outhaul upgrade

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steve stoneback

Hi all,

I have my boom off, both end caps removed and going to upgrade to a 5 to 1 purchase.  My question is, for those of you that used Garhauer blocks, did you go with 15 or 20 series blocks?

Steve
Steve Stoneback
Grasmere
1989 #918
Lake Oahe Pierre, SD

Ron Hill

Steve : It's been a number of years, but as I recall the out haul line is 1/4" line which requires a small block. 
I do remember that I found the outhaul line all twisted on the inside and almost impossible to pull anymore. Solved that by changing the swiveling block to a non swiveling block.  All is well 20 years later!
Ron, Apache #788

steve stoneback

Thanks Ron,
My outhaul was also all twisted because of the swiveling block, and yes, it was 1/4 inch line.  I will replace with non-swiveling blocks.  The 20 series blocks are 1 11/16 diameter and the ones I removed were 1 inch.
Steve
Steve Stoneback
Grasmere
1989 #918
Lake Oahe Pierre, SD

Tom Soko

#3
Steve,
I did the outhaul project about 15 years ago, and here are the parts I used for my C36 TR.  Your C34 might have slightly different dimensions, but I'd be willing to bet they are very close:

30' double braid line, 5/16"
12' plastic coated 1/8" SS 7x7 (or 7x19) wire (7/32" OD), with SS thimbles swaged on both ends
Harken #085 Double Block w/Becket
Harken #086 Triple Block
2  Harken #311 Ball Bearing Sheaves
Wichard #1413 Long "D" Shackle
8  ΒΌ-20x1/2" SS Hex Head Bolts

When I sold the boat last year, it was still working perfectly.  Hope this helps.

The 5/16" line was enough to bring the outhaul line back to the cockpit.  The hex head bolts were to replace the pan head screws for the end caps.
Tom Soko
"Juniper" C400 #307
Noank, CT

steve stoneback

Tom,

Now that is a great response.

I also did away the the screws on the end caps.  I tapped to 10 - 24 which might be a little small but better that the screws that were in there.

thank you

Steve
Steve Stoneback
Grasmere
1989 #918
Lake Oahe Pierre, SD

Ron Hill

Steve : Just make sure that you use some grease or lanacoat the threads of those dissimilar metals!  A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Roland Gendreau

I'm doing the outhaul upgrade as Tom outlined.

I'm thinking of using aluminum pop rivets instead of screws to re-attach the end caps.  That way it will be easy for the next guy to drill them out in 15 years in case the same job has to ever be redone.

Thoughts?

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude#1183
Roland Gendreau
1992 MK 1.5
Gratitude #1183
Bristol, RI

Ed Shankle

Careful, it could be you back in there sooner than you think. The large hex pin .75" (?) that connects the boom to the gooseneck is only secured inside the endcap with a cotter pin. Mine broke/wore away this year and it was a bear to get that end cap off. Seems to me a more sturdy pin than a cotter would be better. Maybe while your in there you can address that as well. Then it might be the next owner who has to take it off.

Ed
Ed Shankle
Tail Wind #866 1989 m25xp
Salem, MA

Ron Hill

#8
Roland : If you are determined to use pop rivits - I'd be careful of using aluminum pop rivits, stainless might be better in a salt water enviornment, if you are bound and determined to use pop rivits.

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Stu Jackson

Rivets?  Yuck.  Drilling out?  BAD idea.

Use Tom's idea and NO ONE will EVER have to worry about getting inside again.

Wish MY PO had done it Tom's way.   :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

scotty

#10
If you've never tapped out a hole for a bolt (make the threads), it's very easy.  Go to any hardware store and buy the appropriate sized tap (just a few dollars).  Take a piece of aluminum (I bought some from Home Depot) and try it a few times for practice.  Drill out the hole (size it for the size of the bolt minus the thread size - you can size it by eye.  (I think the hole is one size smaller than the bolt size.)  Then use the tap. Start slowly and keep it nice and streight.  Turn the tap a bit, reverse, turn (1/4 turn) and reverse.  Repeat that 'till the tap goes all the way in.  Use some oil to make it easier and also to not dull the tap.  It's a bit messy so have paper towels laid down and have a shop vac set up to clean up the metal shavings.  Try the bolt; it should go in easily! Piece of cake.
Scotty

Jeff Kaplan

Steve, I agree with Scotty not to use pop rivits for this application.  Drill and tap, very easy, and if you have to get in there at a later time, you will thank yourself for doing it this way, and as stated in one of the replys, use lanocote or neverseeze on the bolt threads...Jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

patrice

hi,
If you plan on tapping to put some bolts.

Check the link and you'll have a chart for drill size vs thread size.

http://www.newmantools.com/tapdrill.htm

As mentionned before, while you'll be turning the tap to make the thread, as it get harder, stop, reverse a bit to clean the tap, and re-start.
Use some oil, could be WD-40 that you spray the tap with.
_____________
Patrice
1989 MKI #970
TR, WK, M25XP
   _/)  Free Spirit
~~~~~~

Roland Gendreau

Ok I will go with hex bolts, not rivets.

I decided to re-paint the boom while I had it in the garage and had some time awaiting hardware to be delivered.

See photo below...3 coats of Interlux one part polyurethane.

Roland
Roland Gendreau
1992 MK 1.5
Gratitude #1183
Bristol, RI

scotty

Scotty