Replacement of Water Heater on 1989 C34

[BillR]

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

[Stu Jackson]

Bill

Start here:

http://www.c34ia.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=893&highlight=water+heater

Then do a Search on this message board (top, next to FAQs and member-list) on "water heater," and there are many topics you'll have to wade through.

That's the only downside of having an encyclopedia reference source, it takes longer, but it's mostly all there.

The main website and the tech notes index also have more information.

[APACHE]

Bill : Easily done with a Seaward 6 gal direct replacement.  You'll have to remove the side door and frame.
Don't waste your money on a stainless model as the galvanized model has the same "innards".  

[BillR]

Removal was no problem.  Once the door and trim was removed, the hoses disconnected (with all kinds of effort to capture the cooling fluid!), the old unit was easily removed.

Now for the fun, Seaward, in their wisdom, has since 1989, extended the mounting bracket on the side where power connects (port), to make the screws more easily accessable, by 1 inch thus the new 20 inch unit does not fit the 19 inch shelf.  You can not extend the shelf to starboard as the shelf changes heights to accomodate water plumbing, etc.  The only option is to extend the shelf to port.  I have fashioned a 1 inch block to add to the shelf, however, I have to check to see if that extension interferes with the waste basket that is on the door.  I'll let you know.  The only other option is to cut 1 inch off the stainless steel bracket and re-drill the holes.  Those of you that have worked with stainless understand that adding the inch is a better option.

[DEMERY]

Bill is right, Seaward did extend the mounting bracket and moved the hole further out. On my 1990, I was able to cut a new platform approximately 1 inch longer and mounted it on top of the existing one. Height was not a problem. Good Luck!

[APACHE]

Bill : I'm on the boat and believe I understand your problem.  Think what I'd try is redrill the holes.  If you have vertical clearance (to get it in & out) I'd also bend 1/2 to 1" of the port side mounting tab down and add a couple of horizontal screws to secure the heater.
Let me know if that's doable.  Stainless is fairly soft and bends easily.

[BillR]

I added an extension to the shelf, using a small piece of 2X4, where the bracket extends past the old shelf.  It is below the level of the trash can and, as the water heater itself is the same length as the older unit, allpw the door to close nicely.  Mission accomplished.

One additinal note.  I recommend that when you change the heater, you also replace the elbow joint and the sink connector along with any tubing that appears worn.  As soon as I put pressure on the elbow and sink joint it looked as if I had created fountains.  By the way, I replaced those with metal instead of plastic.