traveler holes and spring pulpit block

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anaisdog

2 questions, does your traveler, from Guido (RIP) from Gaurhauer, does it slide all the way to the edges? I rebed mine (it's cabin top, i'm 1986 hull #99) and someone sailing my boat said the traveler should, well, travel, the whole length of the cabin top riser, but when I rebed it, I have 3 filled in screw holes, on each side, keeping the traveler from going all the way to the edge.  I don't race my boat but I can't see how water wouldn't get into the traveler /cabin top if the screws were out.  what am i missing?

secondly, the roller furler line on my harken drum was too tight against the inside/underside of the drum, and rubbing against the line.  I loosened it, which seemed to help the chafing but i was thinking of re-running it out of the drum to a spring loaded pulpit block (that I don't yet have), connected on the starboard pulpit.  anyone else done this before?   i want to lower (and control) the line coming out of the drum.

thanks

becki in detroit
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

KWKloeber

Becki

Pictures would really help.
I think most have a lead block relatively close close to their drum. I do. To where does the line lead?  Through what/where?

There should be pics around (installed) of the GhM traveler.  Isn't these a stop at either end, separate from any other thru bolts?  Picture of what bolts you have?  Not recessed flat heads?

-k
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

anaisdog

the lead line just goes straight down to a block on the deck, this would be a block to direct it to the pulpit then down

I'll take pictures of the traveler when i get back to the boat wed.  and yes, it's 3 recessed screws on each side.  maybe i just need to screw them farther down.

Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

KWKloeber

How far back is the deck block?  A stand-up block?
Is it a spinnaker pole downhaul block, perhaps, not placed correctly for the furling line?
It's typical to have the drum exit cocked toward the pulpit where there's a lead block, and the line runs aft  -  not facing directly along centerline. At least that's how I've seen most, not saying that's correct or incorrect on the C34.
I'm sure that I've seen pictures of the path on here from members asking about furler/drum questions.

I thought you raced?  Given up?
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

anaisdog

I don't have anything spinnaker except a halyard.  no pole, no sail. 

I do race, just not my own boat because I don't have all the hardware.  thanks
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Noah

I have a Profurl not Harken but this is how mine is lead.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

anaisdog

yeah i don't have that top block.  that's what i think i need but that looks a lot less expensive than a $100 spring block.  did you put that on yourself?  and thanks
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

Noah

1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

anaisdog

$20 is still 1/5 of a boat buck :-). thanks!
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club

KWKloeber

Noah.

Maybe an optical contusion?  You block looks higher than a perpendicular line drawn from the center of the drum?
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Noah

#10
Optical illusion. The pulpit block is square to center of drum. Next is a stanchion block that is at an approx. 10-15 degree angle lower, then two more stanchion blocks at deck level. All works well.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Ron Hill

Beckie : The furling line that leads into the drum should have the line feed in at a 90 degree angle to the drum!!!    You need to set that last bow block for the furling line to where the line feeds into the drum at that 90 degrees!!   That might be up like Noahs' or low like mine!! 

A few thoughts
Ron, Apache #788

KWKloeber

Quote from: Noah on September 06, 2021, 02:41:34 PM
Optical illusion. The pulpit block is square to center of drum. Next is a stanchion block that is at an approx. 10-15 degree angle lower, then two more stanchion blocks at deck level. All works well.

Gotcha. The angle of the dangle and height of the pulpit (compared to the drum) must be misleading. 
The top rail of my pulpit is pretty level and drum sits below the pointy end of it, so my lead block has to be down below the top rail (in order to be 90 to the forestay angle.)
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

Stu Jackson

#13
Here's mine.  I also ran the furling line through Johnson bullet blocks on the outside of the stanchions.

Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

anaisdog

Stu, i bought a spring loaded block and I'll put it on the pulpit like you have when i comes.

can i send you a picture of my traveler?  Ken K thought you had the same Nico Fico to see what the scoop is with the my screws sticking out, 3 on each side?  thanks
Hull #99, c34, 1986, Detroit Yacht Club