Stanchion Blocks for Furling Line

[Steve S.]

Hi Gang:

I have a Hood 915 continuous line furler and I still have the old stanchion mounted double swivel blocks to lead the line back.  This means the line is still on the inside of the life lines and a real trip hazard.  I would like to move the line outside of the life lines but every brand of stanchion block I see would require that I cut the furling line and re-splice, something I would prefer not to do.  

How have others handled this situation?

Thanx,

[Ron Hill]

Steve : I had that system and know of no way to get that line on the outside of the stanchions inside a block without re-splicing.
You could run some of it outside the stanchions, but the line wouldn't be inside a block and would friction against the stanchion.
Think your best bet is to get a couple more of the inside blocks (like you already have) to keep it against the inside of each stanchion.   I've got a couple in my attic I'll give you when I get back in mid June.

The splice in that continuous line is a tricky splice to make.  I'll guess that 90% of all riggers don't know how to make a "braid on braid, same diameter, end to end (continuous) splice".  In-fact I had to get Yale Cordage to send me special instructions so I could make one, as most splicing books don't have one in their books.  My splice was "fair" in quality.  Get youself new line, don't try that splice with your 18 year old line!

Another consideration is getting the Hood drum drive.  You only need the drum piece and Hood will give you a trade in.  Then you can get the Garhauer BB stanchion blocks for the line - on the outside.

A few thoughts.  

[Ted Pounds]

I just did that splice on mine using the directions from Hood and it came out fine.  I had to do it to replace my old furling line.  The key is to do it on NEW line.  I have found it is VERY difficult to splice line that has been in service for even a few years.

[John Gardner]

Ted,
Do you  have the Hood instructions to share?
John

[Ron Hill]

John : If you contact any company that makes line (or Hood) and ask them, they'll send you instructions on how to make a "end for end, constant diameter, for a braid on braid line"  

[John Gardner]

Ron,

When I replaced the line just over 2 seasons ago, I explored all the web sites for line vendors, and others, and found it not commonly mentioned, and the descriptions I found all had their differences.  Granted, a direct question to the line vendors might elicit a few more descriptions.  Based on what I found I made a splice that lasted a few months.  I searched again, found nothing new, and adapted what I thought was the most likely solution.  It is still giving service, yet I feel it may not be quite as good as it could be.

So I wondered what Hood had to offer.

John

[Ron Hill]

John : As I previously mentioned that is such an uncommon splice that it's not normally published in most of the splicing literature/books.  
I called Yale cordage and talked to their customer service and they sent me a pamphlet.  You might also talk to the cordage people at the Boat Show.  
Call Hood - I'm sure they have some info.

[Ted Pounds]

John,

I do have the instructions, but my scanner is broken.  You can call Hood (look up the number on line) and they'll send you a copy of the whole manual which has the spicing instruction in it.  The manual is handy to have anyway if you need parts or to do repairs.