Rigging a Cruising Spinnaker

[Rick Johnson]

Can anyone help with a little knowledge?  I bought a used cruising spinnaker and need to order the new blocks.  I talked to Guido at Garhauer and he said to get size 40s/50s for the spinnaker crane and the tack.  He said size 60s would be best for the sheet turning blocks, but really suggested adding two additional foot blocks.  I was curious what others had installed (I did a search and read through the posts) and it looks like several people rig a block on the aft cleats (seems like an easy way to go).  What size blocks are people using and should I be ordering adjustable or snap shackles?

Cheers,

Rick

[Ted Pounds]

Rick,
Here's what I did for sheet blocks:  I replaced the forward bolt on each of the aft cleats with an eye-bolt.  I also added aluminum backing plates while I was at it.  I got a a pair of Harken becket blocks for free from a friend.  I attached snap shackles to each to hook them to the eye-bolts.  Then I attached shock-cord to the beckets.  The shock-cord has hooks for the life-line loops on the pushpit.  The shock-cord keeps the blocks from banging on the deck when not in use.

[Wayne]

I bought sliders with an eye to go on the outboard genoa tracks.  I also bought Harken air blocks (they aren't too expensive, look good, and won't scratch anything); I replaced their bail with a snap shackle which clips into the eye.  This makes my leads fully adjustable, and when I'm not using the spinnaker the blocks clip off and store away in a locker.

[Rick Johnson]

OK, that brings up a new question, could I use my old genoa cars as turning blocks for the spinnaker sheets?  It seems like they would be strong enough, but I've never heard of anyone using them in that way.  Would it work?  I'm guessing that most owners rig the blocks futher aft.  Such as from the aft cleats. 

I've haven't looked at the boat yet, but I wonder about the "tack".  I think I saw that Ron Hill uses a cable through the stem fitting for a tack downhaul block?  Is that the "common" way?

So many questions, so little money....

[rirvine]

Rick:

If your boat has an outside geneo track, you can use the old jib car for your asymmetric spinnaker. This approach give you the opportunity to move the car back and forward along the track until you find the "happy" spot for your asymmetric spinnaker.  The "happy" position for the block depends on the cut of asymmetric spinnaker, AWS and AWA.

I run my asymmetric spinnaker sheet through a block attached on the outside geneo track, then through the return check block to the primary winch.

This is similar to approach Wayne proposed.

I also have a set of blocks as far aft as possible (just off the back of the anti-skid) on my MK II but only use them for symmetric spinnaker sheeting.  They are too far aft to get the most efficient use out of my asymmetric spinnaker.

Enjoy it all.

Ray

[Ron Hill]

Rick : I'm sure thru your research that you found that the clue of an asymmetrical spinnaker is best sailed with that clue out as far as possible - the pole on a tri cut spinnaker does just that (keeps it out there).  So if the sheet line is angled toward the boat (or sheeted in) that clue is pulled in - hence the further back that turning block is the better angle.

As far as where to attach the Tack of the A-Spinnaker?  I believe that it should be just above roller furling drum.  It just so happens that the 1986/87/88 C34s have a different stem fitting that allows a small 7/19 cable to be easily attached and get that tack above the drum. The tack line goes back to the cockpit to a small #16 Lewmar winch (which is also used for the genoa furling line).

I use 5/16" sheet lines for my A-spinnaker and my blocks are sized to match, but could handle up to 7/16" line.
"So many questions, so little money.....", so much reading.   

[Rick Johnson]

"So much reading" - Ron, you sure have that one right!   Half the stuff I find on the internet contradicts the thing I read at the last website.  I've found sailmaker websites that say the sheet blocks should be all the way aft, to others that say near the front of the cockpit.  I guess I'll start at the end of the track and see how it goes.

Sounds like I'll need to come up with a different idea for the tack. So the stem fitting is different for the 89-95 Mk- I 1/2s?  I ordered the 40 series blocks from Garhauer today, so I'll see what I can figure out by the time everything arrives next week.  Thanks for the help!

Cheers

[sail4dale]

I've been running my AS with the tack line running thru a block attached to the bale of my anchor roller.  I then run the line back along the starboard to a ratchet block attached to my aft cleat.  If I need to adjust, I can run it to my primary winch.  I have double locking turning blocks so I may remove the sheet from the winch and use it for the tack line adjustment.

Often on certain wind angles you want to let the tack out for several feet and this allows you to adjust to the optimum.