Main halyard replacement

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

kent

Hey,
Can anyone tell me the recomnended size and lenth of the main halyard (standard rig)? What would you recomend using? I would also like to know the procedure for changing the halyard.
Thanks,

mogline

Kent,
Try 115 ft of 3/8 low stretch line.  There are a number of manufacturers with similar lines depending on how low stretch (ie. expensive) you want to go.  I use sta set x.  To rig just carefully tape to old halyard and pull through.  I always put a few stitches of sail repair thread through both lines before I tape out of an admitted overabundance of caution.  Use electrical tape and wrap tightly at least three inches from both ends.  Use too much tape and you won't be able to pull it through.

Jim Price

I replaced both main and jib halyards wtih New England T-900, 10mm.  Expensive but NO STRETCH!  I also cleaned and "Sailkoted" my slugs and can raise main by hand from mast all the way to top.  I use winch only to take slack out of sail. I have also dumped the "LazyMates" from Catalina.  Before all of this, had to winch sail up last third.  Very easy now.
Jim Price
"LADY DI", 1119
1991
Lake Lanier, GA

Stu Jackson

Kent

The Manuals on the main website is found at:

http://c34.org/manuals/

It includes the plate (Catalina engineering drawing) of the lengths and recommended sizes of all lines - standing and running.

Stu

PS  it's a long download, but it's all there.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

captran

I was nervous about replacing my main halyard, afraid I'd lose it in the mast.  A guy just returning from 10 years in the Carribean showed me a good trick.  Put the end of the old right up to the end of the new and take a few tacks with needle and thread before taping.  That way, even if the tape snagged, there was no way the sewing would come out.  I needn't have worried as it ran perfectly smooth as I pulled it up the mast and down.  He recommended a bowline for the shackle, but suggested I take the end of the bowline and sew it so that even if it floggs, It won't come out.  The 115' I replaced seems to give quite alot extra.

Ken Juul

For the main halyard I currently have a wire/rope combination.  My guess is that it is the original rigging (1990).  I am thinking of replacing all the running rigging in the spring, is an all rope main halyard acceptable? What is everyones opinion about changing the roller furling halyard?  It is in constant tension, but seldom gets used.  Necessary or just replace out of principle.
Ken & Vicki Juul
Luna Loca #1090
Chesapeake Bay
Past Commodore C34IA

Mike and Theresa Vaccaro

Quick thought on all running rigging--reverse the runs annually to even out wear and check for chaffing.  Will require a messenger for halyard runs, but worth the effort.  Also allows you to clean the lines thoroughly.  Will require resplicing/whipping ends if you don't believe in bowlines with a tacked bitter end.  Fairly straightforward for folks that pull their boats for the winter and drop the mast, but obviously a bit more work for boats that remain in the water all year long.  Since we sail all year long, our technqiue is to do one or two lines at a time every other month and just keep to an annual
"cycle" for all the rigging--requires a note in the maintenance log to track.

One of those classic "ounce of prevention" tricks that has allowed us to find bad sheaves/runs before the rigging has parted due to chafe.

Cheers,

Mike

kent

Thanks for all of your help, I decided to go with 7/16 Marlowbraid from Layline @ $0.72 ft. on sale. costs more to braid than other line, but highly recommended by Layline.