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Author Topic: Exhaust Riser & Harness  (Read 1688 times)

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dave davis

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Exhaust Riser & Harness
« on: August 19, 2001, 07:47:46 PM »

This is a copy of a Email that was written by Ron Hill. This is also a test to see if this will work.
 
 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 19:06:26 -0400
         
 
 
 
 Jeff :  I'm traveling and don't have my files with me on this laptop,
 but
 think I wrote about changing the riser in the Mainsheet (titled-Dollar
 Bill
 Test). Why are you removing the riser?  Most of the problems are where
 the
 raw water enters the riser - that weld fails and you can see the
 crack/leak.
 The other failure is where the riser is screwed into the flange.  If
 it's
 just for preventive maintenance, I wouldn't touch the flange if it
 isn't
 leaking and just have an extra bead welded around where the raw water
 nipple
 enters the large exhaust riser  s.s.  pipe. In fact have that nipple
 welded
 on the outside as well as the INSIDE.  That will really strengthen the
 "weakest link".  Use some liquid wrench on the three flange nuts
 (9/16"?)and
 let it set overnight.  They should come right off.  Make sure that you
 use
 some "anti seize" on the threads when you replace them.  I talked to
 Gerry
 Douglas and told him that I suspect that that nipple weld fails because
 they
 used stiff wire reinforced hose.  The hose angles are not acute so
 nylon
 reinforced hose(which is much more flexible) could be used.  Nylon/cord
 reinforced hose would take up some of the vibration (like the hump
 hose)
 rather than transmitting it all to that nipple. If your old hose from
 the
 anti-siphon to the nipple is OK use it as it's become flexible "over
 time".
 If you don't have a "hump hose" now is the time to install one.  Also
 inspect the inlet to the muffler and maybe add a little glass to beefup
 the
 inlet tube.  After you have the riser welded take it to a radiator shop
 and
 have it pressure checked for leaks - if it will hold 5 psi for 1 minute
 or
 less - it's OK. That will let you know that the other welds under the
 insulation are also solid.
 
 On the wiring harness upgrade you might look at changing to the new
 instrument panel and hard wiring the harness to the panel rather than
 using
 the "Euro Connector".  You really only need the connector at the engine
 to
 make it easier if you have to remove the engine - for whatever the
 reason.
 Some people have hard wired both ends.  Make sure that you leave about
 1/4
 inch of wire on either side of the old connector so you can check the
 wire
 colors.  Don't be surprised if the colors of the wires don't match -
 because
 they won't!!  If your wire is short, go under the aft cabin and cut
 some of
 the wire ties to gain some more length - then retie the wires back up.  
 Make
 sure that you tin the ends of the wire going into the Euro Connector.  
 Do
 only do one wire at a time - cut both sides, tin both sides and then
 connect
 both sides before moving to the next wire.  As I recall there are 3
 wires
 that aren't connected thru the old "trailer connector" - the electric
 fuel
 pump, the fuel gage and one other (sense wire for the alternator??).  
 Some
 of the electrical "Gurus" have told me that it's best to file off the
 points
 of the connector screws, as a flat head gains the best connection.
 
 To clean the inside of the heat exchanger use the household cleaner  
 "Lime".
 Your boat is of the age you might as well get the "Semdure" end
 cap/gasket
 kit.  Look for that kit # in the "Tips" that I wrote in the Mainsheet.
 
 Think that I've given you enough to munch on for awhile.  Hope that you
 don't mind sharing some of the dialog we've been having with the two
 Daves.
 
 Too bad I can't put this on the C34 Net, but when traveling there isn't
 any
 place that will let you go on line for that long while composing!!  
 This
 info might save some others some work when they're trying to do the
 same
 thing.  So be it, as we've only got this "Great" Message Board, which
 only
 helps the people reading/looking  rather than the people writing the
 answers
 and contributing!!!  Maybe that's why they don't contribute - it's just
 too
 tough and it's easier to be spoon fed; even though they've done the
 same fix
 and found  a slightly different twist!  You can't believe how much I've
 added/edited  as I reread this reply, and THANK the Lord for spell
 check.
 
 Let me know if you have any other questions.   Ron  APACHE  #788
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Dave Davis San Francisco, 707, Wind Dragon, 1988, South Beach

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How to draft a post offline
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2001, 09:26:26 PM »

Ron -
 
 You really don't have to be online to write a post.  Just write it in Word offline, then when you want to post the message just copy from the Word document. Dave Davis did this for you, but as you can see, when you copy from an email rather than Word, the hard returns get copied too and it doesn't look very pretty.  
 
 Try composing in Word (or WordPerfect) and then copying.  It just takes an extra few seconds and the rest of can then partake of your wisdom (this also is a neat way to make sure you've spelled everything correctly).
 
 Dave Smith
 webmaster@c34.org
 Bear Territory #1421
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