Anchor Windlass

[Wayne]

Scotty, I don't have a picture that shows my windlass sticking up through the hole in the anchor locker door, but I would bet that if you go to Yachtworld.com and look for 2000 or later c34s for sale you'll find a picture.  I would bet that the c36 windlass is set up the same way.  Basically, the vertical windlass is mounted on a flat horizontal platform that is a recessed part of the deck and located under the hatch.  The control switch is located here, too.  The drum of the windlass sticks up through a hole molded into the hatch; the motor, clutch, etc are all below the hatch when the hatch is closed.

[Wayne]

Hey Scotty, I was just catching up on my forum reading and . . . Open the recent posting regarding 'Anchor Fit on a C 34'.  The first picture shows an anchor locker with the windlass drum sticking up.  I think its just the picture you were looking for.

[scotty]

Great, Thanks!  I looked at YachtWorld and saw a 2006 C34 with excellent pictures.  My only problem is that the boat was so beautiful that I now have lust in my heart.  I also now have a lot of information to sift through.  Luckily I'm not going to start this project for a while so I have time to think.  I took the time to download a copy of the Tech Notes index onto a word processing file.  I think it will help find stuff.  Thanks for that advise (Ron).

My 1987 doesn't have a fitting (or cleat) dedicated to tie off the bitter end of the anchor line.  I was curious if that is common on the Mk I?  How have other skippers addressed this?

[Stu Jackson]

1.   I took the time to download a copy of the Tech Notes index onto a word processing file.  I think it will help find stuff.  Thanks for that advise (Ron).

2.  My 1987 doesn't have a fitting (or cleat) dedicated to tie off the bitter end of the anchor line.  I was curious if that is common on the Mk I?  How have other skippers addressed this?

1.  That's a good idea to do.  However, you could also download the entire KNOWLEDGEBASE from the Tech Tips Online page.  It's an XLS file, so using ctrl-F helps find stuff.  The Knowledgebase includes not only the Tech Notes, but also the Projects and FAQs (the original pages which are still available here via the Tech wiki), so there's even more information available.

2.  None came with the boat.  We have a simple plastic garden hose holder for our rode bolted thru the aft wall, and the rode tied to that.  I have yet to ever have to anchor in a depth where anywhere near the end of our rode would threaten to have the end come anywhere near.  Get longer rode, or bolt a U bolt thru and tie 'er up.

[Ron Hill]

Scotty : Be careful as you don't have the anchor well of some of the installations that have been posted.  Look at Stu's post and you have MY anchor well (1986/1987/1988).  
Another thing is that the factory installation came with a drum and no chain gypsy.  I would have liked both, but it would have lowered my installation or I would have had to put a hole in the one side anchor well door with for drum to stick out.

You asked me about the space between the finished plywood and the other plywood.  Mine were together (the inner was caulked to the outer side of the anchor well pan) and a friends 1989 had an inch space between.  I'll guess that it depends on the day they were building the boat and how things were going together!?!

None of the early 86/87/88 boats had a cleat in the anchor well like the 1989 C34s (and later).  That cleat may be nice, but I'm not too sure of it's actual strength.  I seriously doubt that if you thru out the anchor in a storm and didn't cleat a premausured rode that if the line ran out to the end that that cleat would hold under a strain like that!!  Don't know, but doubt it would hold.  I have a big turks head knot in the end of my nylon.

My advise for you is to follow my instructions (Stu's site) and take that finished and the other plywood Vberth panels out.  Only then will you know the spacing and the thickness of the two pieces of plywood.  Then decide where you want the solenoid and how to route the wiring.

Hope this helps.  

[2ndwish]

I don't want to stick my neck out since I haven't completed this install, but I went under the V-berth and was able pass my hand through the gap between the v-berth above me and the anchor well. I was able to feel that the two bulkheads were in contact. I then removed the starboard naugahyde wire chase bottom and was able to slip my hand in and feel the two bulkheads were in contact at the top. So I concluded, if they are in contact on the bottom and in contact on the top... This was all done on the starboard side, so it it is still possible the port side is different. Since there are so few screws to remove to take out the decorative bulkhead, I assumed we would do it anyway just to be sure.
Todd

[Ron Hill]

Guys : Todd's got a great point and I suspect that the two pieces of plywood would/should probablly be together for strength!  If there is a space it's because the guy that cut the plywood - screwed up.  That's my best guess.

Again, the only way to know for sure is to take the shelf out, remove the wire chase & teal inside trim, and take the top fwd teak finishing piece off.  Then you'll know for sure !!!!