new to inflatable dinghy - how to store in front of mast?

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scgunner

Noah,

Adding an unnecessary jib halyard to solve a problem that I already have a solution for seems a bit counterproductive. By walking the main halyard around the mast nothing is being "forced", due to the length of the halyard and the very slight angle of departure off the sheave the whole operation is really quite smooth. While this isn't an optimal angle, raising a dinghy puts only a very small fraction of the load that this rig was designed to handle. At this point I have yet to see any chaffing or any other damage due to this method and I've been doing it this way for about twenty years.

Stu,

There was also a time when I could just haul it over the lifelines and onto the deck but that was about three dinghies ago. This current Cribe weighs 95lbs and is a real mother to hump around without mechanical assistance.

Ron,

Fortunately for me duck poop isn't a problem in my neck of the woods.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Noah

Kevin- Apparently I don't understand the geometry and physics here; how you use a halyard that is fed aft over a sheave and drag it around the mast to pick up something on the beam, let alone forward of the mast, without it not coming off of the sheave channel and causing friction and chafe?? YBYC. BTW. An extra jib halyard is always a nice safety item to have run. Halyards do break.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Ron Hill

Kevin : You may not have duck poop, but after 3- 4 days I'm sure that slime and/or critters are trying to attach them selves to the bottom of any dink left in the water that long!!

I agree with Noah on the chafe but it's your Halyard!! 

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

scgunner

Noah,

I'm not a mathematician either nor do I play one on TV so the actual math eludes me. But I do know something of the mechanics involved based on experience. A roller sheave and line works best when pulling from dead center, however depending on the size of the sheave, line, application and installation there is an off center radius of operation of a certain number of degrees where the rig will still perform well. I don't know if my dinghy raising evolution is within that envelope but if not it's got to be pretty darn close and that's just based on actual experience.

FYI, a couple of years ago I replaced the main halyard for safety reasons since it's how I get up the mast. I examined the old one to see if there was any reason for concern other than peace of mind. Other than being faded I found no signs of chaffing or other damage of any kind. This is just my experience, I like to keep things as quick and simple as possible, as you say Your Boat, Your Choice.

BTW, in the thirty-four years I've owned my boat I've had two jib failures, both were the sail, not saying it doesn't happen but I've never had a busted halyard, jib or main.

Ron,

When my dinghy is in the water for a week or more I find 5min with a mask and a scratchpad once a week remedies that problem. It beats having to pull your dinghy out of the water every night.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Jim Hardesty

#19
Loaded dinghy using the spin-halyard and windless.  Very little effort or time.   
Did a 10 foot loop at dinghy handholds away from side of boat, attached spin-halyard to that, loosened anchor rode about 20 feet, pulled dinghy up with windless, very little effort.  Used a couple of feet of 1/4 rope tied thru turn buckles and stanchion base made into loops, then a tie-down strap, also tied to mast. A piece of pool noodle and small fender at transom finished it.
https://www.harborfreight.com/set-of-2-1-inch-x-12-ft-lashing-straps-67386.html?_br_psugg_q=tie-down+straps
Jim



Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

LogoFreak

Maybe not ideal size wise, but a highfield 340 just fits. I will likely deflate it for longer passages but still keep it there.
Antoni - Vancouver BC
1992 Catalina 34 Tall rig fin keel mk 1.5 "Polonaise"
Hull number 1179

Ron Hill

Kevin ; You missed the whole point!!  All you have to do is lift the dink out of the water and leave it overnight on the side of the boat.  Then there is NO need for any scrubbing!!  You only need to lift the dink for an overnight every 3rd/4th day the dink is in the water!!  Easily done in about 5 minutes!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

Noah

Logo-The Highfields are very nice! Is it inconvenient to set your anchor with dinghy in that position? Do you need to move it to open chain locker?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

LogoFreak

Noah, yes I can open the anchor locker. Obviously not as comfortable to get around the dinghy but doable, if I deflate the dinghy it's a non issue. The highfields are very nice indeed, love mine. One I went with is technically "too big" for a Catalina 34, however my brother and I go diving off the dinghy and leave the sailboat on anchor so I needed something larger to have room for two sets of gear and 3 people.

I also pull up the boat off the water a foot or two at night using the spare forward halyard, so the bottom doesn't get dirty, it really makes a difference.
Antoni - Vancouver BC
1992 Catalina 34 Tall rig fin keel mk 1.5 "Polonaise"
Hull number 1179

scgunner

Logo,

My Caribe is basically the same size and sits like yours. The weight of the dinghy keeps it in place even under sail and without tie downs. You can still raise the forward hatch to provide ventilation even underway and the dinghy acts like a dodger to keep down below dry. In answer to Noah's question it doesn't interfere with anchoring ops and actually provides a convenient seat while doing that.

Ron,

I may have missed the whole point but I only have to do my evolution once a week while you've got to do yours seven times a week to accomplish the same goal.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Jon W

Just got back from a short trip with roll up 9ft 2" Highfield with air floor tied to the foredeck for the first time. 2 straps from dinghy transom to center chainplates like Ron suggested, and 2 straps from dinghy towing D rings to pulpit, short pool noodles on the fwd end of the hand rails and on dinghy transom, and a 1 1/2" thick kneeling pad between deck and dinghy bow so the seat doesn't touch on the fwd hatch. Held fine in 16 knots, and some water over the bow. I use my whisker pole with a small triple block and tackle as a jib crane to raise and lower the dinghy off the foredeck into the water. Then I lead it to the back of the boat and store on my davits until I'm ready to leave, then put it back on the foredeck.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

scgunner

Jon,

If you've got davits why do you store the dinghy on the deck?
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

waughoo

Davits for convenience and on deck for shorter slip fees and saver foul weather passages maybe?
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

Noah

Alex—That's my take but lets see what Jon says. Also adds weight far aft and up and maybe lack of visibility aft?
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Jon W

Hi Kevin, Alex said it better than I. Currently I don't use the dinghy much when I'm in my slip. To avoid sun damage and added slip fees it's usually deflated, rolled up and stored below. While I'm underway I prefer it to be on the foredeck feeling it's more secure in case of rough weather or high following seas. When I'm at my destination, I store it on the davits which makes daily use easier, and deters theft (I hope).
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca