RUDDER REPAIR

[Clay Greene]

FYI, the cost for a new rudder is $2221 plus shipping, as quoted to me by Catalina yesterday.     I was told it would be $100 more expensive (plus another leg of shipping) to send them my old rudder and rudderpost because of the labor involved in stripping off the old rudder.  So, sorry to say that the $1500 price quoted at various places in the forum is out of date.   

[waterdog]

In February it was $2076...

[Craig Illman]

In Sept '07, I paid 1698.09 including freight.  I'm glad I made the plunge then, even though it was about a full year before I got it installed.

Craig

[Bill Asbury]

Thanks for the followups, guys.  Repaired rudder as suggested by Kent in CY service dept plus suggestions from various folks on this board and splashed the sucker last Tuesday, so far so good...:-)
Bill

[C Martinson]

A little off topic - my emergency rudder connection (cap on top of the rudder post) has a crack in it due to corrosion between the SS bolt and the alum post....PO or someone didn't seperate metals.  I assume that the rudder is connected structurally to the steering mechanism and this bolt on top only holds the cap on....can anyone confirm this?  Also - the cap is "welded" pretty tightly to the post...any good ideas on how to get it off without damaging the rudder post?

thanks

Chris
More Therapy
1989 hull 945

[Stu Jackson]

I assume that the rudder is connected structurally to the steering mechanism and this bolt on top only holds the cap on....can anyone confirm this? 

Chris, don't take the bolt out, it holds the whole rudder shaft onto the boat!

[Ron Hill]

Chris : Lets get things straight.  In a STANDARD TRANSOM C34 - The emergency tiller cap is aluminum.  The column that it sits on top of is stainless and the bolt that goes thru is stainless.

As I've written the the Mainsheet tech notes a number of times, you will not loose the rudder if you remove that bolt.  The rudder will be held in place by the steerting quadrant.  If you turn the rudder with the wheel the weight of the rudder will cause it to slide down, but you won't loose it!!
Because of the dissimelar metals (Al & SS) that cap has corroded itself to the stainless column.  You might want to take a Dremel tool and cut it off.  Get a new cap from Catalina and coat the inside with grease or lanacoat before replacing.

If your rudder slides down, here is what I've done.  Put the bolt back in and take a 3 or 4:1 block and tackle.  Attach one end to the bolt thru the column and the other end to just above the split in the back stay.  Tighten the B&T while turning the wheel and the rudder column will come back in place.  Then remove the B&T and install the cap making sure the holes in the column are at about 1oclock and 7oclock so you can slide the bolt back in thru the cap and holes in the column.
A few thoughts.   

[Stu Jackson]

you will not loose the rudder if you remove that bolt.  The rudder will be held in place by the steerting quadrant.  If you turn the rudder with the wheel the weight of the rudder will cause it to slide down, but you won't loose it!!   

Dropping it down enough when you turn the wheel is enough for me to still say NOOOOO, don't do it.  It won't fall out, but you'll have a heck of a mess on your hands if you do remove it and turn something.

Ron's expert help is invaluable and you should read everything he's written, ever...

Join the C34IA and gain access to all of his Tech Notes.

[Michael Shaner]

Here's a almost related question, now that I know how the rudder post is attached...(don't tell anybody I tore the aft cabin and lazarette apart on Sunday trying to figure it out...its a tight fit back there! )

I have approximately 1/4" of vertical movement in the rudder post, between the top of the rudder and the hull. As the bolt through the emergency tiller cap and the rudder post is just that, a through bolt, it sounds as though there is no vertical adjustment. Should I shim the rudder back up to remove the 1/4" or so of vertical "play" or do I just finish up the paint / wax and go sailing?

[Ron Hill]

Michael : I had the same problem and here's what I did :
There is a nylon bushing (extra that I got from the factory) that I sanded down (full bushing wouldn't fit) and put it on top of the existing bushing to take up that slack.  If your clearance is 1/4 " that's about the thickness of the bushing.  Get an extra one and it should do the job.
Should be an easy task.  Good Luck 

[Ron Hill]

Guys, Susan & D.G. : If you read my post and preposition the tiller cap bolt so it can be pulled straight out -- there is NO reason to turn the wheel (and have the rudder slide down) !! 
A little preplanning and you can pull out the bolt, remove the rudder cap and the rudder will stay in place!!!  A thought

[Michael Shaner]

Thank you very much Mr. Hill...