Wrench for raw water strainer

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Porchhound

I have to be careful with this strainer so close to my thru hull and I don't have a wrench to fit it. Replaced the impeller, started it up, and very little water coming out the exhaust. I took the cover and gasket back off to inspect the impeller and there was some water in the impeller housing. I'm starting with my source of sea water and working forward. Everything was working fine when I put her up last Fall. I made sure to snug there cover plate screws up and there wasn't any leakage there or at the heat exchanger. It's time to clean the strainer anyway if I can find the right tool. Somewhere on this site I found a diagram of the raw and fresh water system but it's lost in my memory bank somewhere.

BTW that's the threaded plug for at the top of the impeller housing?
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

Jon W

Try a strap wrench. Be careful loosening and tightening so you don't damage the thru hull/seacock.

I changed to a Vetus raw water strainer attached to the bulkhead to remove it from the seacock, give me better visibility inside the strainer basket, and to have straight through access to the outside if the thru hull/seacock were to get clogged.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Porchhound

Thanks for that idea. I'm not sure how this works: "..and to have straight through access to the outside if the thru hull/seacock were to get clogged." Do you have a secondary thru hull you are accessing??
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

waughoo

The strainer you have is mounted directly onto the ball valve that is attached to the thru-hull.  Unfortunately, if the thru-hull gets blocked by seaweed or something else, the strainer you have does not have a directly accessible path to clear the blockage.  The strainer would have to be unscrewed to clear the blockage.
The strainer that John changed to has a mostly straight hose from the bottom directly to the thru-hull.  This set up allows one to open the strainer top, clear the basket, and then use a rod to poke down the inlet tube, through the ball valve out the bottom of the boat.  It has happened to me and I have plans to switch to the vetus type.  It makes for a quick clearing of the blockage.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Porchhound

#4
Got it. Thanks. What type of wrench do you use to open the strainer for cleaning?
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

scgunner

Porchhound,

That looks like the original strainer, I replaced mine a while ago with the newer version. I don't know about you but due to the beveled edge I always had a hard time getting a good seal, too loose it leaked, too tight the O-ring slipped and it leaked. The new one is flat edged and gets a good seal every time. I wouldn't recommend using any kind of wrench on that plastic unit. Hand tightening is sufficient to get a good seal which is all you want in the first place.

The threaded plug on the impeller housing is for bleeding the system. After I replace the impeller I remove the plug, put a shot of WD-40 down the hole to provide lube for the impeller until it's primed then start the motor and replace the plug when water squirts out of the hole.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Jon W

Once he gets the dome off and cleaned up, tighten and loosen by hand. I thought he tried and couldn't so was asking about a wrench. I put some o-ring grease on the threads and o-ring as well to make it easier.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Porchhound

#7
Thanks, Gunner. I can't get the strainer off with just hand strength, but I'll sure just tighten it that way when I finally do. With no water from impeller housing going to the HX something is wrong. There was some water in the housing when I removed it to check what the problem was and the impeller hadn't been damaged.

I assumed it was self-primed...was I wrong?
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

Porchhound

Gunner, It just dawned on me from what you said about the impeller housing plug I can remove it and see if I'm getting water to that point. I'd bang may head on the table if it wasn't already sore from all this thinking stuff!
If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?

scgunner

Porchhound,

You are not wrong, the water pump is a positive pressure pump so it should be self priming but the question is how long do you want that pump (rubber against metal) running dry until prime is achieved? Answer: no longer than absolutely necessary which is why I prime mine after impeller replacement.

One thing you can try to get the strainer cover off is to wrap it with masking tape which gives you a firmer grip, sometimes it's enough to break the seal. If that doesn't work you can use one of those strap wrenches used for getting lids off jars.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

waughoo

A rubber strap wrench might be helpful in getting the plastic bowl free of the housing.  You need to be careful though as the housing is attached to the ball valve.  Make sure to support the housing as you try and rotate the bowl off.  You might also try a rubber mat (we used to have a few in our kitchen to help open jars) to give you a bit of extra purchase on the cover.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Ron Hill

#11
Porch : Like I said and other have said GET A STRAP WRENCH at an auto parts store.

Read and comprehend my post above about the raw water system!!   
Ron, Apache #788

Porchhound

If human intelligence is insufficient, why think something artificial modeled after it would be better?