Replacing Adler Barbour refrigeration

[Roland Gendreau]

The AB refrigeration system on our 1992 is mounted in the starboard lazarette has sustained mortal amounts of corrosion so it is inoperative and needs to be replaced.   Before I install a new system (AB or Isotherm or Sea Frost) in the same location, I'd like to know if others out there with the open transom models have either found a way to prevent units mounted in that location from deteriorating from corrosion damage, or mounted somewhere else where it didn't take up valuable storage space or had thermal issues.

By the way, an advantage of the Sea Frost unit is that it does have some nice packaging that should shield it from exposure to rain/seawater

Roland Gendreau
Gratitude #1183

[Jim Price]

I have an Isotherm water cooled located under starboard settee just forward of starboard water tank.  Takes some storage space but it is space that would not be used often because of location.  Boat is 1991 with walk-thru.

[Stu Jackson]

Roland

No matter where you install the unit, remember to consider ventilation.  Many early boats had the units installed under the forward portion of the starboard settee.  Many skippers had to add vents in the vertical face of the supporting fiberglass under the seat.  Jim's location is very good if you don't have a battery there, but would require a grille or louver of some kind.  Good luck,

[mike lofstrom]

Roland,  My boat is a 1992 open transom.  We have the original Norcolder fridge unit mounted under the forward dinette.  It still works great, (knock on wood!),  but I have improved the ventilation in that area to keep the temperature down.  The lazerette on the open transom boats is a pretty inaccessible place. Catalina must have figured it was wasted space, so it was a good place for the compressor.  One of these days, I might look into taking the back off of the hanging locker in the aft cabin to see if I can improve the access to the lazerette through there.  The Hanging locker is kinda useless, it is really too small to use for much storage.

Good luck!

[Jim Price]

I actually do not have any vents where the Isotherm is located.  The unit is a highly efficient, extremely low heat unit that is water cooled.  Of course I do have water coming from a sea cock and I do have a outlet hole in hull above water line for drainage.  My unit was replaced by Isotherm last year and is much better that the original 92 model that went bonkers.  I do have a third battery that drives the Isotherm under forward dinette settee and I have a Air/Heat system outlet (6" x 12" ??) under forward dinette settee where the battery is located.  Not saying you should not have a vent, just that my model does not generate hardly any heat at all and with water cool, don't need same air flow.  

[Gene Regan]

Have mine installed in starbord setee front  at bulkhead and teak vent with 12 volt computer fan . Keeps it dry in the whole compartment and no condensation and no rust 3 years now. also helps ventilate the starter battery in there as well. Unit keeps cool and is also quiet enough there not to bother us when down below.

[Stu Jackson]

Jim, you're right if it's a water cooled model.  If it's air cooled it'll be helpful to have vents.

[Roland Gendreau]

Thanks for the help guys.  On my 1992, the cover for the starboard Lazarette is not gasketted in any way and in fact there are notches molded into the base of the opening that probably would render any gasketing ineffective.  Has anyone found a way to prevent water from leaking into the lazarette?  

I had a local refrig system guy at the boat today and he recommended either locating the new unit on a shelf off of the wall of the lazarette compartment (to get it out of the way of water leaking around the cover) or locating in one of the settee compartments (which I am trying to avoid because of tight storage space). I have a starting battery in the starboard settee compartment). The V berth is a possibility.

Another recommendation he made was to purchase a Sea Frost unit (instead of the AB), as it comes packaged in a fiberglass enclosure to protect the compressor and other parts.  Mounting it off of the wall in the lazarette might work.  But I'd like to hear how to make the lazarette cover more water tight.

Thanks

Roland

[Ron Hill]

Roland : I think that your refrigeration guy has given you some good ideas.  
I believe that you need to concentrate on keeping water out of that aft compartment - or you're still going to own an UNUSABLE lazerette.  

[mike lofstrom]

Roland:  As I mentioned in my previous post, I have a 1992 boat also.  When Catalina put the walk through transom on the Mark 1 boats, they lazerette access was reduced to "nearly impossible".  The ventilation in this area is also very poor.  There are only two clamshell vents for this part of the boat, and both of them have hoses that are designed to provide ventilation into and out of the bilge.  There isn't a good way for the lazerette to ever really dry out.  As a result, the lazerette turns into a steam room.  This may be part of the problem that you have experienced on your boat.  I have seen several newer Catalinas where additional clamshells are installed on the upper flat part of the transom above the swim step.  This seems like a really good idea.  ( It is on my to-do list).  Not only would it lower the temperature in the lazerette, it would also help dry this area out better.  Just a thought......

[Stu Jackson]

Mark I boats had the same leaky issues at the port locker and lazarette.  The main website had an FAQ on this hundreds of years ago:  use weatherstripping.  You could use 3/8 inch foam from a hardware store, or go to an automotive store and get really good rubber stripping.

It's worked for us and may work for you, but I am not that familiar with the details of the rims of the lockers on your Mark II.

[Roland Gendreau]

I'll see what can be done to weather strip the Mark2 lazarette cover.

To improve ventilation in the Mark 2 lazarette, I am thinking of ducting the outlet of the Sea Frost condenser to one of the hoses that vents the bilge.

The Sea Frost also has a fiberglass enclosure that would shield it from drips.  I am thinking that ducting the outlet of the unit to the clamshell would vent the lazarette/bilge, keep the unit dried out  as well get rid of the heat.

Also, the existing AB unit is mounted on a platform such that any water leaking might pool around it. So mounting the new unit raised up a bit on some blocks would keep it out of any water that might leak in.

The good thing is that all the local vendors are running boat show sales on the refrigeration units right now!

Roland Gendreau

[Stu Jackson]

Roland

"The good thing is that all the local vendors are running boat show sales on the refrigeration units right now! "

Then use their expertise and ask them how to best vent their units.  For instance, Alder Barbour has a special ducting kit for their units.  Other vendors may have similar packages and certainly should have the experience to help you out.  Good luck, and happy buying spree  

[Ron Hill]

Roland : There's alot better strip insulation out there than foam stripping.  Foam is too fragile.  All you need is a strip 3/8 to 1/2 inch on the top of the compartment lip, to make a good seal.