Replace Exhaust Riser?

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Sailing Sirona

thanks for the notes on the clamps - I'll look at getting some.

In terms of hot water, I checked today and I had tepid water (definitely warmer than the cold)... I'm double check when I'm actually cruising and the engine temp does get a chance to get up to full op temp for a while, and enough time to heat the full tank.  Both of the hoses on the loop were hot.

When I turned on the water heater on the AC panel when I plugged in to shore power I got good hot water!
Steve Richards
"Sirona"
1992 C34 1.5 (#1194), M35
Cowichan Bay, BC

KWKloeber

Steve

UltimateGarage.com is a reasonable source for ABA clamps w/o the marine tariff; and Steve's a good guy. 

In BC you probably won't see more than 160 ("get up to full op temp") with the lower temp Tstat (freshwater boats can use the higher Tstat.)  It's just a matter of transferring BTUs from a small flow to a big tank of water, and of course, depends on the ambient temp of the water! 
But at cruising rpm there's greater volume of coolant (heatant?!) going thru the WH so the water remains in contact w/ hotter coolant throughout the length of the WH coolant coil.  In other words, say the input is 160 and after transferring heat the return is 130.  With high flow the input may still be 160 but the return might be 155 so each minute more BTUs are transferred to the water. (Those aren't actual numbers! just concepts.)
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

Steve : On the M25XP engine, I found that you had to run the engine for apparx 30 minutes @ 160F to get hot water from the tap.

A thought
Ron, Apache #788