Print

Please login or register.

[kerk fisher]

A primary anchor Super Max 15 HD #28 with adjustable shank came with the boat we just purchased (secondary is the FX-16). I've been following anchor talk recently here and no one is mentioning the Super Max. We have mud, clay, weeds in the North Channel. Anyone have experience with this anchor, or have people opted to not use it for some reason? I LOVE THIS WEBSITE>THANKS EVERYONE.  After a season of sailing our new 34 perhaps I'll be able to be on the answering side, not just asking. Kerk

[captran]

I have no experience with the supermax but the fx-16 is for a 33-38 foot boat in winds to 30 knots.  they suggest in storm conditions to size up to fx  23 or the 37.     http://www.fortressanchors.com/fortress_anchor_guide.html

But the fx 37 doesn't fit inside the anchor well, but if it's blowing 50 knows and threes a 4 foot chop, you sleep better.  I have mounted mine on the top rail of the bow pulpit, which means when you retrieve the anchor you have to bring it up through the pulpit, which is a major hassle.  Not sure I'll do this in the NW, but in the Bahamas in storm season I wouldn't be without it.

Maybe the max is your storm anchor.  Some good evals in practical sailor.

Randy Thies
Voyager #1345

[Stu Jackson]

Randy

You mentioned that you have to haul your Danforth anchor up through the pulpit.  We keep our regular Bruce on the port bow roller all the time, with a 22# Danforth inside the anchor locker with chain always attached.  I have the rode in the lazarette ready to shackle onto the Danforth.  We also have a high tensile Danforth in the anchor locker, with chain and separate rode aft.  My Danforth anchor holder is on the starboard side of the pulpit on the horizontal part.

When we use the Danforth, and when retrieving it, I don’t go through the pulpit.  Instead, I pull it up onto the starboard roller.  Then I lean out over the pulpit, or through it (depending on how my back feels!) and raise it up to fit onto the holder.  The shank of the anchor hangs down and it is ready to go again, with the chain fair led outside and through the roller.  I can tie off the shank to the pulpit base with bungee cord to keep it from flopping around.  An alternative would be to place the holder low on a pulpit stanchion (with the different angled holder because it's on a vertical tube, not the horizontal stanchion tube) and have the flukes down and the shank up, but either way, the anchor doesn’t have to be threaded through the pulpit.  In fact, when starting out, it's easier to lead the chain through the pulpit than the anchor, then connect the rode and splash the anchor from outside the pulpit.  Hope that’s clear.  Works if you have separate rode for first deployement, but still works when retrieving.

Kerk

Keep asking away, that's how we all got started.

You'll hear lots of opinions on anchors, and heavier is always better.  In addition to this forum, I recommend that you do your research on different anchors, and actually try yours out in places that you normally anchor, and back down really hard with your engine to see how it sets.  There are lots of anchoring books, spend some time in a marine store and browse through them.  www.catalinaowners.com and sailnet also have articles about anchors and anchoring.  Also, chat with other "locals" and see if they have any opinions, as I'm sure they will.  You can never have too many anchors on board.  All the best.

[Ron Hill]

Kerk : I've found that anchors are one of those "Religion and Politics" type topics - everyone has their own favorite.  I have two anchors (Bruce 33 and a Danforth 18) with chain and road on the topside ready to immediately deploy.  There's a extra Danforth 25 stored in the anchor well.  You'll have to determine your own "comfort level".
I've heard good things about the MAX and Super MAX.  

Let me relay a comment made by someone on this web site 4/5 years ago ref. the MAX anchor's appearance:
 
"Beauty may be only skin deep, but remember that ugly goes all the way down to the bone" !!  (smile - if it works for you!!)  

[SailDan]

Stu, et. al,
(1) Number of bow anchor rollers? - I noted in your (Stu's) reply to Kerk's question that you refer to "port" bow and "starboard" anchor rollers.  Weal Sea (1994, C-34) has only one bow roller which I believe is standard.  Did you add a second bow roller?

(2) Anchoring Bahamian Style -  How does one run a second anchor off the bow if you only have a single anchor roller?... or don't you?

[Stu Jackson]

Dan

I have the original two bow rollers that came with the boat.  The older boat's bow rollers we called and still call TOY BOW ROLLERS. They're small.  Ron was one of the first to document installing the larger roller.  The newer boats have one bigger legitimate bow roller.  Since I don't have a 35# anchor, I can still get away with the smaller original rollers.

To run a second anchor off, you really don't need to go through the rollers.  I installed a second bow cleat since the old boats only came with one in the center.  No reason you can't go from a cleat directly overboard.  Our C25 had no roller, so we just ran the anchor line overboard from the foredeck cleat.  If you're concerned with chafe, add rub strakes at the sides of the foredeck.  If your single roller is wide enough, you could run both rodes through it.

I would guess that folks with more difficult anchoring conditions would be better able to answer your questions.  We have the "luxury" here of 12 to 15 foot depths, almost no (or very few) opposed wind and current anchorages, and the wind is usually from one direction or calm, rarely changes overnight, and we don't have afternoon thunderstorms, etc.  It is not challenging, and I'm very good at it  

[kerk fisher]

Ron, still laughing about your comment on the ugliness of the MAX. Great to have a good laugh out loud moment every once in a while.  Thanks. Kerk

[captran]

So does that mean the dual anchor roller on my 1997 was installed later?  One of the rollers is alittle smaller than the other.  I have the bruce on the starboard roller and the fortress rode on the port side.  The port side is (I think) a tad smaller.  Memory does fade.  I used to do a running moor, dropping the stern anchor while entering the anchorage, when it dug in I would run to the bow and drop the bow anchor,  Then take the stern line up to the bow as the boat fell off.  I did this for three months single handing, even under sail (when the motor went out), and it both set the anchors well and allowed  for getting both anchors out without the dingy.  I do wish there was room to keep both anchors on the rollers on the Catalina,  or room to keep the bigger fortress inside the anchor well.

[Ron Hill]

Guys : The C34s 1986 thru 1988 came with 2 short rollers.  One roller integrated on either side of the head stay/bow fitting.  
I modified mine back in 1994 so one side now incorporates a bow roller for my Bruce(see article and picture in May 95 Mainsheet tech notes & projects).  Now like Stu, I can have 2 anchors ready to deploy at a moments notice.  Another advantage of our older boats is that we have double anchor well door, both having "slots" to accommodate chain/rode going down into the anchor well (I also split my well to keep the rodes separated).  I hold my second anchor (danforth) in a chock (by its own weight) at the base of the bow pulpit opposite side of the Bruce.  All I have to do is lift the danforth out of the chock and deploy it.

The 1989 and later C34s (that came from the factory with only 1 roller)can add a short roller on the port side of the head stay to accommodate a second anchor.     [/list]