Preventer / Vang & COMPLETE MAST RENOVATION

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waterdog

Sorry.  I didn't answer the question on retapping.  Yes after you paint, every screw hole will need the threads chased with a tap.  It's easier than trying to put screws in the paint.   There are only a couple of sizes on the mast.  Lanacote your taps.   I found my gooseneck fitting had fine threads on 7 screws and coarse threads on one.   I went bigger and retapped the whole thing.  If you haven't tapped threads before, don't be intimidated, particularly with aluminum.   It's really easy, you just screw them in and back them out.

When you take the ancient fastners out, you fear they will never come out.   When you tap the holes and put in a new screw with lanacote, it glides in so smooth you fear it will just fall out on its own... 
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

canuck

Where did you have the work done and who tuned your rig?

waterdog

Pro Tech Yacht Services did the rigging.   Stewart, the owner, tuned it personally.   But I just have bits of tape indicating turnbuckle position with no seizing wire in the turnbuckles.   Everything is an approximation until we go for a sail with a press of wind. 
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

Stephen Butler

Many thanks for the detailed steps....they will certainly be of help in our planned mast re-do! 
Steve & Nancy
Wildflecken II
1990, #1023

canuck

My experience with Protech ans Stewart was good as well last year. I had then recut and install lifeline gates amidships last year. Best modification to keep the Admiral happy!

jacksonlord

This is a very smart idea, and the best as far as I'm concerned!:

Quote from: Kyle Ewing on March 16, 2009, 11:45:04 AM
My preventer runs from one of the main sheet points on the boom through a block on my outside genoa track then back to the cockpit where I tie it off on a cleat.  I can adjust tension as needed so an accidental gybe doesn't put a large shock load on the system and quickly release it if I have to.  I can also safely slow the boom during a planned gybe easier than using the mainsheet.  After a gybe I move the preventer line to a block on the opposite track.




Analgesic

One more way to do the preventer I came up with during one of my sleepless nights-I have a 3 strand dock line in the anchor locker pre-marked with a Sharpie.  I attach the line to the bow cleat and run the loop end aft.  I have a second dedicated line I clip to the furthest aft bail on the mast which then runs forward through a snap shackle I clip on the dock line loop.  The second line then comes straight to my winch for easy adjustment (the winch is always free since the genoa is trimmed on the opposite winch).  It ends up looking like a "Y" and all lines are attached to strong anchoring points.  I have used this set up for years with excellent sense of security.
Brian McPhillips
Brian McPhillips  1988 #584  M25XP