engine mounts one more time

[Noah]

Whoa! I thought you said the nut was spinning?!?!    Ok, never mind... crisis averted.

[WBev]

Definitely use some thread locker when you install.  Take your time.  When done, use bright nail polish to mark the nut line to the mount, top and bottom if you can. Use this mark to verify no loosening is taking place.  I check every once in a while, and use a dental mirror for the bottom mark check. 

[Ron Hill]

Guys : As mentioned - always make a red or white slippage mark from a nut to the stationary base.  I always keep 2 bottles of fingernail polish on board (white and red) just for that purpose.

When that strip is broken you've got a problem to be retightened !!  Especially GREAT for engine mount nuts!!!

A few thoughts.

[tvorgitch]

Whoa! I thought you said the nut was spinning?!?!    Ok, never mind... crisis averted.

Noah, I should have been more clear. On the K75s the nut would spin so I had to hold it with vice grips and I needed a fair amount of solvent to break down the thread locker, but once I got the bolt out it was clear that the nut would stay attached.

Even though the K100's appeared to be the same design, the nut did not spin. I was able to clamp the mount in a vice and use a breaker bar to remove the bolt.

Looks like I need to pick up some thread locker and nail polish!

[tvorgitch]

I installed the new mounts yesterday and they are a dramatic improvement.

Only the rear port mount was much of a challenge. When reassembling the rear mounts, there was not enough space to add the adjustment nut, lock nut a washer individually. On the starboard side I could use both hands to install them together but on the port side I ended up taping them together since I could not hold them. I had to do it again, I might try superglue.

To maintain the alignment, I made a fixture gauge from a coupling nut and bolt as I found it very difficult to get a good measurement with calipers. I also made a stubby 15/16 wrench and an open box wrench, both of which proved to be invaluable.

When doing the front mounts, the engine did not appear to move at all, but the rear mount required some adjustment to get my gauge to fit.

In slow motion I can still see a little movement at 2500 RPM, so when I have an assistant available I may try and make some additional adjustments, but overall it's a great improvement.

Thanks again for all the help.

[Ron Hill]

Tom : You can't get a centering gauge in there so what I do is take a sharpened #2 pencil and a block of wood. then tape the block to the hull and then tape the pencil to the top of the block with the tip just touching the drive shaft. The slowly turn the drive shaft by hand and you'll see if the tip stays touching or not!!

A thought