Yep. I have the M35. The manual says M35B on it, so I guess it’s the right one. Every version I’ve downloaded shows the same procedure.
[** Edited]
@kg
The M35 Ops Manual does NOT state that the pump is to be removed to change the impeller. The M35B manual DOES recommend removal.
I have posted at least two zillion times that the older non-B engines (e.g, M-35 and M-35A) are completely different than the current "B" series engines.
Nevertheless, never ass/u/me that an engine w/ any model number (M-35 or M-25) uses the same manual as an engine with a different model number (M-35B or M-25XPB)!!! Especially when, if one goes to the "manuals" page on the wiki website to download an Owner's or Parts manual -- there are manuals for the M35 and different ones for the M35B.
As for the pump itself -- On the M35 there is virtually nothing in the way so it is relatively easy to get at the bolts. On the M-35B (and M-25XPB) there is an engine belt in the vicinity so it is easier to remove the pump to service the impeller, than to try to finger out the bolts from the rear of the pump. Not that it CANNOT be done in-situ, but many just find that it's simply easier to remove the two bolts and pull it.
The other reason that (I believe that) Westerbeke may say to remove the pump is due to the problems it had experienced with the shaft seizing up in the Sherwood iron-body pump and snapping off the pump drive on some of the "B" engines (see pic below.) Removing the pump affords a very quick assessment of the pump and the shaft action and whether there is any corrosion that is affecting the iron body portion of the pump. YBYC but if I ran a Sw pump I would invest the scant amount of time once a year that it takes to remove it to check it!!
But I prefer using the studs that I show below in place of the bolts.
**[When using a Sw pump the studs use 2 holes for the L clips and the 2 unused holes are closed off with 6mm set screws that are lock-tighted in place.]
