WHite Vapor in engine exhaust....

[Stu Jackson]

GOOD MECHANICS ARE ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE TO FIND.

There was a discussion on co.com about this issue, see: http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=111166  While some have, I haven't found a mechanic worth a hill of beans.

With this message board, and others, and all of the information now available, it seems that even "weekend warriors" may be able to do a better job than any / most "mechanic" can.  This does not include complete engine teardowns and rebuilds (although Dave Sanner has reported on his work in great detail:  http://www.c34.org/projects/queimada/m25xp/), but it does apply to the routine maintenance and troubleshooting that is necessary for day-to-day operations and consistent performance.  I once had a guy tell me he was so surprised that my engine started every time I tried to start it!  His didn't, so I suggested he find out why and fix it!

On another board I wrote this:

As for "professional" help...I must admit I find that phrase an oxymoron when it comes to boats. The ONLY work I ever had done on my boat (other than standing rigging) was by a "qualified" mechanic who took my old riser off and installed the new one in 2003. He didn't put in the specified muffler patch paste on the flange threads, which caused blowby and made me have to remove the riser in 2008 to fix his screwup. He also installed a curved black hose to the muffler, in lieu of the hump hose I spec'd. It wore itself through quickly and I'm glad I checked his work.  And replaced the hump hose that was there before he did his work.

Quite frankly, anybody who lets other people work on their boat is nuts because it's a safety issue. The more you learn about your boat, the safer you are.

Having said that, after my skiing accident last January I have developed a new sensitivity to phsycially challenged situations, and am much more 'Understanding' of folks who HAVE to have someone else work on their boats. However, there is no excuse for most of us to NOT do our own work. Anyone can learn how to use tools and take it a step at a time. Boards like this one, which explain HOW to do things, with information that just wasn't available even five or ten years ago, makes wonking out and "having the yard do it" a lame excuse. Most stories I hear are horror stories of shoddy and poorly done work. The backside is YOU do NOT get to know your engine and systems, end up with a big bill, and have to eventually fix it yourself.

We put off buying a big boat with a diesel engine because it was far easier to take our 7.5 HP Merc off our C25 and bring it in for servicing. Boy, I missed many years of more fun sailing on our "new" boat 'cuz of that. I was "a-feared" of diesels in 1998. Now I love my engine, because, being from here in California, "I have become one with my motor!"

Now that my leg is about 60% back to normal, last week I changed the diesel fuel filters, did an oil change and transmission fluid change. I also CAREFULLY INSPECTED my engine and found, GASP, a MAJOR crack in the alternator housing casting. NO, I repeat, NO "boat mechanic" would've caught that puppy, simply because "it ain't his boat!"  See: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5127.0.html

We have all learned so much from these kind of forums that unless there is a physical disability (believe me, I know) I see no reason to NOT learn how things work.

It makes you and your guests on board SAFER.

It seems that tracing down overheating issues on our engines almost always starts with the raw pwater pump and the continuity of the raw water system, including the heat exchanger.  Michael, in your case, at least you got a new head gasket in the process.

Ron's absolutely right about the way the HXs work, the fresh water (anitfreeze coolant) HAS to go through the tubes.  Why?  Because if it didn't when you replaced the zinc you'd get coolant all over the place instead of saltwater (or lake water).  Right?

Anytime you smell coolant, ya have to figure out where they (can) mix and work from there.  Sorry you did the head gasket thingie before coming here, but we're pretty sure that it's your HX.

Please keep us posted, and all the best.

[Ron Hill]

Peter : You can test the temperature sender, but it's a lot of screwing around with two 12v + and a 12v -wire tied to the sender and a 12v power source. 
You can go to your Kubota dealer and get another sender for about $20.  Just make sure that it has the correct size pipe thread and temperature range !  Take the old one out and you're sure to get a correct replacement.  A thought

[Steve Michel]

Sorry this took so long to reply to ....

So far this season, we pulled the head, replaced all upper end gaskets and seals. Had a "speed" shop check the head and valves since it was already out of the boat, they were fine. Replaced all of the external hoses except one (we'll get to that later).
Inspected the muffler, (I have access to cameras to do this kind of stuff).  Reconfigured the intake from the sea water fitting, from the original 1/2 inch intake to the 3/4 intake for the sink (new strainer), and pulled and cleaned the heat exchanger twice. Replaced the oberdorfer seawater pump thermostat, and the fresh water pump also.
After all of this work, I ran for about 2 hours under load, everything worked well ! Actually it never ran this cool!

Came back to the marina, cleaned up, and returned the following weekend for a quick sail.  Only to discover that the ONLY hose on the outside of the engine which I didn't replace, leaked about 4-6 gallons of fuel into the bilge. I probably set the head on it while reinstalling it. Fortunately. the switch is electronic,( Water Witch) and did not turn on, (It would have created an environmental nightmare in our marina).

I'm not comfortable that this could have happened, and am going to install a high water alarm on the boat (with a float switch). Also, a piezo buzzer in parallel with the bilge motor to let me know every time the bilge pump does turn on.
I cant than

[Ron Hill]

Michael : To really check the engine for temperature use a IR thermal gun.  Shoot it at the thermostate housing and at each end of the HX.  Then you'll know the real temperature.
Also make sure that none of the metallic covering on the engine cover insulation is touching the temp. sender.  To make sure that that metallic covering isn't touching the sender, put a "rubber boot" on the wire that connects to the temp sender. 
A few thoughts