Confused by bilge pump wiring

[Sailing Amok]

Thanks guys. I wanted an idea of what to purchase before opening up the piece of tubing, so that I'd be ready to go once starting the process of exposing things. The tube is sealed with silicone, I had just pulled the silicone out of the one side so I could see what is in there. It actually looks like the tube is filled with silicone, not just at the ends, so it may be difficult to remove, I'll find out once I'm ready to go. I guess worst case scenario I cut the tube along its length.

Use your multimeter to verify what's POS and NEG in the batty box, despite the color mismatch.
Switch the caps!

So, to verify the POS and Neg in the battery box would I just disconnect shore power, and put one lead from the multimeter on one side, and the other lead on the other, and see if I have a + or - number on the multimeter? If I'm way off on my assumption of what is what in there, would that be a potentially risky manoeuvre?
As a side note, with all the jumble of wire in there, it seems a good off season project this fall would be shortening all the wires so they are just long enough to make all their connections. Any reason not to?

[Stu Jackson]

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Use your multimeter to verify what's POS and NEG in the batty box, despite the color mismatch.
Switch the caps!

So, to verify the POS and Neg in the battery box would I just disconnect shore power, and put one lead from the multimeter on one side, and the other lead on the other, and see if I have a + or - number on the multimeter?

1.  If I'm way off on my assumption of what is what in there, would that be a potentially risky manoeuvre?


2.  As a side note, with all the jumble of wire in there, it seems a good off season project this fall would be shortening all the wires so they are just long enough to make all their connections. Any reason not to?

1.  Please stop making assumptions about wiring.

2.  Why?  Until you actually learn what each and every wire is, this is not worth even considering.

I have been following this conversation since it began.  Ken has tried to be helpful and, I believe has gone above and beyond in doing so.  I very early on suggested that you follow the instructions in the manual for your switch, have seen no evidence that's occurred although you seem to be more comfortable with the switch wiring and are confused about how the boat itself is wired.

I am concerned for your safety.

None of us was born a boat electrician, we all had to learn.

You need to learn how to use a multimeter (betcha YouTube has tons of those).  You need to learn how to draw a wiring diagram of what you have on your boat (just because the PO didn't give you one is no excuse - it will just take you longer to do one).  You need to learn to understand basic electrical circuits.

Interestingly enough, this very forum has a ton of information to help you do just those things.  It's in a sticky: 
Electrical Systems 101   http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html


I strongly urge you to do some studying before you start just messing around and making assumptions, unless I am seriously misunderstanding what you yourself have actually written in this thread.  It's for your own safety.  Take the time to learn to do it right, please.

[KWKloeber]

But you should verify and document it.  You'll need it someday.

Use your multimeter to verify what's POS and NEG in the batty box

Here's the standard caveat/warning - if you are not comfortable working on or don't yet understand DC electrical systems, get help.  It could be a dock mate who knows what's going on, or a text, or a class, or....

You don't even need a meter, a 12v test light will verify what's NEG or POS.  Hell in a pinch I've used a bulb and one length of wire (oftentimes wishing I had longer arms when working alone.)

You might fit a #10 and a #16 into one end of a yellow crimp terminal -- I'll hafta check on that tomorrow. 

Nope, cannot squeeze a #10 and #16 into a yellow butt.  You'll need a #8 x #10 step-down butt for the new switch NEG (or pick up the NEG elsewhere.)  What crimp tool do you have -- #8 will take an uncommon size (and a different type for an insulated vs. uninsulated butt.)   It would be wise to use additional adhesive where two wires exit heat shrink and also at the 2-wire end if you AHST over the whole shebang.  (Hopefully you can also encase them back into and seal the tubing?)

Sounds like PO did an excellent job moistureproofing the connections - it's a shame they need to come apart.

[Ron Hill]

Aaron : I suggest that you learn how to use your multi meter, before your wiring matches your posts name - AMOK  !!   

A thought

[Jon W]

For clarity my earlier reply was to answer the question how do I splice 10AWG to 16AWG.

[KWKloeber]

For clarity my earlier reply was to answer the question how do I splice 10AWG to 16AWG.

Jon - Just FYI those step-down butts are also available in a crimp/self-solder type (belt/suspenders) made by NSPA (unfortunately not in #8 to yellow.)

Aaron - Point of technique - I'm unsure if there's any nearby spot to do this near the pump on the 34, but here's a way to install a moisture-tight term strip: https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical  (under items of interest)

BTW, (as you asked about) it's good to leave "neat looking" slack, not clip everything as tight I could.   But not leave a jungle.  That way if you have to re-do a terminal end or something else you have at least a 50-50 chance of no having to re-run the entire cable or cobb on an extension.

[Sailing Amok]

I have been following this conversation since it began.  Ken has tried to be helpful and, I believe has gone above and beyond in doing so.  I very early on suggested that you follow the instructions in the manual for your switch, have seen no evidence that's occurred although you seem to be more comfortable with the switch wiring and are confused about how the boat itself is wired.

Stu, I agree with you completely, Ken has gone well above and beyond, and I hope I have not come off as ungrateful. His advice has given me ideas of where to look on the boat, and what to read up on. As has been pointed out the internet is full of information, but you sort of need to know where to start and I've taken all the advice in this thread as starting points for a whole lot of Youtube watching and Calder reading this week. Also, I did not disregard your advice on the instructions for the switch. Unfortunately the instructions that came with it, as well as the additional resources on the manufacturer's website represent a system which does not, on the surface at least, represent ours. Much of my initial confusion was related to this being a powered switch and our old switch being unpowered.
With regards to my comment about cleaning up the wiring during the off season, I was considering that as an opportunity to not only make the system more tidy, but also as a chance for me to go through and determine what each and every wire is, label them, etc.

Aaron - Point of technique - I'm unsure if there's any nearby spot to do this near the pump on the 34, but here's a way to install a moisture-tight term strip: https://c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Electrical  (under items of interest)

BTW, (as you asked about) it's good to leave "neat looking" slack, not clip everything as tight I could.   But not leave a jungle.  That way if you have to re-do a terminal end or something else you have at least a 50-50 chance of no having to re-run the entire cable or cobb on an extension.

Thanks Ken, that looks like a great idea, I prefer the idea of a strip, as it seems like bilge pumps and switches fail frequently, and need to be replaced. That would make it very easy. Thanks for the advice on leaving slack, that makes sense. I'm pretty surprised by just how much excess wire there is in some places, given how detail oriented the previous owner was, and how good his workmanship was overall. I'm likely missing something, and he had a good reason for doing things the way he did.

Anyway, thanks again, I'm eagerly waiting for my parts to arrive so I can get this job done!