using cool new multimeter to check all engine components

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crieders

any good article around about how to use a multimeter to check solenoids for starting motor, glo plugs, ground, starting motor itself? . Engine turns over with no umph; not enough energy to start the engine. Batteries do check out ok, even as to available cranking power.
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

KWKloeber

Cliff

What's your basis that the batts have plenty of cranking power?

The glow plugs have zero to do with cranking.

I'd say first you need to understand what each part of the two starting circuits do, then you can check whether there's appropriate voltage at each key point/connection.
Or, if you search there's about a thousand message posts about what the critical things to check are, the vast majority don't need a meter (just inspection/cleaning/de-corroding/tightening.)  The one that really benefits from a V check is the key switch/S-wire circuit, and of course the V delivered to the solenoid B terminal while cranking.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

Cliff : Take a look at all of your battery connections (clean? tight?), especially the #4 size negative wire that attaches to the engine bell housing!!

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

mark_53


crieders

not sure. When I bought the boat, 30 yrs ago, I had a new wiring harness put in since there was a fire issue about the original.
its time to test the solenoids, the starting motor, the glo plugs, the ground, all the connections, the 3 batteries  . the battery connections look good and tight.
Cliff Rieders, c34 tall rig, 1990, hull #1022

KWKloeber

Cliff

You asked about slow turning over not long ago and there were significant discussions and suggestions about tracking that down??

https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11183.msg88980.html#msg88980
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Ron Hill

#6
Cliff : I'm sure that you probably have the OEM wiring!.   IF YOU CHANGED WIRING - you would know it - so you should still have the basic OEM wiring.

All battery connections you say are clean and tight, but Did you check? that #4 ground going to the bell housing??  I ask because it is hard to get to and people forget about it!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

mark_53

Quote from: crieders on December 24, 2021, 10:33:59 AM
not sure. When I bought the boat, 30 yrs ago, I had a new wiring harness put in since there was a fire issue about the original.
its time to test the solenoids, the starting motor, the glo plugs, the ground, all the connections, the 3 batteries  . the battery connections look good and tight.
Put in a dedicated start battery and rewire so the main bank is charged directly by the alternator. The original wire harness is just not robust.  To many connections, under wire size, and length.