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Author Topic: Balmar 912-75 and Universal 25xp  (Read 20913 times)

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dpenz

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« Reply #30 on: October 01, 2003, 02:10:24 PM »

Phillips head screws are designed so that the screwdriver will "cam out" or release before the torque becomes high enough to break the screw.  If you have enough clearance for a screwdriver, you may have enough clearance to use a hand impact tool with a Phillips bit.  The harder you swing your hammer, the more torque you can apply and the more seating force for the bit.  This technique is more likely to result in fewer damaged screws, though you do need sufficient clearance for the tool.
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Gene Regan

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« Reply #31 on: October 23, 2003, 05:26:57 PM »

Zephyr,
   My understanding is that its most important to have more weight on the forward portion of the keel than the rear end as the stern of the boat is heaver than the frt.
   I also believe there is somthing in the manual on storage procedures and blocking.placement of the stands is also very important, refer to cradle positionimg in the diagram in the manual, stands should be in the same areas.
 
 Good luck
 Gene Regan
 Freedom 713
 
 gene regan
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Zephyr

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« Reply #32 on: November 01, 2003, 04:28:22 PM »

Gene: Thanks for your info (been out of town and just back to planning the winter)
 Frank
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saltydog

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« Reply #33 on: November 02, 2003, 05:08:43 PM »

So, we can sail in neutral?
 
 Jeff
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rirvine

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« Reply #34 on: November 02, 2003, 06:51:28 PM »

If you sail with you gearbox in neutral, I suggest that you check the temperature of the gearbox (with your fingers will do).  You will find it get warm to hot after you have been sailing for a few hours.   Do not know if that does any damage, but I worry about things that get hot.  Even with a feathering Prop, I have learned to always sail with the gearbox in reverse to prevent to prop from un-feathering for any reason.
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rirvine

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« Reply #35 on: November 03, 2003, 08:57:05 PM »

Ron:  All good points – change the oil often etc.  As for the gearbox being warm, I found that by chance after sailing in neutral for about 2 hours.  I was check to make sure the prop had feathered – was the shaft turning?  The shaft was not warm only the gearbox. Just my 2 cents.
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Ken Juul

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« Reply #36 on: November 04, 2003, 06:59:34 AM »

From the on line Universal diesel page
 
 http://www.marinedieseldirect.com/universal/200157/universal-owners-hurth-transmission.html
 
 UNIVERSAL DIESEL WITH HURTH TRANSMISSION
 Model HBW-50 (2:1)
 Used on Models 12, M2-12, M-18, M3-20, M4-30, M25 and M-25XP
 
 Model HBW-100 (1.8:1)
 Used on Models 30, 35, and 40
 
 
 CAUTION
 DO NOT LEAVE GEAR IN FORWARD WHEN SAILING. GEAR MUST BE IN NEUTRAL FOR FREE WHEELING OR SHIFTED INTO REVERSE TO LOCK PROPELLER WHILE SAILING.
 
 CAUTION: TRANSMISSION MUST BE LEFT IN NEUTRAL WHEN SAILING, DO NOT LEAVE IN FORWARD GEAR WHEN SAILING WITHOUT POWER AS IT WILL DAMAGE GEAR.
 
 They mention twice not to leave it in forward, Neutral or reverse when sailing.  Think this horse is dead, we should stop beating it.
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Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Tom P, IMPULSE #233, '86

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« Reply #37 on: November 22, 2003, 05:40:53 PM »

Yea Ron, I agree with you...I believe adding another filter (inline filer) would be a lot more hassle than it's worth...More spilled fuel, another spare part to keep onboard, another part number/supplier to keep track of, etc...
 
 Lets face it, the crud I cleaned from the Racor check valve was probably over 16 years in the making...So why add another item to help with this problem...I believe in the K.I.S.S. theory; Keep It Simple Stupid...
 
 It only took a few minutes to unbolt the Racor from the bulkhead, and 20 minutes to clean the 16+ yrs of old crud...
 
 If you performed this check once every year or two, it would take less than 30 minutes to perform...
 
 I say K.I.S.S.!!!
 
 Tom
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Mike Smith

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« Reply #38 on: December 12, 2003, 07:25:06 AM »

Lowe's has 'em too.
 
 Mike
 
 Mike and Jan Smith
 S/V Breezer WCX8545
 www.mikejansmith.com
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PHIL YATES

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« Reply #39 on: December 13, 2003, 11:35:40 AM »

Ron,
 Thanks for your input on the  fuel tank, as a winter project in cleaning , as I am sure after 17 years, the ECLIPSE #22 does need cleaning.
 I've been lucky for sometime now and have no  problems with my fuil flow and also my fuel goes to my pump first then to the racor, which I will change, one other word, several yrs ago I installed a new pump and failed to hook up the 12 v. to it, and found out a month later that the engine ran just fine without it.The fuel  gravity fed to the racor.
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PHIL YATES

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« Reply #40 on: December 14, 2003, 11:23:48 AM »

Ron.
 
 You rite about the fuse on the bilge float, as I fused it,but have not the elec. fuel pump, thanks  for the reminder, I have to replace the gage while I'm at it, as it has not worked for some years now.
 thanks again
 phil
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Tweetybd

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« Reply #41 on: December 24, 2003, 06:06:21 PM »

May the wind at your back not be your own.
 
 Happy Holidays!
 
 Jon
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sail4dale

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« Reply #42 on: December 30, 2003, 11:39:21 PM »

I believe you just want to let air in to enable a faster drain.  If so just loosen the slotted screw.  I believe this screw is access to the ball check that is in the inlet line and this will let air into the bowl area.
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Mike and Theresa Vaccaro

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« Reply #43 on: December 31, 2003, 07:00:49 AM »

Vic,
 
 If you leave the cup on the bottom installed, you can also just loosen the filter a bit (so you can turn it by hand), and then slip a coffee can or another container around it, unscrew it, and let it drop into the container fuel and all.  
 
 Might want to consider shutting off the fuel flow at the tank (can access through the Beckson port in the port lazerette--outboard and forward), although this isn't always necessary--especially if you work fast!
 
 A couple old rags in the bilge below the filter will handle any spills.
 
 When you change the filter, reinstall the cup and then fill the filter/cup assembly up with fuel prior to screwing it back on--this will minimize the time required to prime the system as well as expediting the bleed process.  Don't overtighten (as a technique, I don't use a wrench when installing filters--hand tighten only, if access allows).  Bleeding instructions are contained in the Universal Owner's Manual.
 
 Good Luck and Happy New Year,
 
 Mike
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Aaron

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« Reply #44 on: February 15, 2004, 06:24:18 AM »

Ron.
  I just purchased two oil filters from the local kubota dealer#70000-15241. Are you saying that I need to take these back and find the new #'s or are these are still usable. Aaron.
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