Rigging Question for Asymmetrical Spinnaker

[DarthOccam]

One of the nice "extras" that came with our lightly used 2005 C34 MkII was an asymmetrical spinnaker.  The previous owner did not finish rigging for it and it has never been used.  It appears to be a nice sail, by North Sails, and has a sock.  I don't know the size.

The boat has a dedicated spinnaker halyard led back through the deck organizer to a bank of clutches at the front of the cockpit.  There is a tack line that is run parallel to the jib furling line, from a clutch on the port side of the cockpit along the base of the lifelines and through a block secured to the bail on the bow roller.  

What I don't have is sheets or blocks for the sheets.  Since I've not used an asymmetrical spinnaker and I'm new to the C34, I have a few questions for those who have gone before:

• Any recommendation for what size block to use for the sheets and where/how to attach them?  The rest of the gear on the boat is Garhauer.  I assume I'll be bringing the sheet back forward to the main winches at the side of the cockpit.
• The jib sheets are 5/8".  Can I go a little lighter with the spinnaker?
• With the way the tack line is led, there's not much separation between the spinnaker and the forestay.  I understand the preferred approach is to double the length of the sheets and pass them forward of spinnaker to make it easier to gybe.  Any other suggestions?

Thanks again,
Michael

[Ted Pounds]

Do a search on "spinnaker sheets"  and lots of good threads will come up.  Here's one that I posted on a while back for attaching spinnaker blocks:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3436.0.html  For sheets you definitely want to go lighter.   Probably 3/8" would work.  If you're flying the chute in front of the forestay then the sheets need to be long enough to go around the forestay and back.  On my C25 I had the chute inside the forestay so I would jibe (and tack) it like a jib.  On my C34 it was outside the forestay and the spinnaker, like yours.    For the sheets I think the formula I used was 1.8 times boat length or about 60' each. 

[Indian Falls]

This may help you figure out yours:  I have a symmetrical spinnaker/dousing sock, I do not have a spinnaker pole of any kind, the sheets are always outside the lifelines and the head stay.  It is hauled up with a dedicated halyard and has the same setup for the tack as yours but there is a strap that goes around the furled jib. connects to the tack and the lead is hooked to it, and this lead(tack line) only keeps it from working it's way up the furled headsail. My tack is not adjustable under sail, there is no way to slide this strap up or down the furled jib with any pressure on it. As far as I can tell I could not use it without the strap, but I may try it next year and see if it's necessary.
The 1/2'' sheets come back to the blocks used for the jib, and are usually aft of the winches, can't tell you if it's right or wrong as I'm still learning this myself.

My wife and I can manage this setup fairly easy and we are pretty novice, we flew the "weapon of mass dimension" 4 times this summer without serious incident.  We had the bottom edge of the sail touching the water once or twice, an indication to me that it might be a bit breezy for it.

Without a pole there is no going downwind with this arrangement.  Broad reaches are the most fun and upwind performance is dependent on your ability to pay attention.  It's not a complicated setup, practice will keep you from tangling or getting your sheets on the wrong side of a component.  Dousing can be challenging as you have to block the wind with your main, hold that position, pull the sock down, release the halyard, and get it all in the forward hatch and not overboard.  A bit of wind on a socked kite is still a handful.  As far as sheet length, I don't know the exact footage but compared to the 1.8xboat length, that sounds about right.  Have Fun!

[Tom Soko]

Michael,
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but the bail on the anchor roller is absolutely NOT designed for the loads imposed by an A-Chute tack pennant.  I know that many owners have it rigged that way, and might have gotten away with it in light air, but you are asking for trouble if you keep it that way.  The tack pennant should be attached to the stem fitting or a forward cleat, but not the anchor roller bail.   Sorry.

[sail4dale]

Hmmmm Interesting ..I guess I am  bad.   I have been using the bale for the last 9 years.

I wonder how many are using it and what troubles have been encountered by the "miss-use"

IT the wind is really UP i will usually drop the chute and revert to the genoa.

[Wayne]

Re using the anchor roller . . . I set up a funky bobstay consisting of a large turnbuckle going from the bottom of the anchor roller near where the bail attaches downward to the bottom bolt of the stem fitting.  I don't know if this would pass engineering, but I figure its got to help a lot.

For downwind sailing don't forget wing and wing.  I find that my aspin is pretty forgiving about sailing it by the lee--much more so than my jib.  I know I would be going faster jibing my way downwind, but I move well enough to be happy the lazy way . . .

[DarthOccam]

Thanks for all of the feedback.  In particular:

Ted:  Thanks for the search link.  I ran a few searches and it helped to fill in some of the missing pieces.  I also went with 3/8" sheets.  I haven't purchased the blocks yet, but am thinking of trying two configurations: using some climbing loops I have to go to the stern cleats and the extra set of cars on the toerail track.  

Indianfalls:  your post jogged a memory, and when I checked the sail, I found I also had a broad strap to wrap around the furled jib and anchor the tack.  I have no idea of the pros or cons, but will give it a try in our next light air day.  (Unfortunately, it rained all last weekend--here in Southern California!)

Tom, et. al.:  Regarding running the tack line through a block on the anchor roller bail, I was under the impression that there was a backing plate under the roller than reinforced it.  What would you estimate is the safe working load for the bail?  The forward cleats on this 2005 are pretty far back from where I need to run the line so I don't know that's an option.  I'll have to look and see what else is up there I could use.

[tonywright]

There is a backing plate under the anchor roller. There is also a predrilled hole on the port side of the anchor roller designed to hold a shackle for the tack of a spinnaker.  You will find that the North strap that goes around the roller furling will take all of the forward load on the tack, and the friction on the sail will absorb some of the upward pull.

You need stand-up blocks on the outer tracks. I got mine from Garhauer. An ideal set-up would be to add a second level cheek block to run the sheet to the primary winch. So far I just pull our the jib sheet and run the spinnaker sheet through when I plan to use it.

I added a couple of extra stainless cleats on the mast for easy handling of the spinnaker halyard and the uphaul/downhaul of the sock. Much easier to raise and lower the spinnaker and sock from the mast, with another crew steering, or even single handing with the autohelm on.  You can leave the halyard on the clutch: keeps the tension on. This all seems to work very well so far.


One important safety tip: when not using the spinnaker halyard, flip it round behind the spreader and clip it to the base of the mast. This keeps it from fouling the jib furling. I have seen a skipper unable to furl a jib in building wind and seas because this was not done. He needed an emergency rescue.

Tony

[Rick Johnson]

I've added a short length of cable to keep the block from hitting the furler.  I'm happy with my solution...

[Ron Hill]

Michael : I use 5/16" (fuzzy braid) for the sheet as well as the tack control line.  
I think that you'll find that a block attached with a snap shackle to the stern dock line cleat will allow the sheet line to to do its job.

BTW, I was in one BIG blow where I was wondering if I was ever going to get that damn sail into its chute!! The boat speed was over 8 knots - the 5/16" lines all held well.  Even the 3 small lines (1/8") attached to the chute scoop bottom ring held, as I was lifted off of the deck a few times!!