Fuel Tank Removal

[billandalita]

Thanks Stu for the tip on photos.  I think that there are some major differences in the fuel tank configurations between earlier models of the C34 and my 2002 version.  Last year I helped my brother-in-law remove a leaking fuel tank from his 1988 C34.  In the 1988 version the aluminum tank sat on a plywood shelf of some sort and was open to the engine area.  You could see the tank from the access hatch in the head, for example.  In the 2002 C24 by contrast, the tank compartment is part of one large fiberglass molding that includes the rear berth area.  With the port berth side panel removed you can see this tank area is integral with the rear berth compartment.  All tubing, wiring, etc is routed through holes in this shell into the tank area.  You cannot see the tank from the engine area anymore as it is in a separate compartment.  It is a tight fit which prevents the tank from sliding out sideways.   The attached photos show the tank being removed from my 2002 C24.

[Jack Hutteball]

Good pictures of the tank removal.  I am confused about picture 3 with the tab sticking out of the tank.  It appears to be the top forward end, but I do not see where the pick-up and fuel gauge ports are.  On my boat they are on the forward end under the access ports in the lazarette above.  It sounds like you had to work the tank forward and out at the same time right?  Picture 3 seems to show it rolled a bit?

Jack

[billandalita]

Jack  You are right.  I had to pull the tank out at the forward end and at the same time push the rear of the tank forward in its compartment.  It could not come out directly sideways because the opening was too narrow at the back of the tank compartment and especiallly because the tank vent opening was at least a inch higher than the opening.  The idea was to pull the tank, forward-end first, out into the aft berth compartment as far as it would go and the aft end of the tank was pushed about as far forward as it would go.  Then by rotating the tank to the right it was possible to clear the tank aft vent opening as it was pulled out.  The tank did a lot of flexing at this point before it came out.   Picture 3 is a view looking at the aft end of the tank which has been rotated in the forward part of the tank compartment prior to it being pulled out.  This is the only way I found to clear the fuel vent opening (which is the tab looking protrusion)  which you see in picture 3.  Hope that makes sense.  Bill

[Jack Hutteball]

Thanks Bill.  Now I get it, we are looking at the aft end of the tank as it comes out of the front of the opening.  I know I will have to be doing this one day.  It also appears that if I am going to install a new fuel pick up for the heater I am going to install, I will have to pull the tank to do it.

Jack

[Stu Jackson]

All th more reason, Jack, to simply tap into the fuel supply line.   

[Jack Hutteball]

I believe your right Stu.  If I have to bleed the heater line once a year when I change the Racor it will be no big deal.
Jack

[Ron Hill]

Jack : I'd "T" into the fuel line after the Racor!   

[Jack Hutteball]

Ron, that was my plan, but after doing the layout on the boat I am finding that because of the location of my Racor I exceed the 6'-6" maximum length of the fuel line recommended by Espar, I will either need to find a closer location for the heater or add an external  fuel pump.  (Admiral says a diagonal fuel line across and up thru the middle of the aft cabin is not an option!)
Jack

[Ron Hill]

Jack : You might ask Espar - if the Racor line that you tap into is higher than the heater, does the 6'6" length restriction still exist? 
I assume that your heater is close to the flooring.   

[Jack Hutteball]

Ron,
My Racor is located clear down by the raw water intake on the starboard side rear of the engine, and the heater will be in the aft port locker about the height of the rub rail.  It will definately be an uphill pick-up.
Jack

[thereefs]

Billandalita,thanks for your great posts,now Im ready!

[Mark Elkin]

Thanks for the photos.  I was thinking of a 4 inch access hatch but now will go with a 6 inch access as you have.  I will order Seabuilt plates.  I will probably have to install and remove plate before taking the tank in and out, but that should not be a problem.   Also, do you remember where you got the lazarette hatch?   I would send some photos of how tight the tank opening is, but I am not sure yet on how to add photos to this message board.  Bill

Sorry for delay replying.  The lazarette hatch is just your typical marine deck plate you can get from most chandlers.  Here's West Marine's selection: http://ecatalog.westmarine.com/full.asp?page=0551&LinkBackProdId=232502.

[billandalita]

Thought I would finish up with a description of the reinstallation of the tank with its new hatch.  The tank is manufactured by Skyline Manufacturing, LLC, and the material is given as XLPE (polyethylene?).  The first figure shows the Seabuilt Access Plate System loosely installed on the tank prior to installation. The fuel tank hatch is about centered on the tank top surface so that I can reach every part of the interior with a small cleaning brush.  I had to uninstall the plate system in order to slide the tank into its compartment and then install the access plate to the tank through an access hole I previously cut into the lazaret floor in much the same manner as Mark Elkin showed earlier in this discussion. It was then a matter of reinstalling the fuel inlet, outlet lines and the fuel gage.  To do this it was necessary to move the tank about somewhat to install these items from existing small hatches in the lazaret floor.  Finally the lower tank brackets were fastened to the tank compartment floor.  The next photo shows the fuel sediments left in the tank once all the fuel had been removed.  The white specs are bits of plastic left over from cutting the hatch.  The tank was brushed out well with a degreaser and dried.  The last photo shows the interior of the tank, cleaned and installed.  Hopefully now the tank will be easy to inspect and clean without removing it from the boat.  Thanks again to all the forum folks for their helpful comments and suggestions on this topic.   Bill