Windlass vs Traveler Upgrade & Using a Jib Sheet Winch as a Windlass

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Rick Johnson

OK, I'm trying to decide what to buy the boat for Christmas.  I have it narrowed down to a Lewmar V1 windlass or the Garhauer Traveler upgrade.  I just cannot decide.  Anyone have any feedback?  I was planning on the traveler upgrade but saw the Lewmar V1 for $599 (free shipping). Now I'm undecided....

HELP!!!!
Rick Johnson, #1110, 1990, s/v Godspeed, Lake Travis, TX

Craig Illman

Rick - What would a burly Texan need a sissy windlass for?   :think

Craig

Stu Jackson

Rick, do you anchor more than you sail? :D
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

waterdog

Rick,

Don't listen to the bad advice.   They are attempting a direct assault on your manhood to bully you into the traveller upgrade.   The truth is you've been able to adjust your traveller just fine to this point.   Sure sometimes you need to ease the sheet and luff up a bit, but you're not racing.  If you are racing, you wouldn't be asking the question, right?   Now hauling up 150 feet of rode with an anchor full of Texas mud is more than your aging back ought to deal with.   Save your strength for adjusting the traveller.  Go for the windlass.   

Steve

Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

BillG

Having done both projects, I can tell you they are both worthy.  However, you may want to make the decision based on the amount of time to do each, I'm assuming given your hull number that for the traveler upgrade you will only need to replace the cars, which will take about  1 1/2 hours not including the time to soak the screws with PB Blaster.  The windlass upgrade is a major winter project and will take alot of your weekends over the next couple of months.
Bill
Rock Hall, MD

Craig Illman

Rick - Bill makes a good point. Like a horse, the windlass itself is the cheap part. You're going to have a few hundred bucks in battery cable and epoxy/fiberglas supplies to invest in with the windlass. Unless you want to make changes to the leads at the same time, the traveller upgrade requires no extra stuff. (btw, I had to drill the heads off the end cap bolts on my track)

Craig

Hawk

I'm doing the traveler upgrade shortly(post above), but hauling up 90 feet of chain and anchor in 18 knots in the San Juan Islands sure was nice with a windlass last July...............
Tom
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

Ron Hill

#7
Rick : I've posted this a number of times, but let me try again.  If you have to decide between a ridged vang and the traveler upgrade do the vang.
I've found that with both, I seldom use the traveler anymore (when beating/broad reach).  If you already have the ridged vang then go for the windlass. 
If you go to the web as I mentioned in my Mainsheet Windlass article; the wire, connectors heat shrink etc. is about $100. 
Your choice!!  I have all 3 - upgraded Traveler, Rigid Vang and Windlass !! 
Go for the Windlass!!  It even works when there is NO wind!!!  A thought
Ron, Apache #788

waterdog

Quote from: Hawk on December 08, 2008, 03:21:48 PM
I'm doing the traveler upgrade shortly(post above), but hauling up 90 feet of chain and anchor in 18 knots in the San Juan Islands sure was nice with a windlass last July...............
Tom

Tom, what were you doing in the San Juans?   I've heard the water is cold down south...
Steve Dolling
Former 1988 #804, BlackDragon - Vancouver BC
Now 1999 Manta 40 cat

Hawk

Yes, but the rain is warmer down there Steve........(:
Tom Hawkins - 1990 Fin Keel - #1094 - M35

Rick Johnson

Ron,

The rigid vang was the very first project.  Looks like the windlass will be next. With the traveler upgrade some time in the spring... The fact that my back is hurting today made up my mind for the windlass...  Thanks for the help.

Rick
Rick Johnson, #1110, 1990, s/v Godspeed, Lake Travis, TX

Joe and Carol

I would do the traveler upgrade first.  I do not have a windlass and sometimes have to retrieve anchor with block and winch.  I always try and upgrade what the Admiral wants first, what sails the ship better second, what makes the engine more reliable third, that which keeps everything cooler fourth, and everything else is with fifth of rum discussed.  Good Luck!
Joe & Carol Pyles

YatchaSea
1987 Catalina 34 TR
Hull #244

Sailing Stockton Lake, Missouri

Craig Illman

I'd simplify things into two categories, sailing and cruising. The lists shouldn't compete with each other. Rick, you really ought to do both to stimulate the economy. You could finance them by making replica kits of your galley shelf to sell to us more craft-challenged sailors.

Craig

Ken Juul

Rick your anchor locker should be set up like mine.  Here is how mine is installed.  Works well for me, keeps all the anchoring stuff under the door until needed.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Ken Juul

Why Rick had to make a choice had me confused.  He sails in a lake in Texas, how hard can it be to anchor.  A quick geography lesson courtesy google: Lake Travis was created by the impounding of the Colorado River by the construction of Mansfield Dam in 1937- 41. It is 63.75 miles long, its maximum width is 4.5 miles. The lake covers 18,929 acres.  There are 270 miles of shoreline around the lake. It has a maximum depth of 210 and an average depth of 62 feet.  A quick scan of the Chesapeake Bay show the shipping channels average 50-60', everywhere else is less.  We have a couple of rivers cut by the ice age that reach 80'.  I normally anchor in 8-12' of water, holding sucks so if I can I use alot of scope.  My guess is that Rick probably uses more rode than I.  I now agree; go with the windlass!! 
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA