MkII Fixed Portlight Replacement

[Noah]

The factory window (at least on MKI) had a bevel on the edge, to allow for more sealant "sticking area". Something to be considered if you are cutting your own acrylic. Also, the OEM windows were/are acrylic not polycarbonate.

[Robert Mann]

Thanks Eric, I will check the beveled edge of my portlight to make sure I have enough bonding area with the VHB tape.  I like this idea better than a huge bed of Dowsil 795.

[waughoo]

Though I haven't done mine yet, I have pump up suction cups (4x) that have a camera 1/4-20 thread in the center.  The plan is to build some cleats that span the opening and use a wing nut and all thread to pull the windows in place so the sealant can cure.  The only issue is that I only have 4 so it will be a one at a time affair.

[justinsteele]

Eric, I've debated using VHB for the next job, which is the aft, starboard portlight.  On the MK II boats this aft unit is partially over the galley and partially in the rear cabin. This means there is a wide fibreglass area under the acrylic where the transition takes place. This will be a big white chunk that's visible using VHB. Is that the same on Mk I boats? If so how did you address that?

I didn't paint mine but that is a good idea. My windows are a fairly dark tint and you can't really see through them and notice it unless you are up close. Maybe once im fully uncovered and out in the sun I may have a different experience.

It's nice to no longer have the screws. I lined up and taped the old broken windows together and used that to make a template with some 1/4" plywood. cut to rough shape and run a router with a flush trim bit. Then I cleaned the templates up and had something secure to cut the polycarbonate with. My install looked exactly like the photos above.

[Jeff Tancock]

I too want to do this project..
Any opinions on getting the acrylic cut locally or buying from Catalina Direct?

I'm thinking VHB as well.
Justin and/or Eric...do you know what size VHB you used?
And after taping were you able to just press in the portlight and it set up and cured without a jig?
After that you were able to lay in a bead of sealant to completely fill the gap between the fiberglass inset and the new acrylic?

Thanks for any and all comments!

[waughoo]

Jeff,

I bought my replacements from the Catalina factory (actually spoke to Jerry Douglass who found some on the shelf and shipped them to me).  You could give them a call or an email to see if they can make you a new set.

[ewengstrom]

I too want to do this project..
Any opinions on getting the acrylic cut locally or buying from Catalina Direct?

I'm thinking VHB as well.
Justin and/or Eric...do you know what size VHB you used?
And after taping were you able to just press in the portlight and it set up and cured without a jig?
After that you were able to lay in a bead of sealant to completely fill the gap between the fiberglass inset and the new acrylic?

Jeff,
The bedding area is right at one inch if I remember correctly, I purchased 1" x 1/16" 3M VHB and I do remember that one roll was barely...and I mean BARELY enough to do both sides. Yes, you'll need to position the new window carefully before pressing it onto the tape, the initial bond is quite strong and only gets stronger over time. No clamping was required, the bond is enough to hold the new window securely while doing the caulk work.
I made sure there was enough of a gap for the caulk to stretch/shrink with temp changes and boat movement and spent a good bit of time making sure the gap was completely filled.