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Author Topic: Exhaust Riser & Harness  (Read 1723 times)

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dave davis

  • C34IA - Past Commodore
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Exhaust Riser & Harness
« on: August 19, 2001, 07:47:46 PM »

This is a copy of a Email that was written by Ron Hill. This is also a test to see if this will work.
 Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2001 19:06:26 -0400
 Jeff :  I'm traveling and don't have my files with me on this laptop,
 think I wrote about changing the riser in the Mainsheet (titled-Dollar
 Test). Why are you removing the riser?  Most of the problems are where
 raw water enters the riser - that weld fails and you can see the
 The other failure is where the riser is screwed into the flange.  If
 just for preventive maintenance, I wouldn't touch the flange if it
 leaking and just have an extra bead welded around where the raw water
 enters the large exhaust riser  s.s.  pipe. In fact have that nipple
 on the outside as well as the INSIDE.  That will really strengthen the
 "weakest link".  Use some liquid wrench on the three flange nuts
 let it set overnight.  They should come right off.  Make sure that you
 some "anti seize" on the threads when you replace them.  I talked to
 Douglas and told him that I suspect that that nipple weld fails because
 used stiff wire reinforced hose.  The hose angles are not acute so
 reinforced hose(which is much more flexible) could be used.  Nylon/cord
 reinforced hose would take up some of the vibration (like the hump
 rather than transmitting it all to that nipple. If your old hose from
 anti-siphon to the nipple is OK use it as it's become flexible "over
 If you don't have a "hump hose" now is the time to install one.  Also
 inspect the inlet to the muffler and maybe add a little glass to beefup
 inlet tube.  After you have the riser welded take it to a radiator shop
 have it pressure checked for leaks - if it will hold 5 psi for 1 minute
 less - it's OK. That will let you know that the other welds under the
 insulation are also solid.
 On the wiring harness upgrade you might look at changing to the new
 instrument panel and hard wiring the harness to the panel rather than
 the "Euro Connector".  You really only need the connector at the engine
 make it easier if you have to remove the engine - for whatever the
 Some people have hard wired both ends.  Make sure that you leave about
 inch of wire on either side of the old connector so you can check the
 colors.  Don't be surprised if the colors of the wires don't match -
 they won't!!  If your wire is short, go under the aft cabin and cut
 some of
 the wire ties to gain some more length - then retie the wires back up.  
 sure that you tin the ends of the wire going into the Euro Connector.  
 only do one wire at a time - cut both sides, tin both sides and then
 both sides before moving to the next wire.  As I recall there are 3
 that aren't connected thru the old "trailer connector" - the electric
 pump, the fuel gage and one other (sense wire for the alternator??).  
 of the electrical "Gurus" have told me that it's best to file off the
 of the connector screws, as a flat head gains the best connection.
 To clean the inside of the heat exchanger use the household cleaner  
 Your boat is of the age you might as well get the "Semdure" end
 kit.  Look for that kit # in the "Tips" that I wrote in the Mainsheet.
 Think that I've given you enough to munch on for awhile.  Hope that you
 don't mind sharing some of the dialog we've been having with the two
 Too bad I can't put this on the C34 Net, but when traveling there isn't
 place that will let you go on line for that long while composing!!  
 info might save some others some work when they're trying to do the
 thing.  So be it, as we've only got this "Great" Message Board, which
 helps the people reading/looking  rather than the people writing the
 and contributing!!!  Maybe that's why they don't contribute - it's just
 tough and it's easier to be spoon fed; even though they've done the
 same fix
 and found  a slightly different twist!  You can't believe how much I've
 added/edited  as I reread this reply, and THANK the Lord for spell
 Let me know if you have any other questions.   Ron  APACHE  #788
Dave Davis San Francisco, 707, Wind Dragon, 1988, South Beach


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How to draft a post offline
« Reply #1 on: August 19, 2001, 09:26:26 PM »

Ron -
 You really don't have to be online to write a post.  Just write it in Word offline, then when you want to post the message just copy from the Word document. Dave Davis did this for you, but as you can see, when you copy from an email rather than Word, the hard returns get copied too and it doesn't look very pretty.  
 Try composing in Word (or WordPerfect) and then copying.  It just takes an extra few seconds and the rest of can then partake of your wisdom (this also is a neat way to make sure you've spelled everything correctly).
 Dave Smith
 Bear Territory #1421
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