Propeller Shaft Flange Questions

[Rick Johnson]

OK, the C34 is finally on the hard and getting bottom paint.  The cutless bearing is shot, so I need to replace it.  Any suggestions on getting the flange off on the transmission side so I can remove the shaft?  I've removed the bolts holding it to the transmission and removed the two set screws. The darn thing just won't budge!

Also I noticed that of the 4 bolts holding the flange to the transmission, 3 are 3/8" and 1 is 1/2".  Seems like that's a sure way to induce vibration or does that offset the 2 set screws?

Central Texas is over 100 degrees today and the inside feels like a hot-house.

Thanks for any help.

Rick

[Ron Hill]

Rick : Let's see if I understand your "It won't come apart" question? (First of all all of those 4 bolts should be 3/8" size.)  
I understand it, you can not get the flange on the drive shaft to separate from the 4 fingers on the transmission! right?  If so - Here's what I'd try:
Soak those 4 points with Liquid Wrench or Blaster.  Let it set awhile and then take a hammer and putty knife and see if you can split it apart.  Might also try a torch and heat a couple of those points.
I believe that your major problem may be getting the shaft out of the flange !!  You may have to cut it!

If all fails, you need to find the tool that squirts out the cutless bearing with the shaft in place and leave the flange firmly corroded to the drive shaft until you decide to get a stainless shaft sometime in the future.  A few thoughts.  

[Rick Johnson]

Ron,

Sorry,I guess I did not describe my issue correctly.

"I believe that your major problem may be getting the shaft out of the flange !!"

That is my problem!!!!  Damn thing is stuck solid....  I'm going to try heating the flange with a torch tomorrow to see if that helps, but if you have any other suggestions, I'm ready to listen...

Cheers,

Rick

[cmainprize]

Hi Rick
Try sliding the flange back a couple of inches and place a socket in front of the shaft.  You need a socket that has an outside diameter just smaller then the shaft.  Slide the flange forward keeping the socket between the shaft and the transmission.  Then insert longer bolts between the flange and transmission and tighten the bolts.  The pressure pushing back on the shaft should move it.  Soak everything in pb blaster or liquid wrench first.     

Good Luck
cory

[Steve Sayian]

Be VERY carefull using a socket on the shaft.  You could bend or damage the transmission tines and then be in a real mess.  I almost riuned my transmission on my C30 years ago.

I ended up cutting the shaft (it was bronze and went quick) and had to have shaft remnant pressed out of the flange. 

Steve

[Ted Pounds]

If you have a bronze shaft you might want to try Steve's idea of cutting it and take the opportunity to replace with a stainless shaft.  Just a thought...  BTW I ended up cutting mine, too, when I had the same problem.  I had to cut it anyway because I installed a Vetus flex-coupling which is a few inches longer.

[Kyle Ewing]

I've used a steering wheel puller to remove the coupler from the shaft.  I had to shorten the drive screw, but it worked well on my 1990 (#1010) with M25xp.  It was less than $20 from an auto parts store.

[mainesail]

Be VERY carefull using a socket on the shaft.  You could bend or damage the transmission tines and then be in a real mess.  I almost riuned my transmission on my C30 years ago.

I ended up cutting the shaft (it was bronze and went quick) and had to have shaft remnant pressed out of the flange.  

Steve

This is GOOD advice! Be very careful pulling a coupling with the gear box flange. It is often much less expensive to just cut the shaft out with a 4.5" angle grinder and cut off disc. You can cut the flange over the key way or just cut the shaft.

Oh and for safety's sake one should nearly ALWAYS replace the coupling once removed if it had a layer of rust. The MAX allowance for fit clearance is .001" most good shops will hand fit them into the ten thousandths range as .001" is the worst the fit can be to meet ABYC P-06. A layer of rust can be more than .005"...

This guy got very lucky as this could have just as easily been the gear box flange.

[Ed Shankle]

Rick,
Strut Pro is a tool that will push your cutless bearing out of the strut, if you want to simply deal with the initial problem. I told my marina about it when I needed to change the bearing, they thought it sounded good and bought one. They said it was great! Better than investing in it yourself.

Ed

[Ken Juul]

I have successfully used the longer bolts/socket method.  If you are going to try that method, remove the set screws the night before and fill with PB Blaster or similiar.  Several applications, a couple hours apart should help free up any rust/corrosion holding the flange.

[SeaFever]

Rick,

Let us know if you are able to remove your Shaft coupling using any of the above suggested methods. In my case (during the re-power from A4 to an M25) the coupling (on the shaft) was pretty rusted and would not budge. Since I had the A4 out I had space to work and I cut the coupling off the shaft. I had a SS shaft and I was able to save it and reuse the same shaft. If needed I can post some pictures of my 'project TX shaft Coupling' and more information surrounding it. I used a Makita reciprocating saw and went through 5 of the Sawz'all blades (the Chinese blades would not even scratch the steel!). Cheers.

[Ron Hill]

Rick : If you have a Harbor Freight near you invest ($7?) in a 3 prong gear puller.  Soak that flange in Liquid Wrench or Blaster for a few days and then try the gear puller.

If that fails I'd get a hack saw - then invest in a stainless shaft and a flexable coupling.  A thought