Throttle Creep

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Jeff Kaplan

ron, as i stated in this post, i tightened up the bolt to what i thought was down enough. this weekend we did a little motoring and i noticed the throttle creeping right back, as if i had done nothing. always falls back to 1700 rpm's, steady and smooth cruising, but not into a headwind.  i am going to remove the compass and binnacle again, and re tighten. this time i will pay more attention to the tension i feel, as i move the throttle back and forth. i thought i had it the first time, but guess not...jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Tom Soko

Craig,
The cable clamp fix for the throttle cable was suggested to me by Will Keene at Edson.  I had complained to him at a boatshow that tightening the throttle friction bolt under the compass made no difference.  I don't know if the bolt was bottomed out or stripped, but the cable clamp has worked perfectly for the past 11 years.
Tom Soko
"Juniper" C400 #307
Noank, CT

Jeff Kaplan

tom, where is this clamp exactly located, in the pedestal or at the engine?. i'm going to retry and tighten down the bolt one more time but if no luck, i will attempt your fix. ron,i have crows foot wrench and will try that before removing the binnacle, much easier if it works. thanks...jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Craig Illman

Tom -

I was just trying to give credit where I thought it was due! I put my stainless clamp down close to the engine, where I could reach it through the aft cabin access door. I tightened it down to about where I thought it should be and dabbed a little silicone on the threads  to keep the nuts from backing off. I see I need to tighten them just a tad more. One of these days I'll try to contribute something original, but I'm not as creative as most the folks here! I joined the C36 group as an associate member to acknowledge all the good stuff I've learned over there (and pick up your CD).

9 days until vacation and counting.........

Craig

Stu Jackson

Tom

HI :appl  Thanks so much for your contributions here.  I recently got to your own website and think your photos are extremely helpful.  Could you give us a link to it so our guys can see all the great things you've done to Julandra?

Thanks,
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Jeff Kaplan

tom, i was just on your projects page and saw on #66 the cable clamp you are talking about. is the clamp just put over the casing and tightened up?. looks pretty easy and won't have to remove the compass, because as you stated and i found out, tightening up the bolt on the lever didn't make much of a difference.thanks for the input...jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Jim Price

Guys, I just tighten mine today using the existing bolt in the pedestal.  I tried the crows foot that I had but it was not open enough - meant more for "top down" vs. sliding onto bolt.  Had to remove compass but was easy as in the past, I had coated the long bolts threads with Lanacote after a disassemble.

Only turned bolt about 60 degrees and throttle seems tight.  Any more and the lever would not have moved.  Up to now, the throttle would drop as much as 500 RPM when I try to cruise.  I tested at the dock afterwards in reverse at 2600 RPM and it never moved.  Will see how it does underway with the rest of the vobration, flexing, etc. next week.

I am guessing that on boats where the friction bolt does not seem to work, maybe you should just try removing the bolt and "roughing up" the head where it may be worn smooth by the lever.  Or you could replace with new bolt - even longer size.  Just a thought. :thumb:
Jim Price
"LADY DI", 1119
1991
Lake Lanier, GA

Stu Jackson

Jeff, how about copying and pasting the link to Tom Soko's project page right here?  Tom may not have visited here today.  Thanks,
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Tom Soko

Tom Soko
"Juniper" C400 #307
Noank, CT

Jeff Kaplan

tom, thanks for posting your site, i have taken many ideas from it, just finished reefing setup but i used a block for the clew line. anyway, could you respond to my last post to you here about the cable clamp on  your #66 as to whether it is just put on the cable and just tightened up. thanks...jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

SteveLyle

On Sewanee Belle the cable clamp is about a foot back from the engine end of the cable (i.e., find where the throttle cable terminates on the engine, find a nice, easily accessed portion of the cable before it disappears back under the aft cabin sole, and put the clamp there).

Jeff Kaplan

thanks steve.  i will install over weekend.....jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Tom Soko

Jeff,
I installed the cable clamp almost exactly where Steve installed his, an easily accessable spot 6-12" back from the engine end of the throttle cable.  With lock washers under the nuts of the cable clamp, I've not needed a drop of silicone, but that's a good idea. 
Tom Soko
"Juniper" C400 #307
Noank, CT

Jeff Kaplan

thanks tom, i will put the clamp where yours and steves are. the pic #66 showed up very clearly. i keep your projects page in my favorites, lots of great ideas. thanks...jeff
#219, 1986 tall rig/shallow draft. "sedona sunset" atlantic-salem,ma

Ron Hill

#29
Guy's : I've been out on the boat this past weekend and looked at the "Throttle Creep" problem.

!.  Do believe that if I were Will Keen (owner of Edson) I wouldn't admit that my throttle adjustment bolt didn't work!!  Again in Will's defense, he doesn't know what engine his throttle assembly will be attached to!!  Edson's "rubber ducky" shifter handles of the 1980/90s single handily caused MANY emergencies that when it broke off - at the most inconvenient time!!  Did they have a recall - NO.  Most of us PAID for stainless or metal throttle/shifter handles to fix their problem.

2. My friction bolt is FAR from bottoming out, but it is a stainless bolt threaded into an aluminum housing and if you play "King Kong" with a wrench you could conceivably strip those threads.  To more easily get at that bolt all you have to do is back out 4 screw that hold the deviation compensator in place. 

3. The fuel cut off cable is a solid cable going thru a twisted wire stationary outside with a plastic jacket.  I don't know what's  inside of the throttle cable !! - solid or multi strand wire.  Don't believe that I would use a clamp on the outside of the twisted wire outside if the inside is multi strand wire!!  Could be easy to wear one of those strands and cause a "fish hook" - JAM.

4.  If for some reason my adjusting bolt under the compass didn't work in increasing the friction I'd look for another point to increase the friction!!

5.  The throttle cable (M25, M25XP and probably the M35 engines) attach's to a pivot arm on the underside and the top attach's to a solid rod going to the governor control.  Ron's solution would be to back off the 3/8" nut to a Allen head bolt at the pivot center.  Then get a longer bolt, larger washer, self locking nut, or something to increase the friction at that pivot point!!!  It wouldn't take much!!

6.  If all else failed or an emergency - then I use C36 Tom's clamp fix. 

A few thoughts.   :cry4`

Ron, Apache #788