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Author Topic: Engine Compartment Insulation  (Read 3289 times)

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mcmagic1

  • Guest
Engine Compartment Insulation
« on: July 24, 2001, 02:48:06 PM »

We need to replace our engine compartment insulation.  The only material I've found is West Marine's Noise Control Barrier Material, catalog pg 327.  It is available in 1/2" and 1" thick sheets (32" X 54").  I'm assuming the 1" thick would be better and that I'll need two sheets.  Has anyone used this material from West Marine? If so, I'd appreciate your comments.  Also, does anyone have other recommended materials and sources?  Any info and do's and don'ts will be appreciated.
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bobmack

  • Guest
Engine Compartment Insulation
« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2001, 06:05:02 AM »

I replaced my insulation many years ago using the 1" thick material available from West Marine. Fairly easy job, although a little messy since you have to remove the old stuff and clean the wood surfaces fairly well. I used 3M Super adhesive spray with no additional fasteners and its been on for about 8 years now with no signs of either deterioration or loosening. Take good measurements and use the sharpest thin blade knife or razor blade you can find along with a good metal straight edge for a clean, straight cut. Don't force the cut or the blade will grab the material and tear it. Glue per instructions.
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cholder

  • Guest
Engine compartment insulation
« Reply #2 on: July 26, 2001, 05:34:54 AM »

I didn't use West Marine's insulation because I had other less expensive sources of the same 1" material.  Local vendors advised use of 3M's 777 foam adhesive (available at Home Depot) but I chose to do much as Catalina had done, that is double sided tape (try carpet tape) and screws with oversize washers.
 
 Some things I did differently than Catalina:
 
 1. I taped all the edges for a neater finish.
 2. I didn't extend the side insulation to the floor.  Instead I left about an inch so it is easier to clean up the engine space.
 3. I put insulation on the two small doors.  
 4. I also put insulation on the about 2 ft square panel in the head (the one with the shower drain swith) to cut down noise in the head area.
 5. I added insulation onto the sides of the boxout in the aft cabin (keep the insulation a few inches clear of the exhaust pipe) and made up a panel to roughly close off the space around the shaft.
 
 The last two made a big difference to the noise levels in the boat.
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mhazlett

  • Guest
Engine insulation
« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2001, 11:05:51 PM »

I used the West Marine material like Bob Mack but with screws and big washers as well as adhesive like Charles Holder. Big areas where I used only adhesive earlier separated in some places so I think the screws are a good idea. The West Marine roll seemed expensive but I couldn't find anything similar at auto supply stores, etc.
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