Deck scupper enlargement

[simdim]

Hi All,
Trying to follow up on old topic of Deck scupper enlargement: https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9525.15.html
My plan is to drill them to about 1" since they are constantly plugged by spider webs and other garbage.
Just wondering if I should use "normal" hole saw or diamond tipped, as it seems to be solid 2" of glass it that area. 

- simdim

[KWKloeber]

It doesn't need to be diamond -- carbide is fine.

I got a complete set of carbide-tooth hole saws at a great deal off Craigslist!
I used them on the bottom of a stainless cabinet (electrical, nothing nautical) and it was an absolute LIFESAVER -- a bimetal hole saw "never would have cut it".

[scgunner]

Rather than enlarging the holes have you considered opening up the scuppers, it's fairly common on other makes of boats. Cutting 45 degree angles into the scupper railing to the bottom of the hole would do it. That eliminates clogs and drains the deck much more quickly. You'd have to finish the cut ends of course but you'll have to do that to the enlarged holes as well.

[Jim Hardesty]

Rather than enlarging the holes have you considered opening up the scuppers, it's fairly common on other makes of boats. Cutting 45 degree angles into the scupper railing to the bottom of the hole would do it. That eliminates clogs and drains the deck much more quickly. You'd have to finish the cut ends of course but you'll have to do that to the enlarged holes as well.

That's the way my MKll is made.  I like the idea of drilling out the holes and installing a short pipe/tube to drain the water away from the hull.  That should reduce the black streaks from deck water running down the hull.  Somewhere that idea is posted here.  If you use a hole saw it's best to plug the old hole with a wood plug before drilling so the pilot drill on the hole saw works and the hole saw doesn't walk.
Hope that helps,
Jim

[KWKloeber]

[If you use a hole saw it's best to plug the old hole with a wood plug before drilling so the pilot drill on the hole saw works and the hole saw doesn't walk.
Jim

Hey Jim if you have that situation here's 3 easier outside-the-box hacks I use (plugging the hole is my last resort.)

Drill a hole in plywood for an external guide, and kneel or stand on it (at least until the new hole gets started.) Or affix it with double sided tape or whatever.
https://youtube.com/shorts/q-CzRZoC4GI?si=sSqRDRmIXzI_cfTQ

Use two saws, if the original hole is a nominal size:
https://youtube.com/shorts/HdKg3IooOB8?si=0PfI_xEPUGRliT5P

If the original hole is odd-size cut a larger hardwood hole and sand it down to the correct diameter for an arbor.
https://youtu.be/vOUfFaIJUqo?si=i34fdHsT_agcf5e9

[simdim]

My Plan was to drill 1" pilots in 3/4" plywood - attach that jig to the outside toe rail with the original hole on the bottom of the hole in the jig and drill it that way. I have to go to the boat to measure exactly how wide the toe rail is - all 1" or 7/8" carbide hole saws may be too shallow to go trough in one step.

I think I found the right hole saw for this job - https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-1-in-Carbide-Hole-Saw-with-2-3-8-in-Cutting-Depth-DHS1000CT/301697676