Engine Electrical Panel

[Lance Jones]

Ron, I did try your method of tilt and remove. However, the T-handle would not allow enough tilt. So, I'll try that method on Friday and see how that works. Trying to insure a good, clean connections on the starter button and ignition switch. Sometimes it starts fairly quickly while other times it just seems to barely turn over. Not a battery issue as my batteries, 2 banks with 3 on house and 1 on starter, stay charged at a good level even after a day and a half on the hook.

[Ken Juul]

It is a production boat, but some things like the engine T handle are installed individually.  I feel your pain Lance.  To get my instrument panel out of the caulked in recess, the T handle comes off, and the shut off cable must be unscrewed from the panel and pushed into the lazerette.  Not all the way, just a small nub of the shut off cable remains to pull it back in place.  That is the only way I can get enough clearance to get the instrument panel out.

[Lance Jones]

Thanks Ken.

[Stu Jackson]

Sometimes it starts fairly quickly while other times it just seems to barely turn over. Not a battery issue as my batteries, 2 banks with 3 on house and 1 on starter, stay charged at a good level even after a day and a half on the hook.

Have you checked the Critical Upgrades?  Engine ground connections and the starter fuseholder come to mind.

[Steve W10]

Hey guys, I'm with Ron on this one, perhaps it won't work on all boats, but I've found that after the panel is loose, a slight tip of the top to inboard to free it up a bit and I can easily bring out the forward side and manoeuvre the whole thing around the T-Handle (or in my case the threaded shaft  after my Herculean brother ripped it off :)  Anyone know a good place for a T-Handle?  (Just kidding, don't want to hijack this thread)

[2ndwish]

Just to add my voice to the choir... When we first pulled the panel last year, we also thought is was the t-handle binding, but careful inspection showed that it was the wiring on the back that were binding (Did you cut all of the cable ties holding the harness in place?). This is why we eventually added to the harness knowing it was just a matter of time before we were back there again. As for the slow starting- I echo Stu's sentiments, sounds like the starter fuse holder. The collective experience on 2ndWish is that the failure mode of the pushbutton switches is that they stick in the on position (not good, two if them did this).
T

[scotty]

If you need to hold the nuts, while turning the screws, you can use vise grip, needle nose pliers.  Yes, it's awkward, but it gets the job done if you're by yourself.  I emptied out the rear lazarette before I went in there.  It was a tight fit, but I could get to the back of the pannel.

[Lance Jones]

Most of you who get into that rear, or even port, lazarette must be midgets!

[scotty]

or contortionists.

[Ralph Masters]

It's not easy and not something I do for fun.  Been there several times, replaced all fuel hoses and fuel tank earlier this year.  And just ran wire for a NEMA2000 system last month.

Ralph
Ciao Bella

[Ron Hill]

Lance : On the slow to regular starting (if the batteries are OK) I'll bet that it's a bad battery cable connection - positive or negative.  Could be at the battery, or the starter solenoid, or at the engine ground.

The symptom of a bad or dirty fuse holder (to the starter solenoid) is that it works (connects) or it doesn't!
 
The symptom of a slow starter is that there is a connection, but not enough "juice"!!   A thought

   

[RV61]

Just had the same issue. I started at the batteries  then the 1&2 all switch them the starter and ground on engine and the fuse holder then up to engine electric panel in cockpit and cleaned and checked all connections. Was able to pull electric panel per Ron's description. I have the bolts and had to go down in the aft Laurette. Not sure which connection was the culprit as I forgot to start after each connection location cleaned however suspect it was a combo of the ground wire on engine was dirty and loose ground wire in electrical panel. Currently working on the dead high temp and oil alarm lights as they are burned out as well as figuring out why the alarm buzzers do not work. Spoke to Dennis at Seaward and Kent at Catalina for wiring diagram but have yet to find a  match for the 86 and  diagram upgrade years back. Looked on board and my manuals but could not find. Any help on diagram for an 86 would be great.   
Thanks

[Stu Jackson]

Spoke to Dennis at Seaward and Kent at Catalina for wiring diagram but have yet to find a  match for the 86 and  diagram upgrade years back. Looked on board and my manuals but could not find. Any help on diagram for an 86 would be great.   

Our C34 tech wiki has a wonderful array of information.  Like the engine wiring harness article, which includes the wiring diagrams you are looking for.  Look under "Engine."

[RV61]

Stu,
Thanks!!! .  It is exactly what I have been looking for!!! I had looked there previousley but I guess sometimes we cannot see something right in front of us.

On my 86 I thought that we had both a Water temp indicator light and an Low-Oil indicator light. The drawing of the 87 shows a Hi temp light but does not label the other.  With you being same vintage can you tell me what the other light was used to indicate? is it just a poer indicator that the key is on? Will trace back on my boat to try and figure out.

Thanks again.

[RV61]

This drawing just came in from Kent. It is the engine electrical control panel drawing for vintage catalinas with before and after wiring harnes up grade and going volt meter.