Bow cleats

[John Gardner]

If you've been following the above thread, my recent experience will amuse you.  I just put in a couple of cleats a couple of weeks ago, and completely agree or completely disagree with various items above!  But for a for the end result, see photo (attached I hope):


From Defender:

Item Description: SUNCOR TRIMLINE CLEAT 316SS
Item Number:      012177
Quantity Ordered: 2
Price Each:       $25.99
Precision Cast 316 Stainless Steel
8" long; 1/4" fastener holes (4)
Model #: C3208-0000

So I installed 2 stainless steel 8 in cleats each using four ¼ in stainless steel bolts.  Each was installed with an aluminum backer – I happened to have some 1/8 in thick aluminum alloy plate, and I cut two backers each 2 ½ by 4 ¼ in.  I  pre-drilled the plates to match the cleats.

When I started this little project I had only one access port in the front wall of the anchor locker.  (See photo)  I found that if I thrust my left arm including elbow right inside I could then bend the elbow and get tenuous access to the area where the bolts for the starboard cleat would be.  (I never did the Charles Atlas course, but those that did it, or didn't need to, might not be able to manage this contortion.)  Since I have a propensity for cutting things the wrong length, I checked everything 3 times, drilled the first hole, put the cleat in position with one bolt dropped through, and drilled the other three holes.  A quick check and a sigh of relief that the backing plate did indeed fit, and everything looked like it should.  Chamfered the holes, put sealant in and installed the cleat and bolts.  Then came the fun bit of getting the nuts and washers on.  By the time I had thrust my arm in the hole twenty times due to dropped nuts and washers and for this or for that, my knuckles were beginning to get a bit bare through scraping on the unfinished fiber glass.  Eventually the nuts were on, and starboard was finished.  As suggested above, I had the backer plate and the wrench on strings, but I soon found that the washers and nuts that I dropped ended up in the bottom of the bilge under the forward bunks.  Half a dozen assorted nuts and washers were all recovered without problem.

The port cleat was a different kettle of fish.  The position of the Beckman access port is not central in the boat, and the port side of the anchor locker does not have a shelf let in for a small anchor.  There was no way I could get my right arm to the area where the cleat bolts would be.  I had to put in another access port under the cleat.  Out with the reciprocating saw and a hole was cut.  For some reason, (previous boat maybe) I had in mind that the wiring to the forward nav lights was in the starboard side.  Not even when saw hung up on something did the light dawn.  Only when the disk of fiberglass came out did I realize the stupid truth.  Duh!  I put the new Beckman port in – that was easy, and installed the port cleat.  Same sort of process as for the starboard – a lot easier this time, but still requiring plenty of patience and dexterity.  And then I repaired the wiring.

[Ron Hill]

John : Not too sure when you did this job, but in my post of last month I warned about the bow light wires on EACH side.  I also posted that wire warning in the early 1990s - in the Mainsheet Tech notes and in Projects suggesting you use a short blade in your saw.

Another reason that I really liked the Schaefer cleats is the mounting hardware.  They have 1/2" sturdy bolts.  I never liked my 6" cleats not only because the horn was too small, but also because they were only mounted by 1/4" bolts.

I'd suggest to anyone purchasing cleats to use at least use 3/8" bolts, even if you have to make the existing holes larger.  A thought.