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[Stu Jackson]

Replace the fuse holder from the start button to the starter solenoid

Here's two of the many posts on this issue with pictures:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4556.0.html  and http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1637.0.html

The SYMPTOMS:  NOTHING happens when you hit the start key or button.  Usually originally diagnosed as a bad key or button, usually it is NOT.

Also see Reply #24 below:  Starter Problems - bad ground lug connection for negatives to the engine.


Added to wiki. KJ

Also see Reply #42 below, on page 3:  Starter Problems and the fuse is in the wrong place!!!

Maine Sail's article shows the OEM el cheapo fuse holder in one of the pictures nearer the end of the article:

https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/

[Stu Jackson]

Fuel Pickup Hose Inside the Tank

repeat from Reply #14

Here's why:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1213.0.html

In addition:

There was a picture of the fuel pickup hose that Ken Juul posted a few years ago.  I stumbled across it the other day, copied a link, but turns out it was incorrect, the link that is.  I've removed the link I originally posted here.  I've searched for the topic and the photo, but haven't yet found it.  

It shows the end of the hose with a garbled piece of hose sticking out of the tube, blocking half of the hose and a magnet for more growth and blockage.

If you haven't yet done so, check your 1990 or earlier and maybe '92 and earlier.  Please do so.

If anybody's found the topic & the picture, please post it, thanks.

[Stu Jackson]

Fuel Pump Hose

Factory went:  tank, pump, primary (Racor), engine

Should be:  tank, primary, pump, engine

The link in the post just above explains why very well.

and this one - Complete Fuel Filtration  [added 5/29/14]

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1213.0.html

[Stu Jackson]

MARELON THRU HULL VALVES

Please be careful with the valve handles and screws.

See:http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2729.0.html

[Stu Jackson]

Rudder Bearing Housing

A recent topic indicated a potentially serious issue.  It would be worthwhile for both Mark I and Mark II owners to check their rudder post's assembly.  The chances of having another one like the one posted are rare.  But, it isn't worth it to be "the other guy" if all it takes is a simple check.

Thanks to Miles Henderson for identifying the issue on his boat & also to Ken Heyman for suggesting that it be added to this list.

See:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5371.0.html

[Stu Jackson]

Traveler Through Bolts

This is an amplification of the first post on this topic.  The link on the first post takes you here to an earlier Message Board thread:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5071.0.html

I thought it deserved its own post, and a link to the wiki picture, too.

Older boats, up to around 1990 perhaps, do not have the traveler track through bolted.  In an unexpected gybe the traveler track can pull out.  Has been written up in Mainsheet.

It's also on our C34 Tech Wiki:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Traveler_Bolts

The "fix" is to call Catalina,Catalina Direct or Garhauer, buy two long bolts that they sell, buy a long drill bit and install them.  The bolts go all the way through and end up inside the cabin.  These are in addition to the existing bolts that only go to the fiberglass traveler support, and may be screwed into embedded brass plates.

You finish them with fender washers for backing and acorn nuts for your head.  

The one on starboard over the galley is easy to do.  Be careful lining up the port side one, because of the walls for the head door and between the head and the nav station.

This is valid for C30s also.

[Stu Jackson]

Wiring Harness Upgrade

Here's another one.  This is June 2010.  For a 1988 boat!!!

Warn ya?  Ha!  Thanks to Bob for his report.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5722.0.html

Maine Sail's take on this:  https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/

Ron has said, over and over again, that there are STILL boats out there who haven't done it.  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3716.msg21837.html#msg21837

Even IF you have a voltmeter, you could still have the OLD stupid connectors.

What's your boat worth to you?

Here's another one, September 2010, 1987 boat:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5861.0.html 

And another followup:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5866.0.html

Thanks, Todd & Len.

And another one, from 2022!!!  Thanks Antoni.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11465.0.html

From one of the many wiring harness links:

Of the many wiring harness references in the Knowledgebase this one is noted:

DO IT NOW.

On a repeated basis, both here and in my Secretary's Reports in Mainsheet, I have been noting that owners of older boats NEED to read the material.  And then ACT on it.

I also believe at least an understanding of, and better yet an ability to repair, boat systems is essential to safety.  I didn't know any of this stuff when we bought our boat, but I read the stuff, and I bought the tools, started working on things, skinned many knuckles and feel that I have a responsibility to me, my family and my guests to get them out and back safely.  I know we all do, and some have differening abilities and interests.  But the information availble to us on this website should make it no excuse for anyone to NOT repair those things that are obvious and begin to learn about the others.  In the worst case, some $$ can be saved on yard bills by at least knowing more about the complicated machinery that our hulls surround.

From the May 1997 Tech Notes (by Ron Hill):

Engine Harness Upgrade – Do It NOW!
Our November ‘96 Mainsheet article on electrical systems really stirred up some
interest. Hank, Duane, and I have all received a number of requests for our electrical schematics. But, I still am hearing from people who have not made the engine harness upgrade. So much has been written and talked about that modification, I surely hope that nobody really wants all of the power from the alternator going direct to the key switch in the rear of the boat, then coming back to the battery selector switch, and finally (the few amps left) to the
batteries.
A few years ago Bill Beck, “Prosit”, hull #1186, had just anchored and took
their dog ashore in the dinghy. His wife, Dot, was on the boat by herself when all of a sudden the engine started itself. She tried to shut the engine off but it kept restarting. Dot dove overboard to get off that “crazy” boat. One of the harness connectors had shorted out keeping the starter engaged.
Fortunately the starter burned out before it started a fire. Bill had NOT modified any of his C-34 electrical components and had NOT upgraded the harness.
In the spring of 1991, I installed my high dual output alternator (each output
goes to a battery bank bypassing the battery selector switch). I had the engine
harness upgrade but had not installed it. I did, however, take the harness connector at the engine apart, inspected the terminals, and disconnected the old alternator lead to that connector. Everything looked good so I rewrapped and wire tied the connector. I thought the upgrade installation could wait as  only low amperage would be passing through the connector. The next spring I added Bob Bierly’s (C’Mon Wind, hull 913) VHF radio modification in the cockpit (Mainsheet article May 1995). Had to take out the engine instrument panel anyway so decided to do the half of the engine harness upgrade at that end.  Maybe a month later I got around to the other half of the modification at the engine. To my surprise, when I took the connector apart, the side with the male pins crumbled in my hand.
If you haven’t made the engine harness upgrade, you may want to reconsider.

There's also Maine Sail's write-ups:  http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558 and http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade

[dodgercc27]

How can I tell if I have the upgraded alternator bracket or not?

In an unrelated topic, I just took ownership of our 1989 C34, so I'm trying to learn all the new systems.  I can't seem to find the dip stick for the transmission. I've crawled in the bilge underneath the aft cabin.  All that I could find was a large nut sitting on the port side top  of the housing.  Is that it ???  It seems odd that I would have to get the socket set out to check the fluid. 


Thanks!

[Stu Jackson]

1.  How can I tell if I have the upgraded alternator bracket or not?

2.  All that I could find was a large nut sitting on the port side top  of the housing.  Is that it ???  It seems odd that I would have to get the socket set out to check the fluid.  

1.  Look at the pictures here:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22  With a 1989 boat, you have the M25XP engine, which already had the new bracket installed.  This is ONLY for M25 engines.

2.  Yes, that's it.  Not strange, it's a boat, it vibrates, locking the dipstick makes sense.  Go to the Tech wiki and www.marinedieseldirect.com for pictures and more details about your engine.

And welcome to the board.  Join the IA, too.

[Stu Jackson]

STARTER PROBLEMS

Many may consider this a "maintenance" issue, but it comes up so many times with new owners of older boats that I think it merits attention here.

In addition to the discussion about starter fuses in this topic, Reply #15 above, the MAIN reason starters don't work is the original OEM factory lug ENGINE GROUND connection to the bell housing.

Read all about it here:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5409.0.html

This is one of dozens of discussions about the issue.

Here's a picture of one from a 2006 discussion:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3039.msg16338.html#msg16338

Was also discussed in Projects many years ago:  http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-slow-starter-fix.html

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I don't know how many times I've answered this same question on this and other boating forums.

Anything intermittent like poor starting is an electrical connection going south.

Check the main engine ground first, it might look good, but pull hard on it, and remove it and clean it.

Check the fuse between the start button and the starter solenoid.

Check all connections, especially in the wiring harness.

[Stu Jackson]

M25 Engine Heat Exchanger Bracket and Abrasion

On the M25 engines the HX rubs on the bracket (at least on my engine, the newer engines have a bracket brazed onto the HX for mounting, mine has a bracket and uses hose clamps), I installed a tire tube between the HX and the bracket because I found evidence of rubbing.  It wouldn't be fun to have the shell of the HX broken by the bracket and lose all cooling to the engine.  Almost as bad as the hoses to the hot water heater under the galley sole (also in this Critical Upgrades topic).

If you add this isolation, be sure, as Ron always warns us, to do the dollar bill test between the HX and the exhaust riser to make sure they're not rubbing against each other.

This is yet another reason to sometimes take the whole HX OFF the engine to check it out.

The other  big reason to take it off?  If you're in saltwater, the port where the raw water cooling comes into the HX is where it "meets" the hot side freshwater recirculated coolant.  This is where the salt "precipitates out" and on both my old 2 inch and newer 3 inch HXs, this port can get clogged up.

So, please do your engine a good turn and spend some time removing and completely checking out your HX every few years or sooner.  

What's your engine worth to you?

[Stu Jackson]

New Alternator Bracket Source

http://catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1957

Thanks to Mark from the Ericson website

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=7596

[Stu Jackson]

OLD ELECTRICAL PANEL PADDLE SWITCHES

Looking for information on the older style panels with paddle switches and fuses, here's a link to the Seaward website.  I've also attached it as a PDF file.

http://www.seawardproducts.com/upgdinfo.pdf  8/17/11 - doesn't work anymore, use the attached pdf below

It comes from this thread:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4344.0.html

[Stu Jackson]

Head Odors - Eliminate the Source

Tap your head sink outlet into the head intake.

Simple.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5755.30.html

While not a "Critical Upgrade" in terms of safety, it gets a lot of repeat questions, and is sooo easy to do.

[Ron Hill]

INSPECT THE FUEL FILL CAP !!!

The plastic fuel fill cap can and over time WILL crack and let rain/washing the boat water drip into the fuel tank -- NOT GOOD !!
This problem was identified by the C36 people in the mid 1980s and written up numerous times in the Mainsheet Tech notes.
 
You have two choices with this problem:
1. Inspect the cap frequently.  Remove the cap and I suggest alcohol or water be poured into the removed cap and see if it leaks.  If so, go to Catalina Direct and purchase another expensive cap to replace the leaking one.
2. Install a stainless fuel cap assembly.  The fuel fill is a 1 1/2" hose and there are a number of fuel fill to be purchased.  If you remove the engine instrument panel you can push up on the old assembly (after the screws are removed) to break the caulk holding it to the deck.  It took me about 1 hr. to do the job by myself.

If you still want to use the plastic cap I recommend that you only gingerly tighten it with the winch handle.  A few thoughts

NEW July 2017 Catalina Direct now makes stainless steel caps  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9465.0.html