fuel bowls were a no-no?

Anyone know for sure or is my memory faulty?
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Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Stu Jackson

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Aldo, yes, based on ABYC.  But what we have is what was installed by the factory and seems to work just fine.  Mine's 27 years old!  If I was doing another one, perhaps I'd go for metal, but then you couldn't see the condition of the fuel and crud in the bowl.
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Albreen

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Regarding the question about plastic fuel bowls, I changed out the primary filter two seasons ago with a plastic fuel bowl Racor and recall researching and finding a plastic bowl is OK if placed outside the engine compartment but metal had to be used if inside the compartment adjacent to the engine. The location of the C34 primary filter in the head means the plastic unit should be fine and as Stu noted, better to visualize the fuel.
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Paul Leible
1987 C34 "ALBREEN", SR/FK, M25XP
Sailing Lake Champlain

Albreen

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I found this on the West Marine web site:

ABYC Requirements for Diesel Fuel Filters

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Recently we learned a disturbing lesson from a very experienced local marine surveyor. It seems that an obscure reference in the ABYC Standards mandates that all fuel filters used on diesel engines withstand a heat requirement if they are mounted in the engine compartment. We started to become more concerned when one of our technical writers, who lives aboard his Catalina 30 sailboat, got a package from his insurance company. It contained a survey for him to fill out, asking among other things, about Dahl and Racor filters with plastic bowls. The insurance company included a disposable camera, and requested photos of the filter. After researching this situation with the folks at the ABYC and at Racor we discovered the following:

ABYC standards for inboard fuel filter installations for gasoline or diesel engines require that filters installed within the engine space must be able to pass a two and one-half minute heat test as defined by ANSI/UL 1105. Unfortunately, Gasoline and diesel filters that meet this requirement are generally equipped with a metal bowl. Filters with plastic sight bowls must be equipped with a metal heat shield to pass the test. Boaters with diesel engines who prefer a filter with a see-thru bowl should select one of the Turbine Series by Racor, which includes the heat shield. Racor spin-on filters (with metal bowls) for diesel installations are available by calling 1-800-BOATING.
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Paul Leible
1987 C34 "ALBREEN", SR/FK, M25XP
Sailing Lake Champlain

Footloose

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Since most of ours are under the sink, in the head, I believe that the plastic bowl is fine.
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Dave G.
"Footloose"
Hull# 608  1988 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
Malletts Bay, VT- Lake Champlain

Mike McDonald

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Thanks for all of the feedback on the fuel filter.  Since it is not installed within the engine compartment, it sounds like the plastic bowl filters are in compliance??  I did look at the Parker filter site several times, and cannot find the exact model filter system, so I will just proceed as planned with the configuration changes. 
If anyone has this filter system, and knows where to get the documentation for it, I'm still interested.  As always, I really appreciate the information provided by the forum members. Thanks!
Mike.....
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Mike McDonald
1987 / #0396  / M25xp
"Irish Diplomacy"
Pultneyville Yacht Club
Lake Ontario

Clay Greene

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You could call Parker (parent of Racor) and I am sure one of their service guys could tell you the model from a photo.  On the Racor site, the R24S filter is described as being used on the Model 220R filter assembly:

http://www.parker.com/portal/site/PARKER/menuitem.bb22d5a82bbb5b147cf26710237ad1ca/?vgnextoid=a2d9b5bbec622110VgnVCM10000032a71dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=EN&vgnextpartno=R24S&vgnextdiv=687630&vgnextcatid=12183&configtype=

It looks like the 220R filter assembly has been replaced by newer models. 

I agree with Stu that you likely can just clean the filter in the fuel pump but you can buy replacements from Catalina Direct:

http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/feature/56_342/the-unknown-filter.cfm
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1989, Hull #873, "Serendipity," M25XP, Milwaukee, Wisconsin

KWKloeber

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The filter on our cylinder type Facet pumps is NAPA p/n 610-1085, about 9 boat bucks a copy.

Ken
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KWKloeber

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APOLOGIES
- the NAPA p/n is 610-1086  for the Facet in-pump filter.


The other number below is an in-line filter that can be used with the Facet cube pumps.

Ken

The filter on our cylinder type Facet pumps is NAPA p/n 610-1085, about 9 boat bucks a copy.

Ken
« Last Edit: June 07, 2014, 09:30:08 PM by KWKloeber »
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

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Mike : When you get ready to change the sequence of the tank to Racor to pump... take a small long nose vice grips and put a piece of small hose on the jaws to protect the hose and clamp it on the hose under the head sink to keep it from any syphoning.

Then remove the cylindrical Facet fuel pump (you are going to move it anyway) hold it upside down and take a wrench to the hex nut bottom and unscrew it (about 25degrees) and the bottom will come off.  Inside you'll find a cylindrical stainless wire screen - clean the screen and replace it and the bottom. 

Then install your ball valve cutoff in the Racor and re-plumb the rest. 

Just remember to mount the Racor in a location that you can put a large (old) coffee can underneath to catch the old filter with bowl attached and spilling fuel.  No mess -- No residual smell. 

Not that difficult to do!  A few thoughts
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Ralph Masters

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Two things to add here:
1) Plastic is fine as long as it is not in the engine compartment.
2) The fuel pump should be after the Raycor, because in that setup it draws a vacuum on the filter so if the plastic cracks you get air in, instead of fuel sprayed out.  Remember the vacuum gage that can be put in place of the the T-handle.  If you were pressurizing that filter you'd need a pressure gage, not a vacuum gage.

Ralph
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Ralph Masters
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San Diego
Hull 367, 1987

Stu Jackson

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...so if the plastic cracks you get air in, instead of fuel sprayed out. 

Ralph,

What a great point.  In addition to fuel filtration.  Thanks.
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Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."
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