Exhaust riser flange stud

[Steve Hansen]

Going forward with removal and maintenance of the exhaust riser. Lots of great information on this site so I felt confident with this first time project. Top two flange nuts came off no problem using 9/16 ratchet with 6 sided socket. As for the bottom nut I used a 9/16 inch box wrench. Next time I would use a ratcheting 6 sided box wrench. The nut was completely seized to the stud but the stud ended up turning out so I was able to remove it fairly easily. I ordered new studs from Catalina Direct. Are there any techniques to screwing the new stud in to the manifold? I saw in a discussion about putting two nuts on the end of the stud to act as a head to turn stud in. Are the threads treated with anti-seize, or something like WD40? Then when putting the flange nuts back on is something like locktite used? At first look the riser looks in good shape but the gasket is well past due for replacement. Also replacing black muffler hose with a new hump hose. Thanks for your input.

[KWKloeber]

Steve

IIWMB, I would chase the manifold threads w/ a bottoming tap to ensure an easy fitment. 
Lock washers are enough but there's no harm in using blue loctite.

Make SURE the gasket goes on correctly -- if backward, all your coolant will end up out the exhaust.

Would the additional real estate of a ratcheting box wrench fit on lower the nut?

[Stu Jackson]

........................

Would the additional real estate of a ratcheting box wrench fit on lower the nut?

Ken's right, it simply will not.

My Tips & Tricks are here:

https://c34.org/muffler-exhaust-riser-replacement-2015/

[Ron Hill]

Steve : I thought I posted to you to use a 6 point after alot of blaster/penetrating oil  Because a 12 sided socket/wrench will probably round the nut edges!!!

A thought!!

[Steve Hansen]

Thanks for the feedback, Ken I like the idea of using a bottoming tap to clear the threads, makes sense, I will have to reread tips and tricks for bottom stud but I am fortunate to have long arms and I was able to reach around from the front of the engine. The nuts released fairly easily. The plan was to give a modest attempt at turning the nuts and if no success soaking with PB Blaster and trying a week later. The top nuts were released with a 6 sided ratchet. Great advice Ron, it held the nuts tight. Of course the bottom nut was seized. I bought a crescent brand wrench 12 point (no 6 point available so I went with what they had), it made some claim about pressure on the nut head was improved, it worked but I honestly didn't see a difference with my Napa box wrench comparing them side by side. Was able to use short arcs from the side, took awhile but success. That's why I thought a ratchet box would be better. Didn't think about its size. Thanks again

[Jim Hardesty]

bought a crescent brand wrench 12 point (no 6 point available so I went with what they had), it made some claim about pressure on the nut head was improved, it worked but I honestly didn't see a difference with my Napa box wrench comparing them side by side.

Snap-on 6 point sockets are made with a curve on the sides, they drive at the middle of the sides of the nut/bolt not on the edges.  They will work on a damaged nut/bolt that others won't. Don't know if they have been copied by others.  They are great tools, but I'm still using my 50+ year old Craftsman tools.
Jim