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Author Topic: Seacocks  (Read 1188 times)

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Holger Dieske

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Seacocks
« on: July 22, 2021, 10:40:17 AM »

Hello, My runaway is currently on the dry (but 1000miles far from me). I read that the material the seavalves/seacocks are made of is MARELON. Here they say that Marelon is almost indestructible. How do you do that with your "older" boats? Do you use such an opportunity to swap them or do you think that if everything looks good, it will still be okay?

Holger

edit: I also mean the breakthroughs through the Hull-
« Last Edit: July 22, 2021, 10:42:44 AM by Holger Dieske »
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I am from Germany and I use Google-Translator! (and a little bit my brian ;) )

C34 "RUNAWAY" Mark 1.5 - 1992 WK - Hull Nr. 1219 - Yanmar3GM30F - Flag: German - Boat stay in Mediterranean Sea.

Ron Hill

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #1 on: July 22, 2021, 02:33:44 PM »

Holger : I just keep the sea cocks greased (on BOTH sides) and I believe that they will remain "indestructible".  I use a water resistant grease every year!

A few thoughts
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Ron, Apache #788

Holger Dieske

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #2 on: July 24, 2021, 01:44:00 AM »

thx Ron.
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I am from Germany and I use Google-Translator! (and a little bit my brian ;) )

C34 "RUNAWAY" Mark 1.5 - 1992 WK - Hull Nr. 1219 - Yanmar3GM30F - Flag: German - Boat stay in Mediterranean Sea.

Jon W

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #3 on: July 24, 2021, 05:13:51 PM »

Are your Marelon seacocks flanged or are they more like a ball valve?
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Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca

Holger Dieske

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2021, 03:45:10 AM »

I am nor realy sure. The Boat ist 1000miles far from me and it is a new boat for me. I tgink, it ist the Standard, that Catalina in this Period (1992) build.
Is this importend for the decision?

Holger
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I am from Germany and I use Google-Translator! (and a little bit my brian ;) )

C34 "RUNAWAY" Mark 1.5 - 1992 WK - Hull Nr. 1219 - Yanmar3GM30F - Flag: German - Boat stay in Mediterranean Sea.

Ron Hill

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2021, 12:45:26 PM »

Holger : I'm sure that the 1992 C34 production was still using the black standard Forespar Marelon "Ball" valve that screwed into a marelon thru hull.
The 1/2" FORSP# 905100 and 3/4" FORSP# 905101 (NPS threads).

To check - Just look for the round blue and white Forespar tag on the handle (covering the screw).

A thought
« Last Edit: July 26, 2021, 02:10:47 PM by Ron Hill »
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jonathanc34

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2021, 08:24:46 AM »

All of the original ones in my 1988 do not have base flanges, only thread onto the thruhuls.

There are equivalents w base flanges that you can buy if you want to confirm to modern standards when doing replacements w backing plates.

All of my original marelon seacocks work as new.
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'Owenoke' 1988 C34 Hull 548 Tall/Wing M-25XP
Worton Creek Marina, MD

She'll make .5 past 6 knots. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts. (I've added some special modifications myself.)

MarcZ

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #7 on: July 27, 2021, 05:05:39 AM »

If you decide to replace what is in the boat take a look at Trudesign Seacocks  ( with load bearing collar). I personally find these much preferable to what Forespar is offering.
I have replaced every original seacock on my boat with Trudesign except  shower/head combo where I used Forespar 93.  After few seasons I can tell you my only Foresparr 93 will be replaced by Trudesign for sure.
As a added bonus Trudesign does not call for any lubrication.
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93 C34 Mk 1.5 #1258 TR WK M35
Upper Chesapeake

lazybone

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #8 on: July 27, 2021, 06:19:03 AM »

Forespar states they require no lubrication.

MAINTENANCE:FORESPARŽ MARELONŽThru-hull/seacocksarecorrosionfreeandpro- vide great peace of mind in that regard. They are relatively maintenance free. Generally, lubrication is not required. What is required is to open and close them on a regular basis (4 times a year minimum). The frequency this is required is determined by two (2) things, whether the valves are routinely kept open or closed, and the rate of sea growth (weed and barnacles) in your area. If the rate of fouling is high and the valves are not actuated regularly, this build up of growth can cause any valve to turn hard or not at all. If the valve becomes stiff due to lack of use and sea growth build-up, it must be cleaned. The restric- tion of flow into the valve may cause harm to the machinery it serves and the valve may seize if not maintained. DO NOT DISASSEMBLE VALVE OR LOOSEN BOLTS EXCEPT IN EXTREME EMERGENCIES. All valves are factory pressure tested before shipping. Any adjustments to the bolts will void this testing and may void warranties.
All MARELONŽ integrated valves have a removable plug in the handle (white cap with loop). This plug is made to fit into the external thru-hull (non-screened style only). In an emergency, this plug can be placed in the thru-hull (water pressure will keep it in) and the valve disassembled while the boat is in the water. Someone must get wet, but the boat does not need to be hauled for valve repairs. By tying a lanyard to the cap, you need only get wet once.
FORESPAR PRODUCTS CORP.
22322 GILBERTO, RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA, CA. 92688 PH-949-858-8820 FAX-949-858-0505 e-mail: sales
« Last Edit: July 27, 2021, 06:20:06 AM by lazybone »
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Ciao tutti


S/V LAZYBONES  #677

Jon W

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Re: Seacocks
« Reply #9 on: July 27, 2021, 02:40:32 PM »

The OEM ball valve type on my boat were mounted to the thru with no collar or other support. When I opened/closed them the torque caused the thru hull to flex slightly and I didn't care for that. When I bought the boat 5 years ago I replaced all of the OEM ball valves with flanged Marelon seacocks mounted to epoxy coated backing plates. Very solid, and low profile so low risk of any damage.

FWIW - there is a lubricant called Marelube. I use it annually to lube the top of the valve, and when I haul out for the water side of the valve.
« Last Edit: July 27, 2021, 02:44:43 PM by Jon W »
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Jon W.
s/v Della Jean
Hull #493, 1987 MK 1, M25XP, 35# Mantus, Std Rig
San Diego, Ca
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