Going faster

[John Langford]

I have traded my three blade Michigan wheel for a feathering Kiwi prop, tweaked the rig and the stock sails, downsized to lighter sheets and replaced the stock deck turning blocks with Ronstan track blocks to reduce friction and sheet hang up. The results have been spectacular. I am going much faster, keeping moving in light airs and tacking much quicker. The C&C 99 that was leaving me in the dust is now in my gun sights especially if we are slightly off the wind. This, BTW, is all in friendly racing among cruisers sailing from anchorage to anchorage.

Now I want to kick it up a notch and the question is will I get a suitable return on an investment in a new sail. The stock foresail is still in reasonably good shape except that the sunbrella UV cover needs work. But it feels heavy and I lust after a new UK dacron possibly with spectra reinforcing if that is an option. Should I save my money or go for it?

[Footloose]

John,

Someone else will have to speak for replacing your newer sails, but I can say that when I replaced my 18 year old head sail it was remarkable and was money well spent.  I don't believe the boat had been used very much before I bought it but it never seemed to trim properly.  I took it to the local sailmaker who has his boat near mine and knows how we sail.  He recommended a new sail.  I am able to point higher and it trims much easier. 

I am trying to decide if I want a new main sail or deck hardware and your post and other recent posts about deck hardware upgrades has me leaning toward hardware.  I know it is my boat and my decision.  This years budget isn't going to allow for both.  I can also say that it hasn't kept me awake at night.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Garhauer makes all ball bearing turning blocks in 2 sheave and 3s.  I found that to get a better fair lead, I added a 3/16" lexan block under the new deck organizer(turning block).  That increased height raised it to insure the line didn't touch the top stainless frame and only ride in the sheave.
A thought.   

[Dave W]

If you don't mind getting a little dirty,   something you might want to consider is spending some time  fairing the keel into the optimal airfoil shape.  It is cheaper than new sails,  especially if you do the work yourself,   and it will last for the life of the boat.   Computerkeels can sell you the templates,  and the rest is just grinding and filling.  you might be able to get some information on  the theoretical keel shape from the factory as well.

Dave W.

http://www.computerkeels.com

[dave davis]

Sounds like you are making some good changes that should help. But don't forget the bottum side!
It takes a lot more than just slapping on a new coat of paint every year or so. Before you concider a paint job, you(or the yard) will have to wet sand the bottom nice and smooth to at least a 230 grit. Get all the sanding done in one direction as the water flows. If the PO had roller paint applied, get rid of any evidence of roller marks or paint brush marks. Now you are ready for a very smooth SPRAY JOB by a PAINT PRO. If you have the time and energy and $,  you can apply a very soft touch wet 400 grit after the spray has dried.
The suggestion by the previous post about fairing the keel should also be extended to fairing the hull. This of course should be done before the painting. I have seen some Catalina keels that are much in need of lots of failing. This can be expensive if you are paying yard prices but you have to decide how serious you are about speed.
Good Luck, Dave


Good Luck, Dave