Oberdorfer Raw Water Pump & Rebuild Info

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Ken Juul

engine oil should not be red.  After about an hour even brand new oil turns black.  Spillage from filling should be brownish in color.  Transmission fluid is always red in color.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Michael Algase

Al / Lucky -

Start looking a little further aft of the water pump.  Red oil is probably Transmission fluid. . . . Been there.

Michael

Michael Algase

Tranquilizer
'86 # 91, SR, FK

Ron Hill

#17
Lucky : I'll guess that your "red" oil is rust in a few drops of engine oil.
What you need to do is run the engine and look at the weep holes to see what if anything is coming out.

Tom : Rebuilding an Oberdorfer is a breeze compared to that DAMN Sherwood.  You can get Oberdorfer parts at a great discount cost from DEPCO (800-445-1656), but Sherwood parts you'll have to pay for as NO one is allowed to discount Sherwood parts.  

You'll seldom have to replace the oil lip seal on an Oberdorfer because it's leaking - as the oil keeps it lubed.  However, to replace the water lip seal you'll first have to remove the oil lip seal.  Hence, you'll always have to replace both seals when fixing an raw water leak.  

You'll usually have to replace the stainless shaft, as it'll have a grove worn where the seal rides.

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Barry White

Hi Rick, I just went through the same exercise this season; initially, I thought the problem was a worn gasket...not the case as I soon discovered. Ultimately I was able to order the repair kit from Oboerdorfer through a local dealer, and ended up replacing the seals and (graphite) bearing sleeve myself. The trickiest part of the exercise was the replacement of the graphite sleeve. It was a "press fit" operation, with the very brittle graphite sleeve.  I lubricated the sleeve with a light marine grease, and "tapped" it into place using a wrench socket. It would be advisable to use something to "cushion" the impact as the sleeve ended up with a chipped end, (although it worked fine all season), and we had no further leaks. Obviously the seals worked fine, and were not a problem to install. Hope this helps,

Cheers,

Barry

Ron Hill

Barry : Had you read my articles you would have found that a large "C" clamp or a wide mouth vice would have pressed that graphite bearing in easily.  Great info in those old Tech Notes
Ron, Apache #788

pablosgirl

Ordered pump seals and spare impeller kit today from Depco (800) 445-1656.  Here are the prices
water and oil seal (the same) $12 each
impeller kit (includes paper thin gasket) $34
replacement shaft $34
Paul & Cyndi Shields
1988 hull# 551 Tall Rig/Fin Keel
M25XP

Rick Allen

Great pictures Mr. Sanner.  I picked up a new pump over at sea power yesterday.  Most estimates to rebuild were more then half the price of a new pump, so I just bit the bullet on bought a new one. Still looking for the gasket between it and the engine block.  I also picked up a new engine mount.  And you're right, that engine paint is 30 bucks!!  We may be looking at selling this boat soon (dang partners and Ahhnold) and I want that motor looking and running top notch!  Thanks for everyone's help and I'll be posting new pictures soon.

Rick
http://public.fotki.com/Sailorick/sv_painkiller/
Rick Allen, C34 IA Commodore
Former owner of "PainKiller", 1988 C34 MKI, Sail#746, std. rig, wing keel.

Ron Hill

Rick : If you don't bugger up the existing gasket between the Oberdoffer and engine it should still be reusable.  In fact I never put on a new gasket in 21 years and probably had that pump off at least 15 times!!

If you go to an auto parts store and get a can of GM metallic Camel touch-up paint it's the same color and only about $5.

Good luck getting that old mount off.  I'd recommend taking a saw to the threaded stud and cutting it just under the engine mount bracket.  A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

Ken Juul

There is nothing magic about gaskets.  Metal to Metal joints (two hard surfaces) do not do a very good job at stopping fluids.  Depending on the application you can make one from light bond paper, sheet gasket material, or even the cardboard from a legal pad.  If the old one rips coming off, save as much as you can for a pattern and make a new one, try to match the gasket thickness as close as you can, remember the original got squashed, so it started out thicker.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

lucky

Found oil leak on transmission.Bottom plug was leaking,removed plug installed new gasket from NAPA,end off leak.Thanks to all
Al
Lucky hull#13

Stu Jackson

Quote from: Ron Hill on November 17, 2009, 02:40:15 PMLook in the Mainsheet tech notes and you'll find an article I wrote on rebuilding your Oberdorfer yourself. 

That would be May 2002.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Stu Jackson

That time of year again to check all your engine stuff.

Maine Sail has a good HOW TO article on redoing water pumps:  http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/raw_water_pump
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."