I’ve Crimped My Last

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KeelsonGraham

I recently discovered Wago in-line connectors. They're absolutely amazing. Just flick the lever and you wire is held vise-like.

No more weak or failed crimps for me. From now on my boat is a Wago boat!

2006 Catalina 34 Mk II. Hull No:1752. Engine: M35 BC.

Noah

I am not an electrician, but don't believe these should be used anywhere where you worry about corrosion.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

senorquill

MQ

derekb

#3
That's a clever design, looks like a cool idea. But the clear section is molded from polycarbonate... which is notoriously susceptible to chemical attack. So I wouldn't be using them anywhere they could be exposed to fuels, paints, cleaning fluids or chemical vapours.
Derek Buckmaster
Esprit, 1986 C34 Mark I #29. Fin keel, Universal M25.
Geelong, Victoria, Australia

Jim Hardesty

QuoteI recently discovered Wago in-line connectors. They're absolutely amazing. Just flick the lever and you wire is held vise-like.

No more weak or failed crimps for me. From now on my boat is a Wago boat!

I won't go that far, don't have problems with my crimped connectors. Other than sometimes being short a hand or two to hold wires, connector and crimper.  Do see a couple of things I like.  Looks like they are reusable, can be disconnected and reconnected. (brochure wasn't really clear on that).  The three-way connection looks more elegant then the three-way crimped connectors or line taps.  FWIW that is one place where I solder the 3 wires, sometimes solder and insulate short wires then crimp connect in place.
So, I'll keep them in mind for a few special uses.
Thanks for the info,
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

tmac

Maybe if you got some big heat shrink and slid it over the entire Wago assembly, you could make it more resistant to corrosion  :D
Tom McCanna
Bayfield, WI , Apostle Islands 1988 std. rig C34, #818 M-25xp, wing keel
Lake Superior - No Sharks, No Salt

mainesail

#6
If you are having problems with crimps you're  likely using the wrong crimp tool.

https://marinehowto.com/marine-wire-termination/
-Maine Sail
Casco Bay, ME
Boat - CS-36T

https://marinehowto.com/

KWKloeber

Quote from: Noah on February 05, 2023, 03:11:54 PM

I am not an electrician, but don't believe these should be used anywhere where you worry about corrosion.


Noah is much more correct about this than he might imagine. 

They SHOULD NOT be used on a boat and are tantamount to "wire nut" connections, which are not approved by ABYC.

The solder/seal (Amazon) connectors SHOULD ALSO NOT be used on a boat.  The only electrical connection is solder, which is VERBOTEN by ABYC.

THERE ARE crimp and heat/solder butt connections that are acceptable BUT those garbage Amazon butts are not.

Your Boat Your Choice, but have the common decency to inform your slip neighbors what you are using so that they have the knowledge/opportunity to request a relocation away so as not to be next to you if a fire results. 

No one should have any issues crimping IF they use the CORRECT TOOL.  A decent tool is within EVERYONE's budget.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

KWKloeber

Quote from: KeelsonGraham on February 05, 2023, 12:49:52 PM
I recently discovered Wago in-line connectors. They're absolutely amazing. Just flick the lever and you wire is held vise-like.

No more weak or failed crimps for me. From now on my boat is a Wago boat!

Anyone.
I repeat, ANYONE can make a better butt connection on a boat than using those. 

There is controversy among electricians about those (they have been shown to open up) and they are not watertight and not approved for marine work. 
Folks -- please DON'T use these of you care about your wiring.

If one cannot crimp, then it is probably due to using an improper tool or an improper technique or inferior terminals.  I don't own stock in it, but I use nothing but readily available and reasonably priced FTZ terms and lugs.  Ancor brand terms and lugs are among the lower-grade ones and I avoid them like a novel coronavirus. I had compared the construction/quality of both and there is a VAST difference between FTZ and Ancor and others like Wirefy on Amazon (IMO, their crimper is pretty good though, but nowhere equal to Rodds Pro DIY crimper [that I do not see on his Amazon store).)
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain