K75 motor mounts.

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Noah

This is a random thought...but are you sure your shaft is straight? You might also consider buying a flexible coupler. I have a Vetus Bullflex coupler and it works well.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

SV Sand Pebble

#16
  Thank you Noah for your pointer, I did think about that option, although a good one yet I may still be on the edge for some reason. Maybe my boat was one that was drilled just enough off to still work but not close enough for the K75's. Outside of that my wife is getting ready to beat me over the head, I'm in the process of getting all new canvas, both dodger and Bimini plus a stack pack, a pretty penny. Now spending more money on motor mounts I'm just going to slip down to the boat tail between my legs get her up and working take the wife for a little trip to remind her why we do this Lol. If the flexible coupling was not enough I would have to eat crow twice with the wife. I feel I own a brand new 1987 mark 1, I love everything about the boat and can find no reason short of crossing oceans to upgrade so I went all in during the
Last 4 years.
SV Sand Pebble C34 Mark 1 hull #418 engine 25XP

SV Sand Pebble

#17
  Just a follow up on my motor mounts. Although the K75s have worked on many boats and have been a great choice for others here are some precautions to take before making the choice to go with these cost effective motor mounts K75's. Look at your original factory motor mounts at the large slotted bases. The K75s have no horizontal adjustment built in. I did not look at that. So after installing the K75s and a lot of frustration during the motor alignment and my boat being outside the tolerance of 0.003 mine was at 6 to
0.008 with no adjustment available for horizontal I had to remove the mounts and pay over $800.00 for the factory original. Then Hell yea! Oh my God it was great like a new boat, no vibration even over 2000 RPM accept of course lazarette, padlocks, and a few other loose objects, yet the boat was fantastic. Cannot tell you how good that felt after the big trouble it all was. I actually had to put my motor mounts in with my engine, cockeyed, totally cockeyed. And yet in this cockeyed position, my greatest opening on the flange was that 3 o'clock and about 2000s. So look at your original motor mounts and if you look like you don't need horizontal adjustment go with the K75s and save some good hard earned money. But if your bolts are way sideways in the original mounts, think about sticking with the original. My boat maybe one and 100 but it was a journey. Excuse any typos I'm doing this on my iPhone I almost need a microscope to see it lol I just wanted to pass it all along. And everybody thank you for your help and guidance.
SV Sand Pebble C34 Mark 1 hull #418 engine 25XP

Noah

Quote from: SV Sand Pebble on January 12, 2024, 07:05:00 PM
  Just a follow up on my motor mounts. I actually had to put my motor mounts in with my engine, cockeyed, totally cockeyed. And yet in this cockeyed position, my greatest opening on the flange was that 3 o'clock and about 2000s. So look at your original motor mounts

Are you thinking your engine bed was installed not "square" fore and aft with the centerline of the boat and its running gear (shaft log, strut, etc.)? Or, am I confused?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Craig Illman

I expoxied some small dowels in the original hole and redrilled without moving the engine. It was over 12 years ago, so I don't remember the whole project.

Craig

Jon W

#20
Thanks SV Sand Pebble, great advice on checking the horizontal requirements. For future reference where did you buy them, what is the engine isolator mount brand, and what part numbers did you end up using? Thanks for the help.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

SV Sand Pebble

#21
  Hi Jon and all.

  I noticed after my install that with my new universal factory slotted motor mounts that the back end of my motor was swung as far to starboard in the motor mount slots as I could go and as far port with the front of the motor in the front motor mounts. I think the original motor mounts must of been placed by a helper or someone with little attention to the future.
SV Sand Pebble C34 Mark 1 hull #418 engine 25XP

Noah

#22
Quote from: SV Sand Pebble on January 13, 2024, 10:58:08 AM
  Hi Jon and all.

  I noticed after my install that with my new universal factory slotted motor mounts that the back end of my motor was swung as far to starboard in the motor mount slots as I could go and as far port with the front of the motor in the front motor mounts. I think the original motor mounts must of been placed by a helper or someone with little attention to the future.
Were the original holes drilled in the oak stingers located on centerline of the stringers or drilled "cockeyed"?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

SV Sand Pebble

  Jon

  These were the mounts from Catalina direct. Mine was drilled cockeyed.
SV Sand Pebble C34 Mark 1 hull #418 engine 25XP

SV Sand Pebble

#24
 
  Noah

  Yes my holes were drilled and are cockeyed. There's more than one way to skin a cat and I guess this job could've been approached a few different ways, and may be ways that could save money. In the end, I was a little frustrated. I was so glad to move past this job to the many other jobs I plan on accomplishing.
SV Sand Pebble C34 Mark 1 hull #418 engine 25XP

Ron Hill

#25
George : Sorry to hear that "Paco" drilled your engine mount holes  cockeyed!!  Glad to hear you finally got the problem solved

It was so many years ago - that I may have elongated the K75 holes to get a good fit and front engine alignment??  Anyway, my new M25XPB engine essentially used the same old holes .  I did have to cut down the height of the oak stringers to attain engine alignment. My flexible coupling took up any slight misalignment.

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

SV Sand Pebble

#26
  Yes there is always more then one way to get a job done. Sometimes I forget just how great a resource this forum is for all of us and I'm very grateful to all who has posted in the past, present and the future. I hope to add my own small contributions in the days and years ahead. I totally love my Catalina 34, I solo sail a lot. I find it just the right size to solo sail, sail with a friend or the wife and also to take up to six for a day sail. For its size it's very cost worthy to own for your average man. And for a boat that spends 90 percent of the time in the slip it offers a small condo for a beach house for those like myself who could never afford a beach house. It's the best kept secret capable of transforming a man or woman with an adventurous heart.
  I love the expression " Am I fixing my boat or is my boat fixing ME. Speaking as a man with three knee replacements (a recall) and 3 ankle reconstructions, it has been my boat fixing me, mind body and spirit.
SV Sand Pebble C34 Mark 1 hull #418 engine 25XP

KWKloeber

Quote from: SV Sand Pebble on January 13, 2024, 11:23:46 AM

  These were the mounts from Catalina Direct. Mine was drilled cockeyed.


George

Those engine isolators (I won't even get into the modern bastardization of the terms "engine" vs "motor") are directly out of Westerbeke parts bins and there's no question in my mind that what you received was typical (for these days) Westerbeke crap.  They had sold me so many bad parts over what were the final 10 years (before I gave up supplying Wb parts as a Wb dealer.)  I've had to return probably a dozen parts, ranging from $50 to $200 because they were defective in manufacturing or finishing.   I could show photos of nightmare drilling, threading, tapping, etc., that would make anyone's blood boil.  The last instance was an exhaust flange that was so poorly threaded that a nipple couldn't screw in -- I had to get one at a different Wb distributor (who told me I was crazy and didn't know what the h*ll I was talking about -- until I challenged him to go right then and pull the flanges in stock, and take them out of the bags/inspect them.  I was lucky and was able to claim the only good flange out of 5 in his stock (with an apology from the distributor.))   I gave up -- between covering the shipping costs from customers back to Wb, replacements shipped to me, then shipped to customers (Wb would not cover any s/h cost and would not drop ship to the customer) it was a losing proposition to supply parts.
At the time my stocking distributor relinquished the distributorship because of the junk replacement parts!!
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

Ken-either you or me are confused. It is my understanding the there was nothing wrong with his WB mounts nor his K75s. I take was that his holes were drilled "cockeyed" or off center in the boat's stringers. The K75 did not have to horizontal elongated hole to compensate for to off center holes. So, he bought the WB ones that have a slotted foot so he could adjust for the problem of the off center hole placement in the stringer by sliding the mounts horizontally.
At least that is how I understood his problem and solution to be. I could be wrong?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

KWKloeber

"These were the mounts from Catalina direct. Mine was drilled cockeyed."

Noah,
I took "mine" as "the ones I received."
Good chance that I misinterpreted that?
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain