Replacing Jabsco with Raritan PHII

[foursailing]

Has anyone replaced the Jabsco head with a Raritan PHII?  I've seen a couple of related posts but couldn't find one that actually did this project. 

I've just pulled out all the old hoses and tank and getting ready to install a lectra/san.  Figured I'd go all the way and upgrade the head too.  Sounds like the Raritan PHII is a good unit.

Thanks,
Bill

[jmnpe]

Bill,

My 1988 C34 has a PHII that was installed by a PO. My previous Stamas 44 boat also had a pair of PHIIs, and they are very trouble-free for the money. They are affectionately referred to by people inside Raritan as the "Fred Flintstone" toilet, but they work quite well and they are pretty easy to overhaul. The pump handle sticks out a little farther, but you can always leave the cotter pin out of the pump handle and remove it when not in use. I always just leave the handle in the UP position when it's not in use and it's not in the way on the C34.

I don't think installing one in place of the Jabsco is much of a problem, and you will like it better than the Jabsco, at least in my opinion.

John

[Howard Armstrong]

i have a 1988 model made the swap. had to cut a hole for the discharge hose but easy to do. the raritan is much easier to operate. i sat mine back far enough that the handle being in the down position is not a problem.

[Mike Vaccaro]

Bill,

We did it in our '88 a couple of years ago--here's a copy of the original post:

Just completed the replacement of the original Groco head with a Raritan PHII.  Also replaced all of the original sanitation hose and valves.  Overall, everything was pretty straight forward.  We used SeaLand OdorSafe hose.  A total of 20' was required for our 1988 boat, although we probably wasted 4 feet or so through fitting errors.  At about 8 dollars per foot, definitely worth measuring twice, cutting once, but our initial estimate was gracious to ensure that we didn't run out, since the hose is a special order item.

A thorough flush of the system with fresh water was performed, and a bit of bleach was pumped into the tubing (didn't want any in the holding tank itself).  Bottom line, can't do this job without a few whiffs of, well, something I'd just as soon not whiff.  Also made up some bleach/water mixture in a spray bottle to spray on fittings, hose, etc while working. 

Not all Catalina 34S are plumbed the same way, so our only recommendation is to start at the deck discharge, and work your way to the head.  We replaced the short 1 1/2" connection between the tank and the macerator pump, but didn't replace the 1" line from the macerator to the discharge seacock.  I'd recommend replacing the vent line at the same time the main discharge line is replaced, since you'll have access to both.  Catalina ran a single 3/4" ID tube to the vent st antion, but the installation is not possible without kinking the hose.  We fitted a nylon elbow to keep the line properly open.  Keep in mind that it's recommended that 90 degree bends be avoided in vent lines, but I chose to replicate the original installation.  The elbow is fitted immediately below the st antion.  From this point on, there is sufficient room to bend the tube without kinking.

The odor safe tube is easily cut with a hacksaw for a square edge.  I actually used a 4" belt sander to finish the edge.  Certainly not necessary, but not all that much extra effort.  When fitting the hose, a heat gun is very helpful.  Ensure that the hose is warm and flexible, but not too hot (it can become brittle with overheating).  When the hose is warm, it will slip over the fittings.  Smooth fittings usually don't require heating, but demand a second hose clamp.  Molded nipple fittings require heating, and once the hose is on, it's not comming off without the aid of a knife--so don't forget the hose clamps!

Y-valves are one of the most common problems in any system, so I wouldn't hesitate to replace an old valve if it's the least bit worn or suspect.  Unfortunately, these valves aren't cheap!

Use caution around the seacocks.  Fitting the hose can put a considerable amount of force on the fittings and valves.  I managed to crack the nylon thru-hull under the direct discharge seacock.  This bought me an unplanned trip to the slings (2 boat units), a new bronze through hull (.25 boat units) and sealant.  As I do whenever I replace a through-hull, I added a 1/2 plywood backing plate to the inside of the hull for added strength.  This is the third through-hull I've replaced although it's the only one that was leaking (I replaced the transducers for speed and depth when we bought the boat, so I changed the through-hulls at the same time).  During the next bottom job, the remaining four nylon through-hulls will be replaced with metal.

I left the last segment of line off that connects my anti-syphon valve to the head.  When fitting the head, there isn't much room on the platform for the footprint of the PHII, but it's doable if you're careful.  I had to re-bore the hole through the bulkhead with a 1 7/8" hole saw.  This hole was bored at the same angle the hose passes through the bulkhead.  To accomplish this, a small pilot hole was drilled, and then I stuck a long drill bit through the hole to check the angle.  This angle isn't necessary, but simplifies the hose connection at the head, since there isn't any bend induced in the hose.  The same effect could be achieved by overboring the hole, but then you'd end up with a larger than necessary hole through a structural bulkhead.  I covered the old hole with a small vent cover--this is purely cosmetic since I filled the hole with epoxy and a compatable plug.  Didn't feel like trying to blend the repair with the formica on the head side of the bulkhead. 

The PHII has six possible lag bolt mounts.  You don't need six bolts hold the head in place!  I filled and faired the old holes with epoxy.    Four is sufficient, but you'll have to be very careful drilling and sizing the bolts, since the hull liner is very close the the hull.  I used a drill-stop to ensure no buffoonery, and then inserted a long bit to measure the depth underneath the liner to the hull.  Due to the footprint of the PHII, I was able to mount lag bolts in all three front positions and the aft position below the pump handle.  There wasn't sufficient clearance for the two aft bolts under the bowl. 

The PHII has a cosmetic fairing over the base.  This isn't required, but if you do fit it, you'll have to cut the back portion to fair with the liner behind the head platform.  The easiest way to fair the ABS plastic is with a 4" belt sander, then finish the edge with fine sandpaper or file.

The PH II water inlet is on the front of the pump section--most heads have this fitting on the back.  A 90-degree nylon elbow is required to avoid kinking the hose at this point (3/4" ID).  I used solid white hose to match that installed on the head.  Any reinforced tubing will work, but the white looks the neatest.

Since our boat has three seacocks under the sink, I re-arranged some of the plumbing to ease head maintenance.  The factory routed the shower sump to the raw water inlet for the head and the drain from the sink had it's own seacock.  I swapped the sump to the former drain seacock and ran the sink drain to the head inlet.  Now I can flush the head with fresh water just by filling the sink (I need to insert the sink stopper if I want to use seawater to flush).  Also allows us to do a quick vinegar soak with minimal effort. 

My family really likes the simple operation of the new head, and we seemed to have licked the boat smell problem.  Regardless of the tack you take, I'd recommend shelling out for the best hose you can get your hands on and look for savings elsewhere!

Definitely the *&%F#est job yet!

Cheers,

Mike