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Author Topic: smile repair  (Read 1770 times)

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KWKloeber

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Re: smile repair
« Reply #30 on: October 05, 2021, 11:05:53 AM »

If you’re looking to “sand” the epoxy/glass/resin on Sat w/ a D/A or R/O, think about picking up $15 HF 4-1/2” angle grinder and a couple different grade discs and save your shoulders.  Save “sanding” for medium density filler after you true up the surface of the glass with light touch passes of the angle grinder. It also provides an excellent grip surface to grab medium density fairing.

The process I usually use on flat surfaces is to apply resin, roll on the glass or carbon (which nicely adheres to the substrate,) roll on resin or “tip” in the glass with resin and a stiff brush. Only very occasionally will I saturate the glass then apply it (it tends to fall apart if handled anything more than minimally once wetted out.)

Ken

PS when I said “nose” I meant the whole bow (doesn’t benefit from adding glass, except to specifically band the joint.)
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain

mdidomenico

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Re: smile repair
« Reply #31 on: October 06, 2021, 05:17:19 AM »

If you’re looking to “sand” the epoxy/glass/resin on Sat w/ a D/A or R/O, think about picking up $15 HF 4-1/2” angle grinder and a couple different grade discs and save your shoulders.  Save “sanding” for medium density filler after you true up the surface of the glass with light touch passes of the angle grinder. It also provides an excellent grip surface to grab medium density fairing.

yup, got a whole box full.  i don't mess with elbow grease sanding resin anymore, learned that the hard way.  if the D/A w/ 40-grit doesnt make it come off easily, the flap wheels follow.

The process I usually use on flat surfaces is to apply resin, roll on the glass or carbon (which nicely adheres to the substrate,) roll on resin or “tip” in the glass with resin and a stiff brush. Only very occasionally will I saturate the glass then apply it (it tends to fall apart if handled anything more than minimally once wetted out.)

yeah i tried wetting the glass first and then laying on the keel.  bad idea, my skills aren't at that level.  i wasted a big stretch of glass and bunch of resin

PS when I said “nose” I meant the whole bow (doesn’t benefit from adding glass, except to specifically band the joint.)

oh.  yeah you're probably right.  i'd thought about just using strips as well.  the excess glass in this case just made it easier for me because it's a vertical surface.  i'm sure it's wasteful and costly, but making it easier, even at a higher expense, meant i could actually get it done.  nothing more then that

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mdidomenico

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Re: smile repair
« Reply #32 on: Today at 01:34:35 PM »

it looks like the epoxy shrank a bit during the cure, what looked pretty flat a week ago, now has a little ripple.  and since i happen to have a can of 407 left over from another project we'll add a layer of fairing.  whether i add a second coat or not will depend on how my ocd is that day.  there's a divet on the port side that's a little deeper then i thought it would turn out, but otherwise things aren't that out of whack.  it's getting colder here, so i need to wrap this up

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1989 Cat34 #856, original m-25xp

KWKloeber

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Re: smile repair
« Reply #33 on: Today at 01:43:36 PM »

Maybe you’re aware already but make sure to remove all blush b4 overcoating.
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Twenty years from now you'll be more disappointed by the things you didn't do, than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor.  Catch the tradewinds in your sails.
Explore.  Dream.  Discover.   -Mark Twain
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