Haulout Time

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Jon W

Maybe he's talking about the hose clamped onto the shaft log that the packing gland attaches to.
Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

scgunner

That's the one I'm talking about. If you can't break the rear trans coupling loose from the prop shaft there's no way to remove the shaft short of removing the motor or cutting the shaft (they cut the shaft). They'll still have to break that coupling loose but that's probably much easier to do on a work bench.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Noah

#17
AH HA... that's the "shaft log hose". Yep, no way to get that out with shaft connected to tranny. Dang!
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

waughoo

They will likely replace the coupler.  I would ask them about getting a split coupler to allow for future removal.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

scgunner

Well Top Gun is finally back in the water with new bottom paint, new S/S prop shaft, new cutlass bearing, and new rear coupling. Amazingly for all this they didn't charge me a penny. However the souvenir T-shirt cost $6,400.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

waughoo

Oy!  Must be good cotton... make sure you don't put it in the dryer.
Alex - Seattle, WA
91 mk1.5 #1120
Std rig w/wing keel
Universal M35
Belafonte

scgunner

I've been back in the water now for about two weeks but still having problems with the packing gland. With the packing nut backed out so the drip rate is nearly a steady stream the nut still gets very warm (not hot) to the touch. The funny thing is when I run it in reverse the nut cools down, figure that one out!

I think the yard may have over tightened the packing nut which compressed the packing too much for it to rebound when the nut is loosened. Right now I think my options are replace the packing or run it as is to see if running it will work in the packing and eventually solve the problem.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Noah

My understanding is once the nut has been overtightened the packing will not "rebound". You will have to dig it out and repack. You can do this in the water just be careful.

https://marinehowto.com/re-packing-a-traditional-stuffing-box/
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

scgunner

Noah,

I'm beginning to lean that way. I slid the nut back and wiggled it on the shaft in an attempt to loosen the packing, it actually worked and had the effect of lowering the temp from hot to very warm but it's still not where I want to be temp wise.

BTW, thanks for posting the article it was very helpful.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Ron Hill

#24
Kevin : I believe that you need to replace the packing.  You can look in the Mainsheet tech notes. I wrote an article about replacing the packing while in the water - not that hard to do.  I'd recommend the Gore dripless packing - it works great for me. 

Just tighten the nut gently - by hand.  Then I always tell people to make subsequent adjustments of a 1/16 of a turn - just a tiny bit at a time. Of course checking the nut temp in-between. Warm is OK , not Hot!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

scgunner

Thanks for the replies guys,

I just ran the motor in gear for an hour at 2000rpm so I'll have a baseline temp after I replace the packing. I got a high temp of 136 degrees. I'm going to repack with standard flax packing, it's worked great for me for decades and I've long ago given up on the dripless thing. As long as it doesn't drip more than 15 or 20 times a minute in gear and 3 or 4 times a minute out of gear I'm golden.
Kevin Quistberg                                                 Top Gun 1987 Mk 1 Hull #273

Noah

#26
FYI- I use GTU packing (Western Pacific Trading) with my SS shaft and almost NO drips—even when running--and still cool enough to hand hold the stuffing box nut. Installed FIVE years ago and never replaced. Just saying... Also, no corrosion nor scaring.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Jim Hardesty

QuoteFYI- I use GTU packing (Western Pacific Trading) with my SS shaft and almost NO drips—even when running--and still cool enough to hand hold the stuffing box nut. Installed FIVE years ago and never replaced. Just saying... Also, no corrosion nor scaring.

My experience exactly. except original brass shaft.  A small adjustment in spring and monitoring bilge, that's it. Probably replace at 7-10 years.
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA

Ron Hill

#28
Kevin : You really must believe Jim, Me and Noah.  It is a real mistake NOT to at least try the Gore packing!!  Almost the same price as the flax with little to no drips'!!  Eliminate your stinky bilge!!

A few thoughts   :thumb:
Ron, Apache #788

Kyle Ewing

I'll add another endorsement for Gore packing, but I understand your desire to go back to to something you know works.  I put some in a long time ago (10+ years?) and only replaced it this spring.  I replaced it because of symptoms similar to yours: more drip than before and too much heat when I tightened it enough to stop the drip.

Any chance the yard used the wrong size or somehow incorrectly installed it?  Hopefully they'll fix it given the value of your new t-shirt!
Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Belmont Harbor, Chicago
http://www.saildonnybrook.com/