Another MK1 windlass installation...

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Michael Shaner

After a year's worth of "noodeling" it through, parting it out, fabrication, assembly, disassembly, reassembly, disassembly, etc., the final install came to fruition two weeks ago. It all started with the necessity of a ground tackle upgrade and it kinda snowballed. This is an install of a new bow roller to accommodate a 35# Manson and a Lewmar V1 windlass. Here's a couple of pics...I'll get the whole thing in the Wiki, just as soon as I can recall my username and password to add content... :shock:

Footnote credits to Ron Hill for being the Godfather of MK1 anchor locker installs...

Michael & Alison Shaner

Rick Allen

Wow!  Very nice install.  I would love to read more about it wiki.
Rick Allen, C34 IA Commodore
Former owner of "PainKiller", 1988 C34 MKI, Sail#746, std. rig, wing keel.

Rick Johnson

Rick Johnson, #1110, 1990, s/v Godspeed, Lake Travis, TX

Ken Juul

#3
The Wiki uses the same user name and password that you use on this forum.

I added notes to both (wikies?) (wikii?) to remind folks.

No more excuses now :cry4`

It really is a work of art.  The pictures don't do it justice.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Ron Hill

#4
Michael showed me his installation this past weekend at the C34 Fleet 12 Spring meeting.

I was going to go the stainless bracket route origionally, but found out how easy/quick it was to use the West System and make a bracket out of epoxy and mat in multi layers.
As I pointed out to Michael, you might consider mounting the switches on the bracket if you want a clean deck. Another thing to think about is moving the windlass head over to one side so you can still have a split anchor well and a good chain fall.

You also might want to put the "chain lock" (pin & bracket to hold chain) inside the anchor well.  It cleans up the deck and is less of a toe stubber.

I'm glad to see that another C34 with a double door anchor well wanted his windlass inside the anchor well like I did.  
It sure is nice to be able to close one door and stand on it while leaving the other door open to recover the anchor!!
 
Nice job Michael !!  
Ron, Apache #788

pablosgirl

Michael,

The PVC pipe hose holder is a great idea too!  It fits right into the danforth bar slots in the anchor well and keeps the hose coils neat and organized.

Thanks for the preview.  Can't wait to see the article in the wiki!

Paul
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP

Michael Shaner

Michael & Alison Shaner

scotty

Between Michael and Ron, I think I've gotten some pretty good advice about how to do this job. Thanks also to all the other contribuers to this and other related threads. Michael, do you have any thoughts about your installation now that it's been about a year?  I plan on putting my foot switches inside the locker (both on the starboard side so that I can have the port side closed for comfort and safety).  I also went with the V1 windlass.  Thanks for the wikki postings that you guys did.  It really helps.  You may have noticed that tonight I put a post on the message board asking for details on how to crimp-and-solder.  I'm still a week or two away from my installation.  Any advice or comments are always welcome.  Thanks :thumb:
Scotty

scotty

Mike,  Do you by any chance have the dimensions that you gave your metal fabricator?  Did you by any chance draft it out, and have a copy of that draft?  If so, could you send it (them) to me?  Thanks,  Scotty
Scotty

Michael Shaner

Scotty,

The V1 install has performed admirably for us...hands down the best upgrade I've embarked upon. If I had to do the project over again, I wouldn't change a thing.

QuoteI plan on putting my foot switches inside the locker (both on the starboard side so that I can have the port side closed for comfort and safety

Perfect plan. Offsetting the V1 slightly to stbd (aligned with the new bow roller) allows the port locker lid to be closed while operating the windlass. Great place to stand. I wanted separate up / down switches and had a hard time orienting them inside the locker where I thought they were comfortable/convenient to access. I couldn't get my foot in there. Pondering that dilemma for a couple days, I decided to put them by the toe rail...out of the way and easy access.

QuoteDo you by any chance have the dimensions that you gave your metal fabricator?  Did you by any chance draft it out, and have a copy of that draft?  If so, could you send it (them) to me?

I was the fabricator...and of course that would mean that I failed to document anything!  :shock: :cry4` The original template evolved from ever changing bits of cardboard and duct tape. I acquired some 1/8" stainless plate from the local machine shop and shaped it around the windlass dimensions, secondary anchor storage, washdown pump, etc. Are you going the stainless route or laying up a platform as Ron did?

I'll be visiting the boat over the weekend...I'll get you some dims...
Michael & Alison Shaner

scotty

Thanks!!  Mike, you shaped it?  Cool.  How did you do that?  Did you do the welds?  If so, you got game.  That is one beautiful hunk of metal.  If I can keep the cost down, I'd rather go with the stainless, because I think it has a better weight/strength ratio.  I'm in the process of making my cardboard mock-up.  Thanks for sending the dimensions. It will be interesting to see how close we agree.

It's funny ... I decided to upgrade to the V1 (rather than a V700), and boy, are the costs rising quickly.  I'm a retired teacher (high school math, science and wood shop) and for each $100 I spend on my little projects, I sub for a day!  :D  This project feels like it has me back at work full time!! By the way, I'm going with the 5/16" gypsy, 65 feet of High Test chain and 250 feet of 1/2 inch three strand line.  This is with a 15kg Rocna anchor.  I'm pricing out my wire now (30 ft of AGW #2 and 60 ft of 12v wire + connectors) - which is the last purchase I have to make in addition to the mounting bracket.  Feel free, people, to give me advice or comments,  all of you folks have been a lot of help.
Scotty

Ron Hill

Scotty : Word of caution - I don't believe that Catalina made two C34s IDENTICAL !!  Therefore I don't think you should use Michaels measurements or even use mine !!

It's so easy to make a cardboard template and and tape it in place so you get everything set up properly before you go to stainless or mat/glass . 
I surely would not recommend taking someone else's measurements and "bending metal" with those numbers. 
Been around Catalina long enough to do that !   A thought   :!:
Ron, Apache #788

scotty

Thanks Ron.  I was down today making my cardboard template.  I just wanted to compare dimensions. 

I spent some time down in the boat drilling holes for the cable to follow.  Then I led a line along the path of the cable to get the correct measurement.  My two runs from the battery (and the circuit breaker) to the solenoid are 14 ft each.  I just bought two 15 foot lengths (one red and one black) of AWE#2.  So, the project starts...
Scotty

Mike and Joanne Stimmler

Has anyone done this project on a single door chain locker?
Mike and Joanne Stimmler
Former owner of Calerpitter
'89 Tall Rig Fin keel #940
San Diego/Mission Bay
mjstimmler@cox.net

Ken Juul

This is how mine is set up, think it is a factory (or dealer) install.  1990 single door.  If yours is similiar no need to build the mount, just install a horizontal one.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA