Electrical Connections under Pedestal

[pbyrne]

I noticed a leak in the aft berth that has required the recovering of the aft berth mattresses.

It looks like the seal around the pedestal to cockpit floor that allows the wiring to the instruments to pass thru is leaking.

Is there another area to rebed other than this connection?

Also can someone recommend an approach to clean the connectors?  They rusted due to the (fresh) water, however all the instruments and VHF are working.

[Ron Hill]

pby : Here is what I would try:

1. Soak the open connectors that are fresh water corroded  in "Lime-a-way" for about 15-20 minutes  That should dissolve any corrosion - then flush with fresh water.
2. Dry the connectors and then spray them with Radio Shack "Tuner Cleaner"    Then reconnect.
3. Reconnected - then spray that connection with "BOSHIELD T-7" waterproofer  This should seal the outside of the connection.  You then should be "good to go"

Hope you seal around the pedestal base and stop the leaking!!  Good luck!

A few thoughts.

[Admiral_Swellson]

Those connectors are definitely not marine grade and IMHO should probably just be cut away.
The use marine grade heat shrink butt connectors. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GB2JWVT/

[pbyrne]

Hmm.  There is nothing 'non-marine' in the pedestal.  Only the Tridata ST 60+ instruments, Autohelm, VHF remote, and Chartplotter.  While I'm not sure which one is which, I'm confident that is the OEM cabling for those devices.

I'll have to figure out what's going on with the cables...

Those connectors are definitely not marine grade and IMHO should probably just be cut away.
The use marine grade heat shrink butt connectors. Like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GB2JWVT/

[MarcZ]

These connectors look a lot like standard DB9 -easy to find

I would consider DT series connectors instead or even a terminal block

[ewengstrom]

Not sure if you have a pedestal guard on your boat but if you're resealing the pedestal I wouldn't ignore those thru the deck penetrations. From what I've learned they can leak as well and often the leak looks like it's coming from the pedestal when the water is actually coming thru those pedestal guard bases.

[pbyrne]

The cockpit holes were what was leaking, not the pedestal.  The pedestal has a raised baseplate, and I hope it doesn't leak!!

Completed work photos attached.  Still need to clean up the extra.

Not sure if you have a pedestal guard on your boat but if you're resealing the pedestal I wouldn't ignore those thru the deck penetrations. From what I've learned they can leak as well and often the leak looks like it's coming from the pedestal when the water is actually coming thru those pedestal guard bases.

[waughoo]

I have to do this same repair.  Is that butyl you used?

[pbyrne]

Yes it is.  I got it from here:  https://www.marineoutfitters.ca/index.cfm?category=10427%7C11795&product=54069231&code=BIBT

I believe it is also available directly.  The name is 'Bed It butyl tape'.  https://shop.marinehowto.com/products/bed-it-tape

It was actually fun to use.   

I would read https://marinehowto.com/bed-it-tape/ on the correct approach.  I was unable to counter sink the holes, because the holes are huge and probably only an oil drilling rig has a bit that size, and the wires for the pedestal also run through the guard. 

That being said I plugged the hole with butyl, and after the guard was placed on the deck again covering the holes, I added about a 1/4" around the tubing at the deck level, so that when the plate comes down it sealed the tube to plate gap.  Hopefully that makes sense!  Sorry I didn't take photos as I was under the gun weather wise.

Also, the how to mentions to repeat tightening over time as it will compress out slowly.  This is true.  I tightened 3 times over 30 minutes until I got no movement from the screws.

NOTE: They are screws not bolts so don't over torque. I used cordless drill and set the clutch on 3 and worked my way up until I was getting reasonable torque.  It wouldn't take much to strip the hole.

NOTE NOTE: For me I had 4 screws, port and starboard, from the other side (under cockpit area, where steering quadrant is) of the aft berth wood panel holding the panel on.  I had to reach through and blindly unscrew them.  The bottom 3-4 screws on the inside of the aft berth were not the only screws holding it in place. 

Took me a while to figure this out!

I have to do this same repair.  Is that butyl you used?

[Stu Jackson]

Nice job, pb. 

We've suggested Bed-It often.  I use it on my chainplates, too, and there's a link with pictures in the 101 Topic thread.  I no longer use silicone on my boat EXCEPT for the Beckson portlights.

I haven't checked, but please be aware that not all butyl tape is the same, and Maine Sail's is superior to many others, he did the research and homework to get "The Right Stuff."

[pbyrne]

Thanks!

I have 5 more chainplates and the all stantions to do.  I find Bed It easier to work with than 3M.

I'm actually looking forward to do it in a way!

Nice job, pb. 

We've suggested Bed-It often.  I use it on my chainplates, too, and there's a link with pictures in the 101 Topic thread.  I no longer use silicone on my boat EXCEPT for the Beckson portlights.

I haven't checked, but please be aware that not all butyl tape is the same, and Maine Sail's is superior to many others, he did the research and homework to get "The Right Stuff."

[Jon W]

PB if you rebed the stantions consider adding backing plates. If the MK2 is like the MK1, the lifeline stantions only had small washers on the inside. I bought backing plates from Catalina Direct. There may be better pricing if you have the time to research.

[ChrisOB]

I agree with the backing plates, but if you are going to drill and fill the holes with epoxy, the new holes you drill need to be perfect angles. I have a whole box of stanchion bases from Garhauer I was going to use as backing plates, but getting all 4 holes in the plate to line up was hard for me. I ended up just using larger diameter washers.