Replacing cabin top winches

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

britinusa

While I'm waiting for the parts to arrive to work on the Thermostat housing, my new winches arrived.

The port side winch on the cabin top (Jib Halyard & Topping lift) is not self tailing and the admiral cannot handle tailing and winching at the same time. I purchased a new Lewmar 30 winch from west marine on their BOGO offer, so now I have two nice new winches.

The port winch replacement is easy, the bolt holes in the cabin roof match, the starboard winch is not so easy.
The hole pattern on the winch seem to match with the new winch base, but the holes were not drilled very well and some of the bolts are closer together at the underside of the cabin roof.

I could probably just accept that the hole spacing is irregular.

Alternatively I could drill out the irregular holes, do the old 'clean out, fill, redrill' process.

Considering that the stbd winch hoists the main halyard and the old winch has shown no problems due to the irregular hole spacing.

Any reason not to take the second choice (I know, fix it and go sailing - We're trying!)

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

KWKloeber

"One never gets a second chance to do a job right the first time."
Be sure not to over-size drill thru the top and bottom skins, just remove the core per Rod's great instructions on his marinehowto website.
Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

britinusa

Thanks Ken, I check Rod's site often, he has covered much of the stuff that I needed help with.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Stu Jackson

Perhaps when you remove the old one you could determine just why they are wonky and then decide?  While Ken & Rod are certainly right, your initial issue may not be a decision-maker.
Stu Jackson, C34 IA Secretary, #224 1986, "Aquavite"  Cowichan Bay, BC  Maple Bay Marina  SR/FK, M25, Rocna 10 (22#) (NZ model)

"There is no problem so great that it can't be solved."

Noah

I wouldn't get too concerned about drilling through the top skin when "potting" a hole through the deck—especially if using a backing plate. A Forstner bit works fine for drilling from above and gives a good visual clue when all of the plywood core has been removed and you reach the bottom skin.
1990 hull #1014, San Diego, CA,  Fin Keel,
Standard Rig

Ron Hill

Paul: I agree with Stu, remove the cabin top starboard winch and see why the factory drilled the hole pattern that is there.  Then decide what to do!!

A thought
Ron, Apache #788

britinusa

I removed the port winch.
All 5 screws are bent and only 3 of the 5 holes in the plinth line up with the new winch base.

I definitely have to drill pot re-drill the holes. Purchased 1.5" 316 Fender washers which should cover the underside exit of the old holes.
Waiting for a dry day (we're in soggy SoFla) to get that done.

Working on it.

Paul
Paul & Peggy
1987 C34 Tall Rig Fin Keel - Hull # 463

See you out on the water

Engine:M25XP

Jim Hardesty

QuotePurchased 1.5" 316 Fender washers which should cover the underside exit of the old holes.

Most of the fender washers I've bought recently are too thin and deform easy.  If that's the case with the ones you purchased, consider doubling or a full backing plate.
Just my 2 cents,
Jim
Jim Hardesty
2001 MKII hull #1570 M35BC  "Shamrock"
sailing Lake Erie
from Commodore Perry Yacht Club
Erie, PA